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I don't know if I've ever posted here before but I sure have read a bunch over the years.

Anyway, I have a mess of SR mausers that I want to modify the rails to reliably feed .308 class cartridges. Right off, please save the SR mauser action safety warning because all are in (to me) the safe zone like 1910 Mexicans, '96 Hasqvarnas (1943), and some '96 CG Swedes that are sound with no setback. What I'd really like is if someone has figured out the correct geometry to do the work in a mill in a repeatable fashion. I already hashed a junk '93 Turk that was converted to 8x57 by an arsenal. I thought I had it made in that the Turk had obviously been opened up and therefore would be easy-peasy. NOT! It works with a '96 follower but the carts often teeter down at the stern and won't pick up. Getting the carts to line up correctly to the chamber is a work in progress that's getting better, slowly. On another forum, a spacer aft was recommended which makes sense and is next.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. My googling hasn't found much other than "Take a chop saw to your SR mauser - NOW! - before you end up with a bolt planted in your medulla."

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Yesterday I made an ammo spacer for a 1903 Turk to feed with a Parker hale 3.34" long magazine.

[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

drill and tap 6-40 to make ammo spacer for feeding from 3.34" magazine into 3.23" receiver


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Take a chop saw to your SR mauser - NOW! - before you end up with a bolt planted in your Nutella.

It would depend on the actual receiver. The various models and more importantly the chamberings had different rails.

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Got a buddy here back in 1991 that passed a few years ago he had a custom jgs 6.5 X284 reamer that just cut body and shoulder , he built a few swedes using that and they were pretty damn accurate using original swede barrels. Don`t know what he did to get em to feed though. But he talked to norma alot at the time of his projects. He also ran strain guage tests on the barrels ,I think it gave norma the idea for their round.

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I spent some time studying and came up with this plan which worked quite well. First off, I was able to get seven 1916's, three 1910's, and three '95 Cilreans to function by just putting a 1/4" block aft in the magazine. BUT, not all would load five rounds and the action had to be rapidly (and I mean rapidly) worked with much scaring of the hulls and fish hooks on the rims as a result. Using a cartridge case as an angle guide by putting it against the vice then a 1-2-3 block against the case and then squaring that to the table was my milling setup. I tilted the mill head to the angle the same as Mr. Mauser did for the angle inside the rails. With a 1/4" ball nose mill in 5-6 passes from stem to stern, I open the rails up to the case angle. I did NOT open the stock slot out of which the carts feed out. After dressing the new lips, it worked great fast or at-the-bench slow. Carts pop properly into the extractor. The stock follower got a little dressing of the rail (the top angle softened with a flap wheel) and shortened as much as possible while still preserving the spring retention lips. For some reason I haven't figured out yet, a round bottom 95 bolt is stickier. I made a short dummy barrel out of aluminum bar stock and chambered it in .308. Now on to a '96....

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Sounds like some of you are confusing the early pre 98 model Mausers with the later Small Ring model 98 Mausers.


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Originally Posted by LFC
Sounds like some of you are confusing the early pre 98 model Mausers with the later Small Ring model 98 Mausers.



LFC, I have no idea what you mean by your comment. Please elaborate. I specifically explained what actions I'm working with unless you are confused by the dates I gave? The only 98's I'm working on are 1910 Mexican's that have the same profiles of feed as does the 93/16, or a 95.

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Originally Posted by aaron10
Got a buddy here back in 1991 that passed a few years ago he had a custom jgs 6.5 X284 reamer that just cut body and shoulder , he built a few swedes using that and they were pretty damn accurate using original swede barrels. Don`t know what he did to get em to feed though. But he talked to norma alot at the time of his projects. He also ran strain guage tests on the barrels ,I think it gave norma the idea for their round.


Howdy neighbor, I reside in Homer. Quite the winter, no?

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Yes this winter sucks bad this year .

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You mentioned a "95 Chilean" that is not a 98 small ring action....the pre 98's like the 91s the 95s etc were not designed to handle the pressure of more modern rounds like the .308 win.

The pre model 98 actions are push cockers and cock on closing....the model 98 action cocks on opening and were light years ahead of the earlier models.
The only small ring 98 I ever came across in my Mauser days was a 1939 Chec 7x57 full stocked sporter.


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Originally Posted by LFC
You mentioned a "95 Chilean" that is not a 98 small ring action....the pre 98's like the 91s the 95s etc were not designed to handle the pressure of more modern rounds like the .308 win.

The pre model 98 actions are push cockers and cock on closing....the model 98 action cocks on opening and were light years ahead of the earlier models.
The only small ring 98 I ever came across in my Mauser days was a 1939 Chec 7x57 full stocked sporter.




Google, 1910 Mexican mauser:


https://www.google.com/search?q=191...AEQBA&biw=1600&bih=757&dpr=1


Obviously, you didn't read what else I mentioned in my post....and I still really don't get what you are trying to get at as it has absolutely nothing to do with what I'm after.

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Didn't Kimber sell a boat load of 96's Sweds in 308? Wonder how they got it to feed



https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/kimber-m96-308-win-swedish-mauser-kimber-oregon.368209/

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richj, thanks for that link. I especially liked the last post about Kimber. For years there was a guy on Gun Broker that was selling everything that was left of Kimber and the 96's. I bought several actions from him over time (he was pretty proud of them) and in the end, bought his last 13 actions. Some were junk with setback one having .009' and all of them were raped; bridges belt sanded by eye, some horrifically, misaligned base holes, and such. The reason for my query is now that I'm retired I'm doing what I can to make them usable and some of them will be barreled to the .308 family as two of them are 1943 Husqvarna's and several CG's that have no setback. I also have three 1910 Mexican's not to mention a couple of nice 95's. I've spread this message across several forums with the usual blap about how unsafe this is to do (does that guy slamfire live here?) and virtually nothing useful otherwise. It would be ducks if someone popped up with some info about Kimber's and modified 93-95's for the CETME round and how the feed was managed. This is my current jones so I'm looking all the time for information and I found on fleaBay a guard that was advertised as for a 93-.308. The pics were bad but it looks like they blew out the magazine box about two-thirds forward from aft and also had a spacer forward that looks like incorporates a guide. This is the opposite of what I did. What I did is very satisfactory but I'm all in for whatever works. I took a mothy guard and tried to duplicate this (what I thought I saw anyway) with no success. I feel good about what I did with the 93-94-95-1910 (my measuring says they are the same in the bottom-up geometry of the action) feed situation and now it's on to the 96's.


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