Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Ask The Gunwriters Bore Brushes

Keith[/quote]
It is a game changer, indeed. You'll wonder what to do with all the spare time that you used to spend cleaning barrels for hours on end.[/quote]

Yep! Which has been one of my major points ever since first trying it, which from my shooting notes was in 2007--back when it was still gray instead of clear. Did you ever use any of the gray stuff, Jordan?

Just like the Sun rising in the morning you know JS will be all about DBC.........

Sort of the way you'll surely rail against three groove barrels, and me against putting ice in sipping whiskey.

That's exactly right.......

Brushes-
nylon brush w/ 320 grit silicon carbide lapping compound applied to a 2" round patch for smooth bore shotgun barrels assisted w/ a cordless drill motor...followed by a wet patch of solvent...followed by a patch of oils....5 minutes DONE.

bronze brush in handgun barrels....coppered...out comes the silicon carbide lapping compound on a patch & jag.

Keith-
Most will never comprehend.

Each barrel shoots different, each barrel cleans different....of same lot...cut w/ same chamber reamer.

90% of the available products...are SNAKE OILS.

Test you foaming shaving cream that camo's copper & does NOT remove it.

Most would be better off using WD40 & Windex to clean bores.

Those who pull a boot lace thru said bores & are satisfied.....good luck...a carbon donut will surface in short order.

Any imperfections in any bore are heat risers/carbon/copper traps...like a pot hole in the road & will NEVER iron out..NEVER..even if lapped or fire lapped.

Carbon under copper will collect moisture & corrode/pit any barrel.

Test-
Take your favorite SNAKE OIL & pour some in a small glass jar w/ enough to cover a jacketed projectile.
Mic & weigh a projectile.
Drop said projectile in your favorite SNAKE OIL.
Allpy an air tight lid on jar.
Annotate particulars on a piece of masking tape and fix/stick it on the jar.
7 days later...inspect said SNAKE OIL to ascertain IF it has changed color or etched said projectile.
80-90% of SNAKE OILS will go months w/o a witness of etching the jacket let alone turning blue from the ammonia eroding the copper from said jacket.


All verified in the Arctic & w/a Gradient Lens Bore scope from decades of .....TESTING....EVALUATING.....

Please name a few non-snake oils.

I know this is an old read but, it does show how many opinions there are on rifle cleaning and “bronze” brushes. It makes one’s head spin.

https://www.6mmbr.com/borebrushing.html

John,

I don’t recall if my first bottle was clear or gray, but they changed to the clear formula right about the time I started using it a bunch. It used to come in the clear, plastic containers, but it dried out quicker than necessary in the plastic bottles so they went to aluminum. I remember the gray stuff used to stain stocks and stuff, so it came with a warning.

And why wouldn’t I be? I tend to like stuff that simply works and makes my life easier.

[[/quote]
I don’t recall if my first bottle was clear or gray, but they changed to the clear formula right about the time I started using it a bunch. It used to come in the clear, plastic containers, but it dried out quicker than necessary in the plastic bottles so they went to aluminum. I remember the gray stuff used to stain stocks and stuff, so it came with a warning.[/quote]

I started playing with DBC toward the end of the gray era. It was interesting, because while effective it wasn't particularly pleasing to the eye, especially if you got it on a stock. I also knew a few people who installed DBC who got some the gray stuff inside the chamber as well as the bore, and complained about it. But chamber-slop was easily removed with a bore brush of the right size, since it didn't "cure" like DBC in the bore. (I also suggested such people put an empty case in the chamber when installing....)

They went to the clear formula and aluminum bottles maybe two years, at most, after that.