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Joined: Aug 2020
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So I’ve decided to cast my own muzzleloader bullets. I’m completely new to bullet casting I’ve reloaded for several years but never any casting. There are short sections about casting in some of my reloading manuals but they seem kind of vague. So any advice or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Some of it I’m sure I’ll have to learn the hard way

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Here is a link to a site with a wealth of cast bullet information. Everything you should need to produce very good bullets. The Lyman Cast Bullet handbook is also a very good resource.

Los Angeles Silhouette Club

The Lyman Cast Bullet handbook is also a very good resource.


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What NVhntr said.

Couple of fine points: DO NOT attempt to cast with hard alloys. Pure lead or pure with a very small amount of tin, say 60:1. If you’re planning to cast bullets bore diameter to maybe +001”. Use a BP lube, not ALOX. There is discussion in this in the LASC web site. Temperature is your buddy, or worst enemy. Cast pure lead or the 60:1 alloy at 800*.


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So thanks for the advice the website was helpful thought I’d post a follow up. I cast some last night and went out and shot them this evening. They were a .452 300 grain Lee mold. Harvester crush rib sabot and 85 grains of blackhorn. They loaded really easy almost had me nervous but I did run them through a sizer last night though not sure they needed it shooting in a sabot. The few I measured were only 1 to 2 thousandths off. After a few scope adjustments I was able to keep them all inside a 2 inch target at 50 yards and right at dusk I shot two from 100 yards that were touching but 7 inches low....they drop like anchors. But all in all I’m pretty pleased. I didn’t know what to expect. The other concern I had before I shot them was the ones I weighed were ranging from 307 to 315 grains. Maybe that number will tighten up the more practice I get casting.

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Sounds like you're on the right track.


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I use a ladle is your friend when casting large bullets and those of best quality.
Bottom pour for speed or when casting smaller bullets.

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Preheat your molds, make sure you use some flux in the lead. It will help get out the impurities. If flux isn't available, I have used beeswax as a substitute.
Personally, I add a little tin to make the lead flow better. I add some babbit when making hard cast hunting bullets and I water quench them. It's a very fine line between hard and too hard. Too hard and the bullets will crack and fracture.
A good thermometer will be one of your best and relatively cheap investments.
Good Luck!


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You can not clean and flux your lead too much.

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I'll 2nd the suggestion to get the Lyman Cast Bullet book. Another good one is "From Ingot to Target" that can be downloaded for free.

Get a casting thermometer. I cast a long time without one, so it can be done. Knowing the temperature removes some of the guessing.

Clean your mold before using it. I use Brakecleaner and an old tooth brush. Also lube the line-up pins and sprue plate.

Pre-heat your mold. A $12 Walmart hot plate works well for this. Also, pre-heating your ingots before putting them in the pot reduces your wait time.

With practice you should be able to reduce the weight difference by quite a bit. The difference in weight between my pistol bullets is real close to what Sierra bullets weight difference is. I'm talking 10ths of a grain, not grains! So, it can be done.


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I've never got into it. At least yet but, it's probably in my future. I let a friend of mine borrow my molds.


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Clean your molds really well before heating really well after fluxing your melt really well. Best advice I can give you.


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