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Originally Posted by Jim_Knight
Uniform neck tension loading to loading is the main other reason.

Wouldn't this be as indiscernible to hunting rifle accuracy as "flash hole deburring/primer pocket uniforming", I mean, within 5-6 reloads?? I usually use the LEE Factory Crimp die for my hunting loads, doesn't that kind of negate the neck tension variable?[/quote]

No sir as you are creating the amount of neck tension of your choosing.



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There’s another way I have not used for quite a while. Get the melting pot going and dip the neck into the molten lead. I might try that method again.


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i always anneal when its needed by the candle method and before i resize brass makes resizing easer too. i noticed a real difference with my used 257 Weatherby mag. brass once i annealed this 257 W.mag brass resizing was much easier too resize in my press. so as has been posted anneal 1st - 2nd resize brass - 3rd reload or maybe trim ?


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Annealing prior to sizing also will increase the ease when the expander ball is pulled back thru the neck. One of the major causes of non concentric necks.


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Down the road I will have to try a few with the candle/wet towel method, see if it gains me anything. I always use a dry neck brush before sizing and even put a dab of Imperial Sizing Wax in the neck with e Q-tip, every 5th round. I also prefer the Elliptical Expander Ball of the Hornady New Dimension dies. I hardly ever load more than 12-20 rds at a time, so sometimes I will "prep" WW/RP, etc. I like to handload as an enjoyable hobby, maybe more than actually shooting. ha

Last edited by Jim_Knight; 05/21/22.
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Originally Posted by mathman
Originally Posted by Jim_Knight
The purpose for annealing isn't for making the brass last longer, that's a side benefit.

Quote
I freely admit I thought that was the whole purpose. What is the use in doing it then?

Uniform neck tension loading to loading is the main other reason.
Dead on!

When I was shooting hundreds of rounds a week I did a number of tests on accuracy. I've posted before on this. The second reload after annealing was the most consistently accourate. I annealed after the 5th reload and started the process again. After that the brass is just too hard for good neck tension. The first reload was never the most accurate. I surmised that another (2nd) sizing uniformed the neck tension a bit. Never tried resizing twice without firing on a first reload. After second reload, accuracy started tailing off due to hardening. On belted cases seldom got more the 11-12 reloads before you could feel the bump of incipient head separation at which point I'd start with another batch. Serious hunting loads were always on the second reload. Never a problem.


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I have heard of the 2nd post annealing firing being the best from a highly respected local F class shooter. After the first 3 or 4 firings of my Lapua brass I anneal at least every other time on my Giraud machine. I'm not concerned about split necks, just uniform neck tension and shoulder bumps.

Hunting brass only gets annealed every 3 to 4 firings.

Last edited by MikeS; 05/21/22.

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One the best things I ever bought.

[Linked Image]


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

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Agreed. I set mine up with a large tank and a pressure regulator to make settings very repeatable.


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I salt bath anneal my target brass every 4 firings. Hunting loads every 3 firings. Target loads are no where near max and I am up to 17 x fired on 6.5x55 Norma brass with no signs of having to replace any of the brass. I only neck size and use a body die to set back the shoulder when necessary. The Lee collet dies do an amazing job and now use them on all the calibers that I reload for. With salt bath annealing the temperature is always consistent and it's very affordable compared to some of the new machines on the market.

Last edited by vmax204; 05/23/22.

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Originally Posted by 79S
One the best things I ever bought.

[Linked Image]

Seems like a rather "Set and forget" type machine, and I like that idea!

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Originally Posted by 79S
One the best things I ever bought.

[Linked Image]

Where to buy?


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Originally Posted by Bugger
Originally Posted by 79S
One the best things I ever bought.

[Linked Image]

Where to buy?

https://annealeez.com/

I bought wheels to also do 300 BO brass. Watch the videos they have as well. These come with one set of wheels. Also extremely fast shipping.

Last edited by 79S; 05/23/22.

Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.

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Originally Posted by Bugger
There’s another way I have not used for quite a while. Get the melting pot going and dip the neck into the molten lead. I might try that method again.

This method is night and day better SALT BATH annealing

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Originally Posted by Seafire
As always I am Mary Mary, quite Contrary....

I have done both, but long ago, settled on Annealing it AFTER I size it.. it being my last step...

Since I have a habit of having batches of brass in a lot of calibers seeing 50 plus reloads...and I have a habit of doing it as far out as every 4th reload.. and over the last 5 years or so, on hunting reloads.. each time.. even if just neck sizing..

guess in conclusion, to not argue with the gentlemen above... I'm not seeing it make any different..

My method is just based on what is the easiest flow for me.. nothing more scientific than that...

but with getting 40 and 50 reloads plus out of brass.. with few casualties, I guess I'm not doing anything wrong...

few guys push brass as far as I do.. but then I find, you don't floor your gas pedal at the powder scale... needing max velocity.. and the brass is stretched back and forth less.. and it hangs in there longer....

and I've been doing this for close to 30 years now I guess... just for times like we are currently experiencing once again, with another Commie DemocRat idiot in the White House....

Where is your brass failing after all those reloads? Cracks somewhere or loose primer pockets?

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Originally Posted by 79S
One the best things I ever bought.

[Linked Image]


Agreed!! I just bought the UGLY Annealer (very similar design) and it was worth every penny. Not just in time saved but with consistent annealing with every case.

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