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Campfire Outfitter
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Originally Posted by jimmy3
DBC……?

Dyna Bore Coat.

GB1

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I use Hoppes 9 for the powder and Sweets for the copper. I set a 15 minute alarm on the oven and never leave the Sweets in longer than that. I work a nylon brush through the bore with several applications of Sweets getting it nice and frothy, leave for 15 mins then 12-15 passes with the nylon brush and patch out, then two patches of Hoppes again to remove all traces of Sweets, patch out and a final patch of oil. Usually the one 15 minute soak with Sweets is enough to remove the visible copper at the muzzle (12 to 15 shots) but sometimes a second 15 minute soak is required if I've fired 25 to 30 rounds. I dunno whether this gets all the copper from the whole barrel but occasionally I run another patch with Sweets and leave it in for 5-10 minutes and see if any 'blue' appears on a patch and it seldom does.

Last edited by Elvis; 12/10/21.
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I'm a big fan of Ed's Red. It's a DIY. The basic recipe is here:

http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm

Normally, I go light on the acetone, but add extra back in if I'm dealing with plastic residue in a shotgun barrel.

My preferred way to clean is to put a drenched patch down the barrel and then let it sit, the longer the better. After that, I just need to slide a couple of patches down and it all comes clean.

Most of my well-used rifles also have DBC in them as well.


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After getting a barrel clean I use colloidal graphite in the barrel, something Greg Tannel recommends. After cleaning a barrel a few times, then using the colloidal graphite, copper fouling is almost nonexistent.
Lock Ease will work since it is colloidal graphite.

Last edited by K22; 12/11/21.
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Originally Posted by SheriffJoe



Many shooters, out of ignorance, over clean their firearms.


A more accurate statement would have been many shooters out of ignorance and lack of proper tools under clean their firearms.

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Originally Posted by LFC
Originally Posted by SheriffJoe



Many shooters, out of ignorance, over clean their firearms.


A more accurate statement would have been many shooters out of ignorance and lack of proper tools under clean their firearms.





A MORE accurate statement would have been: "Many shooters attempt to increase their bore diameter by cleaning the [bleep] out of their firearms instead of mostly removing the carbon fouling."

Firearm metallurgy. Study up.


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I used Hoppe’s for years. Tried Sweet’s. Tried Butch’ Bore Shine and liked it. Went to Shooter’s Choice and liked it a bit better. Then went to Boretech Eliminator and was sold on it. Added Boretech’s carbon remover to my routine and it’s very effective. I’m now a Boretech guy.

The best thing about Hoppe’s is the smell. It doesn’t clean that well in my opinion.

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Why don't you show us your cleaning tools and explain to us how you do it Sheriff Joe

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Why?

Are you deliberately stupid or just stupid??


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No I'm not the stupid one I clean my rifles without changing bores sizes.

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Originally Posted by 603Country
I used Hoppe’s for years. Tried Sweet’s. Tried Butch’ Bore Shine and liked it. Went to Shooter’s Choice and liked it a bit better. Then went to Boretech Eliminator and was sold on it. Added Boretech’s carbon remover to my routine and it’s very effective. I’m now a Boretech guy.

The best thing about Hoppe’s is the smell. It doesn’t clean that well in my opinion.



Same here with the bore tech. I use the C4 carbon remover 90% of the time and it does a really good job with very little effort. When I want to remover copper I use the Eliminator and it is quite effortless as well and does an awesome job.

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Originally Posted by K22
Tactical Advantage which is made by Wipe Out.


Hands down the best general purpose firearms cleaner ever produced.


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer


One type of solvent I do NOT use anymore is water-based ammonia. These definitely can etch bores if left inside a bore even a little too long. This info has been around for at least a couple decades, but too many rifle shooters base their opinion of the effectiveness of solvents on whether they can see copper streaks inside the muzzle.


John, if I may exploit my ignorance, how do you tell if a cleaner is a water-based ammonia?
Thank you in advance


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Originally Posted by JimHnSTL
Originally Posted by Mule Deer


One type of solvent I do NOT use anymore is water-based ammonia. These definitely can etch bores if left inside a bore even a little too long. This info has been around for at least a couple decades, but too many rifle shooters base their opinion of the effectiveness of solvents on whether they can see copper streaks inside the muzzle.


John, if I may exploit my ignorance, how do you tell if a cleaner is a water-based ammonia?
Thank you in advance

If the smell makes you nauseous, it's ammonia based.


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The water based part was the real question.

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I am always guilty of undercleaning rifles, and often guilty of overthinking issues.

Will the various copper cleaners also eat up your brass cleaning jags and bronze brushes?


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Originally Posted by mathman
The water based part was the real question.

That


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Originally Posted by JimHnSTL
Originally Posted by mathman
The water based part was the real question.

That



From what I understand from various folks involved the bore-cleaner biz, straight ammonia is never used. It's always either cut with water, or used in an oil-based solvent.


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Originally Posted by johnw
I am always guilty of undercleaning rifles, and often guilty of overthinking issues.

Will the various copper cleaners also eat up your brass cleaning jags and bronze brushes?




Some can and will give you indicators of blue from the copper which actually are caused by reacting to the brass/bronze of the jags/brushes.


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