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A gas block, is a gas block, is a gas block.
I don't understand why some folks have to overthink sonething so simple?
I'm on another site where there are "builders" that are physicists, aircraft engineers and I think, even some rocket scientists (claim to work for NASA).
They all use AGB's and are constantly boring open barrel gas ports to get more/less "gas".
Then they want to use Loctite to seal the gas block to the barrel!? WTH?
Get everything lined up and tight, and you won't need "no stinking Loctite"! ....to seal the gas block OR lock any screws in place! LOL !

As my late f-i-l used to say, "Cleverly tight!".

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Originally Posted by martinstrummer
A gas block, is a gas block, is a gas block.
I don't understand why some folks have to overthink sonething so simple?
I'm on another site where there are "builders" that are physicists, aircraft engineers and I think, even some rocket scientists (claim to work for NASA).
They all use AGB's and are constantly boring open barrel gas ports to get more/less "gas".
Then they want to use Loctite to seal the gas block to the barrel!? WTH?
Get everything lined up and tight, and you won't need "no stinking Loctite"! ....to seal the gas block OR lock any screws in place! LOL !

As my late f-i-l used to say, "Cleverly tight!".


Interesting Martin. I am for damn sure not a Nasa engineer, and I don't use agb either. No need to. Have a cousin and ex brother in law that worked for Nasa, yad yada yada.. Had an engineer ask what I did for a living in a pizzed off manner once. He was a strange dude, but cool once you got to know him: I guess he didn't like the fact my hand loads were always in the single digit SD's. He thought since he was an aeronautical engineer, his chidt should have been better than mine. It wasn't. Surprising huh??? I use loctite on the gas block set screws. I also "dimple" the barrel, if it is not already done. I don't use a fn jig for that either. No need to. This is all interesting. Hopefully the OP gets it figured out.


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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Measure the length of the buffer tubes internally and springs. There were some proprietary lengths out there at one time, I ended up with a rifle cheap that wouldn't run. Turns out that the carbine buffer tube was 3/8" short.


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Originally Posted by Darryle
Measure the length of the buffer tubes internally and springs. There were some proprietary lengths out there at one time, I ended up with a rifle cheap that wouldn't run. Turns out that the carbine buffer tube was 3/8" short.

I was building my first AR10. When it came to the stock/buffer tube assembly, I figured, "Hey, a buffer tube is a buffer tube."
The rifle (.308) would load and fire, but WOULD NOT function.
Yes sir, I had installed an AR15 buffer tube in an AR10 rifle.
As my kids would later explain to me, "One thing is not like the other....!" LOL!

That was just part of my lesson on "AR15 parts are generic. AR10 parts are proprietary."

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Originally Posted by Darryle
Measure the length of the buffer tubes internally and springs. There were some proprietary lengths out there at one time, I ended up with a rifle cheap that wouldn't run. Turns out that the carbine buffer tube was 3/8" short.

Carbine: 7” tube length
10 3/4” spring
38 coils on spring

Rifle: 9 5/8” tube length
12 1/2” spring
45 coils on spring

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If you are satisfied the gas blocks are aligned properly, but thinking your uppers are undergassed, take the carbine lower, pop out the buffer, and with a hammer and small punch tap out the roll pin that is holding on the rubber piece. Remove the rubber piece, and remove one of the three weights inside the buffer. Reassemble the rubber piece and roll pin onto the buffer body. Test fire. Better? There you go. No better? You can try taking a second weight out and test firing.

If you're undergassed, lightening the buffer may get you running. At that point you can either run a lighter buffer or see about opening your barrel's gas port. Another way to test a carbine lower is with a Sprinco yellow carbine spring. If severely undergassed, you may have to run the lighter buffer and the Sprinco yellow spring together.

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Sometimes the gas port in the barrel is not exactly where it should be. Occasionally getting the gas block properly aligned with the port in the barrel means you can't have the gas block square against the barrel shoulder, or even have the gas block precisely at 12 o'clock.

Pull the gas tube out, loosen the set screws on the gas block, and use a flashlight to check that the holes are mating up. Or pull the gas block and measure everything with calipers.

That said...if all your buffers and tubes and springs are correct...

...and your gas block hole is perfectly lined up with the gas port on the barrel...

And the gun still doesn't cycle...

Then the gas port in the barrel isn't big enough. It is pretty easy to drill them out larger. Just stick an old cleaning rod into the barrel to protect the barrel and run a slightly larger drill bit in, the smallest step up you can, might be 5 or 10 thousandths. The more barrel you have in front of the gas port, the more this increase in gas port size will be magnified.

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I’d try your uppers on a known good lower. If they still don’t work, send them back and let Stag fix them under warranty.

OP wrote “I bought the uppers from Brownells and they were a unit with the barrel, hand guards, gas block, tube and upper receiver already built without the BCG or handle.”

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Contrary to the title of this thread it looks like it is turned into a gas block discussion. Either have a gas block it's real open and buffer it was spring and weight or get an adjustable gas block.
As far as buffer weights go there's a variety of springs to be played with. But you can usually do all by ordering the tungsten weights disassembling your buffer and changing weights in and out and get the correct combination. You can buy three tungsten buffers usually through Amazon or such for around well used to be under 30 bucks but nowadays it might be that much.

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Originally Posted by TWR
I’d try your uppers on a known good lower. If they still don’t work, send them back and let Stag fix them under warranty.

OP wrote “I bought the uppers from Brownells and they were a unit with the barrel, hand guards, gas block, tube and upper receiver already built without the BCG or handle.”


Good suggestion. That's what I'd do too. Seems strange that things are not working with either of them, unless they were both put together wrong by Brownells, or there is a similar defect. Figuring out if there is a blockage in the gas block or barrel is pretty easy to do without having to take schidt apart too. I've personally had a left hand stag 24" Upper and it ran smooth as silk. No issues at all and I tried the upper on different lowers, with the same brand (black rain ordinance). Still ran flawlessly.. Dwell time did not affect anything even with a lower I tested that had a carbine buffer. The rifle length gas system on that upper was very smooth and soft shooting.
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Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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What does your brass look like? Deep scarring from the extractor? Is it ejecting at all? Dirty carbon ring on the neck and shoulder area?

I still think you have a cyclic issue, bolt speed is so fast that it's not giving the bolt catch or next round time to move before it's already headed the other direction.

I built a 358 Winchester upper that did this very thing and a few others. Everyone kept telling me to put an adjustable gas block on it. I read everything on the issue aside from the adjustable gas block band-aid. Then I found an article detailing adjusting the buffer weight to cure the issue. I ordered several H2 and H3 buffers and a few of Slash's Heavy Buffer kits and the H3 solved it. The Slash's kit made it a whole different animal, cutting recoil and improving the quality of the ejected brass. I was getting the little ding from the deflector, with the Slash's kit, that went away as well. Slowing dwell time will improve chamber seal and stop that dirty carbon ring on the neck and shoulder as well.

If you are having extraction issues, remove the double spring and any rubber under there, they are band-aids for poor extractor quality. I use NB BCGs, but keep Tromix extractors and spring kits at the ready, the 375 and 458 Socom will educate you quickly on real extractor quality.


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Brass doesn’t show any signs of stress. It will sometimes eject and sometimes not. When it doesn’t, it will sometimes feed the spent casing back into the chamber. Sometimes it stops just before being locked in battery. I tried the magazine test for hold open, and it never worked. The gas blocks I checked a few times and ran cleaner and compressed air through the tubes to make sure there were no blockages of assembly grease or other fragments. I have seen online where someone drills the port slightly larger, but while I’m capable of that, my luck it will not be the issue and now problems compounded. I have two other AR rifles, carbine and rifle that work great, so I will try switching out the lower for the troubled uppers and see what that does. I don’t know why I didn’t think about that before, it’s so simple. I should have the adjustable buffers from Odin Works today and will try that out if that’s the issue. I’m patient so I will take the time and do it right. Someone mentioned the Silent Captured Springs and that has me very interested after looking around at those. I might have to explore that for down the road.

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Originally Posted by PaintedDesert
Brass doesn’t show any signs of stress. It will sometimes eject and sometimes not. When it doesn’t, it will sometimes feed the spent casing back into the chamber. Sometimes it stops just before being locked in battery. I tried the magazine test for hold open, and it never worked. The gas blocks I checked a few times and ran cleaner and compressed air through the tubes to make sure there were no blockages of assembly grease or other fragments. I have seen online where someone drills the port slightly larger, but while I’m capable of that, my luck it will not be the issue and now problems compounded. I have two other AR rifles, carbine and rifle that work great, so I will try switching out the lower for the troubled uppers and see what that does. I don’t know why I didn’t think about that before, it’s so simple. I should have the adjustable buffers from Odin Works today and will try that out if that’s the issue. I’m patient so I will take the time and do it right. Someone mentioned the Silent Captured Springs and that has me very interested after looking around at those. I might have to explore that for down the road.

They sell fully assembled, quality ARs most places and in my experience they're really great.


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Just tossing this out there, could this be a lube issue, action not operating smoothly?


Gun is drier than phuu.uck?

Just got my first AR and have never messed w em but from my understanding they prefer to run wet.


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Originally Posted by 10gaugemag
Just tossing this out there, could this be a lube issue, action not operating smoothly?


Gun is drier than phuu.uck?

Just got my first AR and have never messed w em but from my understanding they prefer to run wet.

Not likely. That NIB BCG he has is pretty slick. I could run mine pretty dry and it ran like a sewing machine.. Hopefully when he tries his known good lowers all problems will go away. If that is the case, then I'd look at Trigger spring in backwards etc..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Just confirming, you are running .223 ammo WITH a .223 bolt. I did that recently. I put my 6.8 bolt in the bolt carrier and inserted it in my .223 AR. It would push the round into the chamber but obviously, it would not extract. The case just laid there inside of the chamber or on top of the magazine. I had this stupid look on my face for several minutes until I looked at the bolt face. Duhh!! I had to drive all the way home and get the right bolt and then back to the range. 10 short miles round trip.

Anyway, check the bolt face to make sure you have the right bolt.

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Have you tried removing the spring but with the buffer in place and making sure that the rifle will fully cycle by hand and lock back with an empty magazine in place?

You can do this with the upper removed, you need at minimum 5/16" but no more than 3/8" between the bolt catch and bolt face when at its furthest rearward travel.


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Wondering if the op has got this sorted out yet? Tried a proven lower on the uppers?


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Wondering if the op has got this sorted out yet? Tried a proven lower on the uppers?

I have. Sorry for the late response. I did try it on proven lowers and they didn’t work. Same issues as before. It turns out there were a few made with slightly smaller gas ports and they got passed everyone. Long story short, I sent them back to the manufacturer and they will quickly repair and send them back. They were very helpful. I appreciate all the help from all y’all. My next thing with these may be the silent captured spring buffer. Those look and sound like a good thing.

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Originally Posted by PaintedDesert
Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Wondering if the op has got this sorted out yet? Tried a proven lower on the uppers?

I have. Sorry for the late response. I did try it on proven lowers and they didn’t work. Same issues as before. It turns out there were a few made with slightly smaller gas ports and they got passed everyone. Long story short, I sent them back to the manufacturer and they will quickly repair and send them back. They were very helpful. I appreciate all the help from all y’all. My next thing with these may be the silent captured spring buffer. Those look and sound like a good thing.


That is good to hear. I use the silent captured spring system on a couple rifles. They are kind of cool. Needed? No, but they do reduce recoil slightly, said to help with accuracy, are quiet as hell (great for those thin A2 stocks where you hear the "TWANG" of the buffer and spring). I like the Amaspec stealth recoil spring system because it works well and is way less $ than a JP and does the same job. Keep in mind that you will need to buy or make a spacer for your rifle length system, but they just drop right in the carbine buffer tube. I remove the detent that keeps the buffer in as well. The new Gen 3 system looks good and less than $100:

Armaspec stealth recoil spring system. GEN 3


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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