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Is there anyone with reasonably extensive experience with the little old and somewhat crude Savage 219's or 220's with 219 barrels on them?


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Originally Posted by luv2safari
Is there anyone with reasonably extensive experience with the little old and somewhat crude Savage 219's or 220's with 219 barrels on them?


I had one in .22 Hornet years ago. Not a great trigger, but reasonably accurate. A very basic, bare bones utility rifle, but of decent quality.

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They sure are sleek and pretty rifles. You should send that picture to Henry accompanied by a one word letter: "hint..." wink


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I had one in .30-30 for a number of years. It carried a 4x scope. I could usually get 5 shots of factory Winchester 150 grain ammo under 2 inches at 100 yards off a bench. Occasionally, I'd get groups of 1-1/4", but they were not the usual result. In any event, the rifle shot well inside the "minute of deer" requirement for which the rifle was used and I did kill a nice 7 point whitetail with it. I wish I hadn't sold it, but something else whispered in my ear and it went down the road to partially fund the whisperer. They are solid, very basic rifles which were a good deal more attractive than the various H&R and clones of those H&Rs that were a more modern version.

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Originally Posted by Jim in Idaho
They sure are sleek and pretty rifles.

All the steel of the pictured .30-30 219 received Black Nitride treatment, making for an all-weather, lightweight, quick-handling stalking rifle.



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working with one in 30-30 right now seems to be EXTREMELY sensitive to grip pressure and rest point showing 4-6 inch vertical stringing especially with factory jacketed ammunition. Light loads using 165gr cast bullets will shoot 1.5 MOA if and when I am SUPER consistent with hold.
Hoping to find/work up a cast load with heavier 190gr for whitetails.

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15 grains of SR4759 (unfortunately discontinued) has been working well for me with cast bullets ranging from 150 grains to 173 grains:

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If I had some 190 grain cast bullets, I’d certainly try 15 of 4759 with them, too, if it can be found. I stocked up before it disappeared.


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15 to 16 grains of 4227 gives similar results in one of my Marlin 30-30's and is still available. Might give it a try if you don't have any 4759.
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15 to 16 grains of 4227 gives similar results in one of my Marlin 30-30's and is still available. Might give it a try if you don't have any 4759.
Good Luck,
Rick

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Originally Posted by Exchipy
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I like what you did with it.

I've been thinking about re-chambering one of the 30-30 barrels I have to 30-40 to step it up a little. Being able to use spitzer bullets in these is a real plus, also. I'll be glassing the buttstock to prevent the usual 219/220 cracking and repair the existing crack.


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Originally Posted by luv2safari
Originally Posted by Exchipy
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I like what you did with it.

I've been thinking about re-chambering one of the 30-30 barrels I have to 30-40 to step it up a little...
I’ve sometimes thought about re-chambering a 219 .22 Hornet barrel to .218 Bee, partly because I already load for it in my 14” Contender pistol. However, I would not be inclined to re-chamber a 219 .30-30 to .30-40, because it’s more than would be enjoyable to shoot in such a light rifle. When a step up is desired, I go to this heavier TCR83 in .30-06:

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The TC is nice for sure, but light is what I'm after, and recoil isn't a big issue.

I still shoot a pre-64 Mdl 70 375 H&H with a steel butt plate. I don't think the 30-40 would kick any harder than my 16ga 220 or surely my 12ga 220.

I wouldn't mind having a TC, but they're not all that available and are expensive. I DO like set triggers! cool


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Originally Posted by luv2safari
The TC is nice for sure, but light is what I'm after, and recoil isn't a big issue.

I still shoot a pre-64 Mdl 70 375 H&H with a steel butt plate. I don't think the 30-40 would kick any harder than my 16ga 220 or surely my 12ga 220. …
But, are they truly enjoyable to shoot, or is it too much like work?


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It won't be a recreational shooter. It will be a LW hunting rifle that forces me to get a bit closer. That's how I have fun with a HP rifle.

The expense of popping primers, burning powder, and bruising bullets has taken away a lot of fun out of poking holes in targets.


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Originally Posted by Jim in Idaho
They sure are sleek and pretty rifles. You should send that picture to Henry accompanied by a one word letter: "hint..." wink

Since the Henry is designed to handle 12ga, .45/70, and high-pressure centerfires like .308 and .243, I doubt they’re going to be slimming it down. The receiver is a bit squarish for my taste, but the stocks are actually quite slim and trim. Hard for me to not like a nicely-finished, quality American-made gun with very nice walnut for under $500 street price. Another one will be landing here shortly. I did go to their suggestion page and tell them they should d&t all the shotguns, not just the slug and turkey models, and fit them with swivel studs, but I ain’t holding my breath.


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I have a 219 in the hornet. It is old enough that it has the smaller bore. Still shoot 224 bullets but reduced the charge a bit and went to small pistol primers and it shoots fine.


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Don't get me wrong, I like a svelte break open (kiplauf) single shot rifle as much as the next guy, but there's an inherent design fault which can't help but detract a little from accuracy. Since the barrel itself opens and closes and by necessity must have "wiggle room" tolerances for it to work (slight as those tolerances may be), upon discharge the barrel jumps around a tiny bit on its pivot axis and within the receiver frame (and still whipping like any barrel on any gun, too) which doesn't do us any favors one or two hundred yards downrange on the paper. High end break-open rifles conquer that by employing tighter hand-fitted tolerances and more sophisticated bank vault-like locking systems - something not found in cheap American guns based on single shot shotgun actions. Add to that the "clatter" of the hammer/striker and you have a recipe that denies benchrest accuracy from these things. Falling block designs ameliorate a lot of that, but still have to deal with hammer/striker vibrations, but at least the barrels are firmly anchored and barrel whip is the only concern (hence heavy barrels on target models).

For a guy to take a position on this type rifle, he has to define his accuracy standard and think about its intended purpose. For me, as I start to age out, acceptable hunting accuracy doesn't cut it much any more as I actually hunt less and less each year. But, I'm bench shooting more and more in its stead.


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Thinking about this some more: Imagine, theoretically, that with a perfect harmoniously balanced load with the perfect bullet, in a barrel that could (again theoretically mind you) put 3 or 5 into a tiny cluster at 100 yards - if that barrel wiggled just .001" while the bullet is traveling down the bore that equates to almost 3/8" deviation at that distance. (3600 inches in 100 yards x .001" = .360") Given that said barrel could just as easily wiggle in the opposite direction during the second shot as it did for the first shot, right there is almost 3/4" extreme spread in the grouping built into the gun, and that's just with a thousandth of an inch lateral play. Factor in that a hardware store quality rifle surely has more than a thousandth of play/wiggle/tolerance maybe you can see where I was coming from in the above post.

Of course real world results are often mitigated by a myriad of factors, some good some bad, but it's something to ponder.


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I just picked up a H & R 22honet with full stock, classy looking little gun, will try to get some bench time before I send it to him, need to scope, no iron sights, thats ok with me. btw, its the tightest closing one I have every had.

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