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Anyone know of a good substitute for honing oil?

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About any light oil will work, including vegetable oil. All it is doing is carrying off the debris. What you don't want is a high carbon oil when you are doing machine work. They might not work as well as adevertised honing oil, but will do the job


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I use a lot of ATF in my shop for a multitude of purposes. For honing I cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits (paint thinner). Works just fine.

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DON'T USE VEGETABLE OIL! I assume you are using an oil stone? It will destroy a good stone over time. It will clog up the works. I have seen many a good stone ruined with vegetable oil. Like anything, it can work, same as 3 in 1 oil, but that is not what it was meant for. ESPECIALLY not vegetable oil on an oil stone.


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SH, HMMM!!!!. Over the years, the common way to prep a stone was to heat some crisco up and dunk the stone in it. I assume that isn't the proper way to do it?

I have use everything that I could lay my hands on in elk camp when I didn't have the proper stuff, even spit.. Most of my stones are +30 yrs old and seem to still work. I can see how one could clog one up though.



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Any mineral oil from a drug store, $1 per pint. Sweat smelling stuff is Johnson's Baby Oil.
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Just curious guys. Would you finish you rifle stocks with 10W-30, and clean your bores with only windex, and oil that action with olive oil. Then why do the same with a knife?

Yes those things will work, but there are better things.

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I substitued all stones and their lube,for diamond stones,quite a while ago. I do not miss them and find the diamonds far superior.

Just for [bleep] and giggles,try this tip a pard showed me at work one day. Go to your rig and roll down the window half way,or better. Use the top edge of the glass,as you would your favorite stone. In a coupla licks,you'll have a razor edge.

I could not believe my eyes,when he demonstrated it. The long surface of the glass,puts a rapid hone on even a stubborn edge and it is nice to have such a device always "in" the rig. I've misplaced more than one sharpening device,but have yet to lose a rig(grin).

As per usual,your mileage may vary but that is food for thought.................


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BigStick -

I had forgotten about using the edge of the window glass. I used to do this out when I worked in the oil fields years ago.

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Steelhead. Hey this isn't rocket science here. He asked for a substitute. At home I have two leather 8" wheels on a grinder for fine finishes and an old barbers strop. My knives going into the feld are razor sharp. However, I have used all the items mentioned here except the window edge. I'll have to try that.There isn't any oils out ther that can hurt a knife. If you screw it up, you just start over. Not a flame here, just a comment.


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just read it for the first time tonight. randalls website sharpening page recommends kerosene, and saliva as alternatives


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Thanks, all. I will give ATF a try as well as some of your other suggestions.

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I like that window edge idea, have to keep it in mind, if I'm ever without a stone. But if your truck is there, couldn't you just pull out the dip stick, and get a few drops. Should work in a pinch, as long as you have your stone. If you have your stone, but the truck is 5 miles away and you just have to get that bull moose quartered before dark, plain old water will get you by.

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Sharpening stone oil is basically just plain old Mineral oil. Odorless, colorless, non-toxic and cleans up easily with soap and water. It won't spoil or turn rancid like vegetable oil.

We buy it by the Gallon for use in the Meat shop, to fill the oil bath 3-way sharpening stones we use.

I've always been amazed what people will pay for "Sharpening Oil" or "Honing Oil" when all you need is Mineral oil.[ Tens-of-Thousands of Butcher's can't be wrong]

It's USDA approved, in other words you could ingest it and won't hurt you, not so sure about ATF or any of the other Petrolem distilates.

I've scolded many apprentice Meat cutters for making the same mistake I did when I was one [apprentice], for using "vegetable" oil on the stones.

It does gum up the works of a stone [especially in a 50 degree cutting room], at least one already treated with Mineral oil, I don't think vegetable&mineral oil are compatable at any temp!

Kind of like the two Ex-wives and myself! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />


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Where would a guy buy plain old mineral oil? What's it called in the store?

On another thread we've been talking about spliting pelvic bones and how people do it. Maby you could tell us how it's done in the slaughter house?

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Mineral oil can be found in any drug store, and most any grocery store, and probably hardware stores too.
As far as splitting the pelvis bone, well I'm no expert when comes to that.
It's almost a lost art any more with the advent of the power saws.
Why waste time trying to find that seam when you can just power saw through it. I know you can't have a power saw in the field with you.
I started out working in a locker plant, since then, I've always worked retail, like the fellas you see behind meat counter at the grocery store. I've never worked "Wholesale" or Slaughter house , if you will.
Those guys are a "Breed" all their own! I know quite few and some are good real friends but man they are Animals!
<img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Anyway to split the pelvis, if you'll look at the top of the pelvis you'll notice a kind of Ridge that runs in the same direction as the canal the Large intestine runs through.
Hold a knife at a 90 degree angle to that and scrape down through the top layer of bone, be a little careful as not to scrape too deep, you should see a dividing line, that's the seam where the two sides are growing or have fused together. Try to place your knife point or axe exactly or as close the center of that seam as you can get. If you've got the right spot it will split easily.
If not your blade will angle off to one side. It's kind of like trying to hit pages 48 thru 52 of a 100 page magazine, a little bit one side or the other and it's not going to work. Like I said it's a lost art, not easy without lots of practice, hell I'm only successful maybe 1 out of 4 trys. But once you hit the right spot it will just POP right open. If the animal is two years old or less it will most likly still be relativly soft cartilage.
I hope this helps, I'm not very good at explaing these kinds of procedures.
Ask any questions you want and Ill try to explain better.


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Dish washing liquid works fair. As to the pelvic bone, when you are splitting it, drive the point of the knife in the middle, with the edge forward. Then you can lever it toward the front and the back will cut eazy. There is a large muscle in front of the pelvic bone that you need to cut before splitting, but be careful because you are close to the intestine. miles


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I've always done it by driving the point in several times and then pushing down on the knees (animal lying on it's back, and it does help if it's dead). But, I always stay a little to one side of that center seam, much easier to cut through.

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Yeah, dead ones are a lot easier when it's time to split that bone. But I'll keep my hone steel. Bob <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Specially on the ones that ain't dead.


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