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I put this same question in the shotgun reloading and see what kind of answers I get but this might be a better place it does involve a bit of scientific level I guess.

I'll see if I can get this question out, in a nutshell does the pressure affect the cycling of a gas or inertia shotgun?
What brings this question I have one gas operated 20 gauge that is a bit ammo finicky on new factory ammo. Ammo of the same weight charge and velocity rating some cycles better than others. Is that because of possible pressure?
When hand loading you can pick a powder that has some incredibly high velocity in lower pressure or you can give some faster burning powder that gives you a lower velocity on higher pressures. That's where my question of does the pressure really affect the cycling of an auto loader.

Last edited by ldholton; 01/21/22.
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from a factory expert an ammo engineer said if your using a auto loader shotgun if you have a source of new hulls auto loaders seem to work better and yes certain brand ammo and hulls new and used work sometimes much better. i liked using used Winchester AA hulls best for my kid`s auto 20 gauge , but to be honest 20 gauge auto shotguns can be dang fussy . good luck ,Pete53

Last edited by pete53; 01/21/22.

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Originally Posted by ldholton
I put this same question in the shotgun reloading and see what kind of answers I get but this might be a better place it does involve a bit of scientific level I guess.

I'll see if I can get this question out, in a nutshell does the pressure affect the cycling of a gas or inertia shotgun?
What brings this question I have one gas operated 20 gauge that is a bit ammo finicky on new factory ammo. Ammo of the same weight charge and velocity rating some cycles better than others. Is that because of possible pressure?
When hand loading you can pick a powder that has some incredibly high velocity in lower pressure or you can give some faster burning powder that gives you a lower velocity on higher pressures. That's where my question of does the pressure really affect the cycling of an auto loader.


Which gas auto? How many rounds through it? Field loads or target ammo?

Some of the "cheap" promo ammo has cruddy wads that don't seal well and can potentially be problematic in some semi-autos.


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Some of the cheap ammo is also lower-pressure, which combined with variable wads can result in unreliable results.

Have also owned quite a few gas-operated autos that were supposedly designed to compensate for different pressures and cartridge lengths. One 12-gauge was supposedly able to handle everything from 2-3/4" to 3-1/2" hunting loads equally well. Found it did NOT handle 3-1/2" loads reliably at goose-hunting temperatures, so sent it back to the manufacturer. They adjusted it, and claimed it would now work fine. It did--with 3" and 3-1/2" ammo. But it would not cycle reliably with 2-3/4" ammo.

Was never fond of the 3-1/2" 12 anyway, finding the 3-1/2" 10-gauge patterned more consistently. But after trying a bunch of 12-gauge autos, eventually ended up with a Benelli Ethos, which due to its recoil-operated system combined with various advances in "kick reduction," works reliably and comfortably with any ammo I've tried so far, from cheap 2-3/4" to various 3" loads


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I bought a Browning 2000 Auto 20 ga used in 2011 when my first Grandson was born intending on it to be his one day. I had 2 reloads with 7/8 shot using the same powder guide on my Mec Jr. Green Dot gave 1150 fps and W540 1305 fps(per Lyman Shotshell 3rd edition).
Not sure of the pressure with either, but the 1150fps would not cycle the gun but the 1305 fps did with no problem. Research told me it took heavy field loads to cycle this gun.
Never had that problem with Savage 720, Sportman 11, Remington 1100 or Browning A5's. Needless to say the 2000 went down the road and I'm back to my favorites SxS..the 20 ga reserved for GS#1.

Last edited by Bobcat85; 01/21/22.
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Which manufacturer 20 gauge auto do you have? I have a Remington LT- 20 gauge that would not eject nor would the bolt even open on 3/4 ounce 20 gauge target loads I shoot in two other target guns I have. Having a second 20 gauge reloader I loaded standard 7/8 oz target loads at a higher pressure....problem solved.

The 20 gauge operating pressure is generally maxed at 11,000 pounds or slightly under. Most factory target loads are close to 10,000 or slightly over.

Opening the "Gas Ports" is in my opinion is not an option. Refer to Mule Deers previous post. FIND a load that works or if you reload load to a higher pressure.

I shoot 7/8oz 12 gauge reloads exclusively, Beretta auto's and the Winchester Super-X cycled the 7/8 oz loads
just fine.....i had to work with my Remington 1100's for reliability.

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Originally Posted by Bobcat85
I'm back to my favorites SxS..the 20 ga reserved for GS#1.


Which is also why more than half my shotguns are SxS--including my 10-gauge, a high-quality Spanish gun. They always go bang!


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The answer to the OP's question is "Yes."

Many semis, including recoil operating Benellis, will not operate with real light loads such as 3/4 or 7/8 ounce of shot (12 gauge) unless the velocity is increased. But some over/unders will not set the second barrel either.


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"But some over/unders will not set the second barrel either."

Yes, and I have owned some modern, single-trigger guns costing over $1000 that neither the manufacturer or good gunsmiths could cure. Which is why all my double shotguns--except one--have two triggers.


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A gas operated semiauto needs a certain amount of gas volume along with adequate duration at the ports - too little and one will have operating problems while too much can cause operating problems as well as increase wear and tear on the gun. One can readily see this with Beretta 390 series guns as Rich Cole designed a set of gas exhaust springs to maximize reliability with loads ranging from very low volume/dwell to quite high.

Pressure is not really a part of the equation as that does actually affect the volume of gas nor the dwell time. That is more a characteristic of the powder used than anything else. That is why some loads will work well in a given shotgun while others don't it is also a reason low cost shells may work one time but not another as the components, especially powder, regularly change between lots. Higher end shells are made to a tighter standard often with less variation in components which is a reason they are more reliable.

Recoil and inertia actions are dependent on the amount of force (recoil) needed to push the bolt back rather than gas volume. Using light shot charges means higher velocities to properly operate the mechanism while heavier shot charges could get by with less velocity. As with gas operated autoloaders, too much recoil can also affect the operation of the shotgun so there is a balancing act here too. And that can change as springs wear and are replaced.

There really is no "do all" mechanism that doesn't make a compromise at one end or the other of the operating spectrum. The first Winchester SX-2 I owned and my current Browning Gold 3.5" guns cycle nearly everything I've put in them from 7/8 oz reloads to 2 1/4 oz turkey loads but I'd wager the heavy loads batter the mechanism pretty hard making me glad I only used a handful of them. Recoil/inertia guns can be even more fickle on the lower end as the two SBEs I've played with needed at least 1350 fps to operate properly with 7/8 oz loads and I've seen more than one inertia gun have problems at the range with 2 3/4 and even 3 dram target loads.

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Originally Posted by woodmaster81
A gas operated semiauto needs a certain amount of gas volume along with adequate duration at the ports - too little and one will have operating problems while too much can cause operating problems as well as increase wear and tear on the gun. One can readily see this with Beretta 390 series guns as Rich Cole designed a set of gas exhaust springs to maximize reliability with loads ranging from very low volume/dwell to quite high.

Pressure is not really a part of the equation as that does actually affect the volume of gas nor the dwell time. That is more a characteristic of the powder used than anything else. That is why some loads will work well in a given shotgun while others don't it is also a reason low cost shells may work one time but not another as the components, especially powder, regularly change between lots. Higher end shells are made to a tighter standard often with less variation in components which is a reason they are more reliable.

Recoil and inertia actions are dependent on the amount of force (recoil) needed to push the bolt back rather than gas volume. Using light shot charges means higher velocities to properly operate the mechanism while heavier shot charges could get by with less velocity. As with gas operated autoloaders, too much recoil can also affect the operation of the shotgun so there is a balancing act here too. And that can change as springs wear and are replaced.

There really is no "do all" mechanism that doesn't make a compromise at one end or the other of the operating spectrum. The first Winchester SX-2 I owned and my current Browning Gold 3.5" guns cycle nearly everything I've put in them from 7/8 oz reloads to 2 1/4 oz turkey loads but I'd wager the heavy loads batter the mechanism pretty hard making me glad I only used a handful of them. Recoil/inertia guns can be even more fickle on the lower end as the two SBEs I've played with needed at least 1350 fps to operate properly with 7/8 oz loads and I've seen more than one inertia gun have problems at the range with 2 3/4 and even 3 dram target loads.

I appreciate everyone's thoughts and advice and this post above is more in the line of what I'm thinking and wondering. I'm starting to reload some 20 gauge shells and wondering if I should keep pressures up along with adequate velocity or not worry about the pressures and keep the pressures down for less wear and tear. I know it will take some experimenting I'm not totally new to all this just sometimes overthink things.
Early on somebody mentioned about wad seal. Now if the pressure was up that would help seal questionable was correct? Velocity would have little to do with this more to do with pressure if this is a problem?

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ldholton,

I'm not sure I understand your last two questions, but pressure and velocity are related in shooting a shotgun shell, similar to with a rifle cartridge, but a little different.

The wad is like a piston traveling down a tube, pushed by expanding gases from the powder burning.

The velocity of the shot (and wad) is related to the acceleration. For a wad initially at rest,

Velocity (ft/sec) = Acceleration (ft/sec/sec) x time (sec)

That same acceleration is associated with the pressure:

Force = pressure (lb/ square inch) x area (square inches)
and
Force = mass (lbm) x acceleration (ft/sec/sec)

So,
Pressure = mass x acceleration / area

The above involves some simplification because none of the terms are constant (they vary with time) except the mass of the shot and wad and possibly the area of the base of the wad.

The tightness of the wad determines the amount of gas that blows by the wad instead of pushing on the base of the wad, which affects force on the base on the wad, which affects pressure and acceleration, and ultimately velocity.

Pressure also has a role in slightly deforming the wad to seal against the walls of the tube (barrel), which in turn means more of the gases are pushing on the base of the wad instead of blowing past it.

Edit to add:
Before anyone points it out, yes I did neglect some of the forces like friction and glossed over the Newton's 3rd law discussion for why the wad/shot mass acceleration is approximately equal to the force from the pressure of the gases on the rear of the wad, for the sake of simplifying for illustration purposes.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Some of the cheap ammo is also lower-pressure, which combined with variable wads can result in unreliable results.

Have also owned quite a few gas-operated autos that were supposedly designed to compensate for different pressures and cartridge lengths. One 12-gauge was supposedly able to handle everything from 2-3/4" to 3-1/2" hunting loads equally well. Found it did NOT handle 3-1/2" loads reliably at goose-hunting temperatures, so sent it back to the manufacturer. They adjusted it, and claimed it would now work fine. It did--with 3" and 3-1/2" ammo. But it would not cycle reliably with 2-3/4" ammo.

Was never fond of the 3-1/2" 12 anyway, finding the 3-1/2" 10-gauge patterned more consistently. But after trying a bunch of 12-gauge autos, eventually ended up with a Benelli Ethos, which due to its recoil-operated system combined with various advances in "kick reduction," works reliably and comfortably with any ammo I've tried so far, from cheap 2-3/4" to various 3" loads


My Remington V3 has handled everything I’ve put through it.

Light 1 oz 2-3/4 dram to 3” magnum ,
I don’t miss 3-1/2” magnums , I mostly shoot 2-3/4” shells anyways.

I suppose I will try some of these 2-1/2” short shells for grins.
L-S-L, S-S-M shell sequence in the magazine

I hope that RemArms brings the V3 back to life, mine has been a gem


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in my family we gave up on 20 gauge auto loaders just to much jamming,pump 20 ga. shotguns are fine ,side by sides and over/unders if you buy the better brands work well. a light 12 gauge in a 390 Beretta work well for my skinny small 10 year old with 1 oz. loads probably had less recoil than a 20 gauge too. find him a light short barrel auto 12 gauge shotgun that is gas operated , besides 12 gauge ammo is most of the time cheaper and just use 1 oz. loads for a young person.


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Originally Posted by Ramblin_Razorback
ldholton,

I'm not sure I understand your last two questions, but pressure and velocity are related in shooting a shotgun shell, similar to with a rifle cartridge, but a little different.

The wad is like a piston traveling down a tube, pushed by expanding gases from the powder burning.

The velocity of the shot (and wad) is related to the acceleration. For a wad initially at rest,

Velocity (ft/sec) = Acceleration (ft/sec/sec) x time (sec)

That same acceleration is associated with the pressure:

Force = pressure (lb/ square inch) x area (square inches)
and
Force = mass (lbm) x acceleration (ft/sec/sec)

So,
Pressure = mass x acceleration / area

The above involves some simplification because none of the terms are constant (they vary with time) except the mass of the shot and wad and possibly the area of the base of the wad.

The tightness of the wad determines the amount of gas that blows by the wad instead of pushing on the base of the wad, which affects force on the base on the wad, which affects pressure and acceleration, and ultimately velocity.

Pressure also has a role in slightly deforming the wad to seal against the walls of the tube (barrel), which in turn means more of the gases are pushing on the base of the wad instead of blowing past it.

Edit to add:
Before anyone points it out, yes I did neglect some of the forces like friction and glossed over the Newton's 3rd law discussion for why the wad/shot mass acceleration is approximately equal to the force from the pressure of the gases on the rear of the wad, for the sake of simplifying for illustration purposes.

Understand completely what you're saying let me try asking this a different way.
Take longshot versus Red Dot
Long shot will produce very high velocities at fairly low pressures. Will Red Dot will produce lower and moderate velocities at much higher pressures. Which one of them was most likely to cycle a gas gun the best? Or will it really make any difference is the cycling base just on mass of projectile and speed? And the pressure has little to do with it or does the pressure affect some?

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I'm just new to shotguns. I was left a Winchester 1400 12ga .It was Winchester's answer to the 1100, a year later. I reload ,so I'm starting to look at it loading for it. I asked the same basic question on a shotgun forum . General consensus was gas volume not pressure was the critical factor. Watching a you tube vid, he referred to the 1400 as high volume/low pressure . I wonder if that Clays I bought for low recoil target loads will work ? .


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For the 1400, use a published load and you will be fine. The only exception I can think of would be with a very low velocity 7/8 oz load or a factory load like the Winchester AA Feather-lite which was a less than 7/8 oz load at a nominal 980 fps.

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I'm going to update this thread I started sometime ago. As I keep experimenting. Now I know a TriStar G2 especially in 20 gauge just somewhat controversial on reliability..
I have a standard wooden model that love Federal factory ammo rated at 1200 ft per second with 7/8 Oz load. Same rating in Winchester it did not like so well. Heater brand well somewhere in between that.
Now I start reloading for this thing and use long shot powder the load I'm running actually chronographs at 1200 fps. In the book tells me it's rated at 10, 400 PSI. And was absolutely reliable no problems but with a noticeable recoil..
Now today I done some experimental loads with international powder did not chronograph but was rated to shoot at 1167 PSI with 13 grains of powder. My scale showed my bushing was throwing 12.8 grains of powder. The book also showed the pressure was rated at 12,500psi. Guns functioned reliably. Which leads me to believe the gas operation relies at least a good deal upon pressure and gas curve as well as charge weight and velocity somewhat.


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