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OP
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I've got a stainless Classic in .375 HH and I've got a short tubed scope (Nightforce SHV 3-10) I'd like to mount on it. Will necessitate using a rail. I've never put a rail on any M70 before. Frankly I don't like the idea, but it's the only way to make this scope work, I think. Any real-world functional issues with a pic rail blocking the ejection port?
Last edited by SDHNTR; 01/20/22.
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I have the same rifle with a Leupold VX-3 2.5 x 8 mounted in Talley QR bases and rings no rail. Not much room for any eye relief adjustment but just by chance it works out perfectly for me. Your scope probably has a longer tube so the Talley mounts may work well for you also. Killed a brown bear with it in 2010..
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The Nightforce has a mounting length of 5.1" vs a Leupold 2.5-8 at 5.2". I also have the Leupold mounted on my .375 in Tally QD mounts and as you can see there is zero room for ER adjustment but thanks to it's forgiving eyebox it works. I originally bought it with the same scope but in Leupold windage adjustable bases and there was plenty of room for fore and aft adjustment. If you're interested in these bases let me know
Charter Member Ancient order of the 1895 Winchester
"It's an insecure and petite man who demands all others like what he likes and dislike what he dislikes." szihn
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I have the same rifle with a Leupold VX-3 2.5 x 8 mounted in Talley QR bases and rings no rail. Not much room for any eye relief adjustment but just by chance it works out perfectly for me. Your scope probably has a longer tube so the Talley mounts may work well for you also. Killed a brown bear with it in 2010..
You give up flexibility, and as you say, not much room for adjustment. If you like a forward mounted scope, it should work. I like mine set back a bit, don't like to stock crawl. To me, I'd have to go with a rail and like the OP, not to excited about that. The NF body is pretty short, probably shorter than your 2.5-8. Here's that NF scope on a SA 700, sitting about where I like it. As you see, the Talley LW front ring is turned around. This scope on a LA wouldn't work without a rail, at least situated like I want it. DF
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Campfire 'Bwana
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That offset base may work. Of course, the NF is 30mm.
DF
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To answer the OP's question. I've ran a rail on a model 70, with no issues: If you don't mind the tactacool look. More fitting on the all black rifle pictured above than on a wood stocked model 70, but to each his own..
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Tmitch, Did you ever figure out who made that stock?
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Interestingly enough, this rifle used to wear a VX3 2.5-8 on Leupold mounts. I took that scope off and put it on my sons rifle and my intent was to put this Nightforce on the .375. I never liked the Leupold mounts to begin with, but I bought the gun used that way. I'd love to use Talley steel bases and screw lock rings, but I don't see that working, as shown with the QD rings pictured above. This scope is just a hair shorter tubed than the Leupold. BSA17, thanks for that pic. No ejection issues? I cant see the other side, is that a Classic or push feed action?
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Interestingly enough, this rifle used to wear a VX3 2.5-8 on Leupold mounts. I took that scope off and put it on my sons rifle and my intent was to put this Nightforce on the .375. I never liked the Leupold mounts to begin with, but I bought the gun used that way. I'd love to use Talley steel bases and screw lock rings, but I don't see that working, as shown with the QD rings pictured above. This scope is just a hair shorter tubed than the Leupold. BSA17, thanks for that pic. No ejection issues? I cant see the other side, is that a Classic or push feed action? No problem buddy. That is actually a 300wsm, so it is a short action. Not that it would make a difference, as winchester does a good job at ejecting empties. Unlike some others (Sako for example). It is a CRF action. In actuality, it is an FN PBR XP, but the rifle started out as a classic action model 70. I wish I had a pic of the other side. This is about as good as I can do: The scope in this pic has a 40mm objective and is different than the first pic I posted. The rail is a 1913 mil spec and the rings I used were the Burris XTR on the 40mm objective and in the other pic I used TPS rings with the Nikon monarch X 4-16x50. Those rings are more streamlined and very robust and also made of steel. I believe.
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Tmitch, Did you ever figure out who made that stock?
No I never did. I emailed pictures to McMillan but they said it wasn't theirs.
Charter Member Ancient order of the 1895 Winchester
"It's an insecure and petite man who demands all others like what he likes and dislike what he dislikes." szihn
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Tmitch, Did you ever figure out who made that stock?
No I never did. I emailed pictures to McMillan but they said it wasn't theirs. Wonder if it was something hill country might have had done. It’s a great looking stock. 🤔
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Never checked with Hill Country but their website says they use McMillan for their drop box. Whoever it was did a really great job of bedding and fitting.
Charter Member Ancient order of the 1895 Winchester
"It's an insecure and petite man who demands all others like what he likes and dislike what he dislikes." szihn
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Rails are easy to work with, cut them off fore and aft of the action ports, mount rings in last slots, use thinner rings than Talley or Nightforce etc, if steel rail, cold blue the saw/file marks, if aluminum paint em or get em cerakoted.
Trump Won!
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The Nightforce has a mounting length of 5.1" vs a Leupold 2.5-8 at 5.2". I also have the Leupold mounted on my .375 in Tally QD mounts and as you can see there is zero room for ER adjustment but thanks to it's forgiving eyebox it works. I originally bought it with the same scope but in Leupold windage adjustable bases and there was plenty of room for fore and aft adjustment. If you're interested in these bases let me know I do remember that rifle and how the deal went down. I thought you did good back then, still do. That stock was and is a mystery, but top quality from what I can see. DF
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Rails are easy to work with, cut them off fore and aft of the action ports, mount rings in last slots, use thinner rings than Talley or Nightforce etc, if steel rail, cold blue the saw/file marks, if aluminum paint em or get em cerakoted. That's good advice, but sometimes the rings need to be situated over the ejection port. That is the beauty in the rail because you can put the rings where you need them. I realize they are not going to win any beauty contests, but they are stronger than other one piece mounts and more versatile. I don't mind them on my Tikka CTR's, but on a model 70 hunting rifle with wood stock, they can be an eye sore..
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Rails are easy to work with, cut them off fore and aft of the action ports, mount rings in last slots, use thinner rings than Talley or Nightforce etc, if steel rail, cold blue the saw/file marks, if aluminum paint em or get em cerakoted. That's good advice, but sometimes the rings need to be situated over the ejection port. That is the beauty in the rail because you can put the rings where you need them. I realize they are not going to win any beauty contests, but they are stronger than other one piece mounts and more versatile. I don't mind them on my Tikka CTR's, but on a model 70 hunting rifle with wood stock, they can be an eye sore.. I agree with all that Big Buddy, but on OP's classic stainless a rail of any configuration would look more than at home, it'd be hard to run with blue and walnut LOL.
Trump Won!
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Rails are easy to work with, cut them off fore and aft of the action ports, mount rings in last slots, use thinner rings than Talley or Nightforce etc, if steel rail, cold blue the saw/file marks, if aluminum paint em or get em cerakoted. That's good advice, but sometimes the rings need to be situated over the ejection port. That is the beauty in the rail because you can put the rings where you need them. I realize they are not going to win any beauty contests, but they are stronger than other one piece mounts and more versatile. I don't mind them on my Tikka CTR's, but on a model 70 hunting rifle with wood stock, they can be an eye sore.. I agree with all that Big Buddy, but on OP's classic stainless a rail of any configuration would look more than at home, it'd be hard to run with blue and walnut LOL. I agree...
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style. You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole. BSA MAGA
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Rails are easy to work with, cut them off fore and aft of the action ports, mount rings in last slots, use thinner rings than Talley or Nightforce etc, if steel rail, cold blue the saw/file marks, if aluminum paint em or get em cerakoted. That works for me. I’ll even put a bit of bedding under them before I cut it. It’s nice to have the extra slots and the extra MOA doesn’t hurt in some cases.
Semper Fi
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Never checked with Hill Country but their website says they use McMillan for their drop box. Whoever it was did a really great job of bedding and fitting. Why don’t you post a link to that rifle deal. It was interesting back then, those who don’t know about it may find it interesting. DF
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Never checked with Hill Country but their website says they use McMillan for their drop box. Whoever it was did a really great job of bedding and fitting. Hill Country does the absolute best job at bedding I have EVER seen. I have several and the bedding jobs are works of art.
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