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Joined: Mar 2005
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Natural gas Lennox....

Receiving call for heat.
Inducer fan kicks on.
Ignitor glows orange.
No gas being released.
Measured 27 volts off wires to gas valve once ignitor glows...

Safe to say bad gas valve assembly?

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Do you hear a click from the pressure switch to it let the gas flow?

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Yeah, I hear a click, then get voltage on two wires that go to valve. I thought it could be pressure switch, but wouldn't there be no voltage if so?

I put meter on pressure switch set to ohms. Shows open, then once inducer kicks on the circuit closes. I believe that is correct?

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How old is the furnace? So far I agree with you on the gas valve. I had one that went bad about 8yrs ago that was 20yrs old. I replaced it with a heat pump and have a propane stove for backup.


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Sounds like thats not the problem then. The pressure system always seems to be the issue on either our furnaces or the ones in my rental units. I'll have to defer to the experts then. Good luck, Dave

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Gas valve or gas pressure, you should be getting an error code on the circuit board.

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on my American standard I'm pretty sure if my pressure valve isn't working, the ignitor doesn't even come on.

About every 3 years I have to screw around with and clean out the lines. This year I had rice weevils in it of all things


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Andy Anders's furnace troubleshooting was actual shooting. The trouble was the skunk lurking behind the furnace in the basement. Andy's solution was to blow the skunk away with his shotgun. The wife and kids moved into town with her folks for a month or so.


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The furnace is 15 years old. I was trying to figure out the error code, but there was no key on the inside panel. I normally have two green lights that blink slowly simultaneously when all is good. Now they just blink alternately.

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Can you ohm the coil on the gas valve? It should show resistance. If 24-27V are applied the coil should open the valve, which you should hear/feel.

Could be a bad valve or could be a bad spot on the board.


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I'll try that. Thanks. I'm getting 27v to the valve, not sure what happens after.

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Stupid question. Is your gas shut off either at the furnace or meter?


Yours in Liberty,

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As has been said, replace the gas valve. They are pretty cheap and easy to replace.


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What has stopped my furnace more than once is that the condensation line is blocked and the furnace won't turn on. It might not be the OP's issue, but certainly a common enough issue that we all should be aware of it and blow that line out. Another easy fix is replacing the AA battery in the thermostat.


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Buddy just had to change the pressure switch on his fan.

That cured it.


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[spoiler][/spoiler]Mine was intermittent. Open limit code. Finally was constant. Pressure switch changed and no go. Ended up yanking the board and could see a hot spot.
Changed board $300 and its zoomin.

Amana, old one but should be good a while now

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Tap the gas valve with a hammer while the coil is energized. If the valve opens moisture in the gas screwed up the valve, valve will need to be R&R.

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Originally Posted by Dave_in_WV


So according to your description:

Watch guard – burner failed to ignite or lost flame 5 times during single heating demand


I'd say the valve or low gas pressure, could have condensation in the line that froze.

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Originally Posted by Bwana_1
Originally Posted by Dave_in_WV


So according to your description:

Watch guard – burner failed to ignite or lost flame 5 times during single heating demand


I'd say the valve or low gas pressure, could have condensation in the line that froze.


yep. that makes sense. I don't believe there is condensation in the line, I have a drip leg before the furnace. Also, my garage is heated, so doubtful it could freeze. The hot water tank is right next to it, and working fine.

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