Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Talley Lightweights vs Steel Rings

I just finished having my one-rifle-for-everything built. Brown stock, Hart barrel, classic model 70 action. I’m topping it with a 3-12x42 S&B. I’ve used a lot of Talley lightweights in the past but considering the Talley steel rings and bases for any added durability and option to carry a lightweight (leupy 2x) scope as a backup on fly in hunts.

What’s the final opinion on the two options. Weight for each setup? Durability with the lightweight? (I’ve seen a few photos of the lightweights cracked, but I’m thinking that’s probably pretty rare)

The heavier the scope, the larger the scope, and the heavier the recoil, the harder it is on rings and mounts (especially the rings). A 12 oz scope, no problem. A 20 oz scope, maybe.

Obviously aluminum doesn’t have as many stress cycles in its lifespan. But aluminum rings have been used successfully for a long time.

I've used Talley lightweights without problem on two New Ultra Light Arms rifles (.308 and 7x61 S&H) for a good while without problems. Both rifles have been fired considerably with the 7x61 on its third barrel. However, these guns each have light Leupold scopes, a 6x36 on the .308 and a 2.5x-8x on the 7x61.

Whats a couple ounces among friends.

I want my beer cans made from aluminum and my scope rings made from steel.

All my high powdered rifles have Tally Screw Lock Detachable steel rings.

I have a Sako .243 win. set up with two different scopes and two different loads.

A 4-12/AO Leupold and a S&B 1.5-6×42...

Try that stunt with your beer can rings.

If you're considering a setup for a spare scope (smart idea), the Talley QD's are what I'd choose. They are available for either the Talley-specific bases or for the Picatinny-spec (not Weaver spec) bases or rail. The ones I've worked with came off and went back on within 1/4" of the previous 100 yd. zero.

Leupold's Back Country series of one piece scope rings are good ones, as are the Talley LW's after some tweaks.

Good shootin'. -Al

AL my set up seems perfect enough for Government work.

A lot of it has to do with how you hold your mouth when you swap them out....

I hold them forward and use a torque wrench set on 30 inch pounds per Tally instructions.

Any heavy scope that goes on a heavy kicking rifle gets Talley Steels. The regular ones are fine but the Screw Lock Detachable (which is a really confusing name) are bomber.

I use Talley's but only the steel screw locks. I don't like nothing about the light-weights.

Phil

I didn't know about them before I came on here.

I have a few rifles with Talley LW's and a few with Screw Lock Detachable steel Talley mounts. I like each for their intended purpose.

If you are counting every single ounce on a flyweight backpacking rifle, I think it would be difficult to argue against the Talley Lightweight mounts. If you want a stout mount and the ability to detach / re-attach with near perfect return to zero...then the detachable screw locks are probably your best bet. The difference between the LW and Steel setups is only about 3.2 ounces. Up to you how important those ounces are.

2.5oz for a pair of Talley LW 30mm Low mounts
5.7oz for a pair of Talley Screw Lock Steel 30mm Low rings and signature bases

Those weights are for rings / bases I have on hand for a Win M70.

A 0 MOA Pic Rail gives you a lot of options too. A Leupold Backcountry Pic rail for a Win M70 only weighs 1.9 ounces (other models / brands are probably close). The only compatible rings I have on hand are SWFA 6 screw rings that weight 2.6oz each. These are chunky and lighter models are available. That rail with lighter rings will probably get you close to or under the total weight for Talley screw lock detachable rings and bases. Just another way to skin the cat and something you could ponder on.

One thing to consider with the Talley options...action tolerances for the base mounting holes and planes can play a major factor in how well the detachable mounts work. If the screw holes or bridges are out of alignment, you can really tweak your scope once you crank everything down. The lightweights do respond fairly well to lapping when some misalignment is present. Talley is adamant against lapping their vertical split rings though.

If your action has some misalignment, a pic rail has some advantage since it is much easier to do a stress-free bed and maintain an aligned scope mounting surface which will pay dividends when mounting, removing and reattaching scopes and maintaining zero (if that is your plan).

Like War Eagle above, I have both depending on the application. For a traveling rifle the QD's are the only way to go if you plan on bringing an extra scope. The weight difference isn't going to make or break a hunt, a scope going belly up might tho.

Another pitch here for the Talley screw lock detachable (same rings/bases as those with levers, just a Torx screw on each ring instead of a lever). I have used them with no complaint for many years, including a backcountry DIY Alaska hunt with one rifle, two scopes, both pre-zeroed as insurance. My own tests have shown they return to zero almost perfectly, as Al mentions above.

I will accept the weight penalty for absolute reliability.

I have scopes mounted in Talley QD and Warne QD rings. I appreciate the look and "elegance" of the Talleys, and I'm sure they are robust enough. But my personal opinion is that the Warnes are better QD rings, for a few of reasons. First, Warnes are coated, versus finished steel for the Talleys. I think the Warnes would have better corrosion resistance as a result. Second is that Warnes fit standard weaver type bases, which would open you up to more options for rings without having to change out your bases (unelss you got Talleys that fit Weaver bases, if they make them). Third is that position of the lever on Warnes can be adjusted after they are tightened down. On the Talleys, if you use the lever, it has to be adjusted and timed to end up in the position you want them. That's a pain in the ass.

The Talleys come with a screw lock option so you don't have to use the levers if you want. Mine are on rifles without sights so this is the option I go with.