Fellas, for the last six months, I have taken my addictive personality down the rabbit hole of custom knives. One of the things I am having a hard time grasping is the superiority of a given blade shape as a hunting knife for big game.
Some time ago, I started a thread on my home forum, Alberta Outdoorsmen, asking what the best skinning knife for $200 or under was. On that thread, it is pretty darn clear that two guys in particular, Coiloil37 and Pathfinder76, both of whom are also members here, have a strong preference for the semi-skinner shape that Crotts and Dozier offer in a number of their models. Their posts on this thread have been great, tremendously informative, and many of us really look forward to hearing their thoughts, as they are born out of extensive real life experiences, not internet conjecture. That’s worth something. This is the one they sing the praises of.
My quandary is that big-game hunters in North America, have had access to that pattern for eons, as it is essentially a re-jigged sheep skinning knife, yet they opt overwhelmingly for more traditional drop point, clip point and/or trailing edge designs. Just look at any production or custom maker’s website.
Why is that?
I totally get how a masterful heat treat, coupled with modern steels, and a great grind can result in a knife that can skin 6 animals and still be sharp enough to give your buddy a vasectomy.
So, my question is, is there anything about that semi-skinner style blade shape that is measurably better than any of the other blade styles below for looking after a downed animal from start to finish?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Finally, Happy Independence Day from a Canadian neighbor! Without your fine country being next door, we are speaking either German, Russian or Chinese!
That Dozier in the classic Bob Loveless pattern is hard to be for multi purpose knife. A drop point that makes slitting the hide easy, some belly that makes skinning go well, an applied guard to keep your finger on the handle, a shape that works well inside a chest cavity and certainly able to separate body parts, a very comfortable handle, etc.
If you go to the site mentioned above you see there are about as many opinions as there are people giving them. "Best" is really a personal decision.
Just my 2 cents
Last edited by michiganroadkill; 07/04/22.
"The significant problems we face cannot be solved at the same level of thinking we were at when we created them." Albert Einstein
At Khe Sanh a sign read "For those who fight for it, life has a flavor the protected never knew".
Every ones idea of what is good varies. I like to pout an additional set of jimping forward to let the forefinger set on to guide the blade when you cannot see where it is cutting.
It don't make much difference to me. I own and have used knives with drop point, clip point, spear point, flat ground, hollow ground and sabre ground blades. They all get the job done. Last season I forgot to take a hunting knife on one trip and used my EDC, an Ontario Rat-1 D2, to gut skin and quarter a whitetail. It did the job no problem.
I have used average stuff all my life too. Truth told, most o m knives have been [bleep] knives. I’m well aware a box cutter works great in a pinch too. What I am looking for is someone who can point out something specific with the blade shape/geometry with this particular semi-skinner that would have very knowledgeable and experienced guys singing its praises over other high quality knives from the same maker. This is not a gotcha thread. Or mine is better than yours, which is in part why I showed other knives from the same maker. I am simply looking for any insights that people much more experienced than I can offer. I have ordered one of the knives in my original post, and have every intent of ordering one from Mr. Olt soon also. I just want to do what I can to ensure I am making the right choice. A real smart guy once said, “Wisdom is found in the counsel of may.”
"So, my question is, is there anything about that semi-skinner style blade shape that is measurably better than any of the other blade styles below for looking after a downed animal from start to finish?"
"Measurably better." The answer is NO. "From start to finish." The little Semi Skinner would not be my first choice for a start to finish Dozier design. And I have owned the following Dozier customs, a K2, K4, K6, K7, K8, K9, K11, K20, K28, K29, K31. A K2, K4, or K7 would get my buck dressed, skinned, quartered and deboned more efficiently in my experience and with my personal preferences.
Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
Evnin, tuff call really. I've trapped most of my life, have made some knives (not a knife maker) looking for a shape that would be PRETTY good for everything. I'm 71 & still haven't found it!!! Some come close like the drop point style or the semi skinner. There's a reason for drop points, skinners, filet, pelters, two bladed trappers etc. I'm sure you know the reasons for most. Dad trapped longer than I & preferred a very gradual curve for skinning, I liked a more pronounced curve near the tip. We both clean skinned our beaver, meaning we didn't have much scraping to do when done. Some skin rough & fast & then scrape a lot. Every one is different!!! That's why I have quite a few cheap knives laying around, just wanted to try a different shaped blade. The ones I hated got given to some kid or someone that had an even cheaper knife than I. That's why I made a few knives for myself, different shape. I guess you can see we're this is going, there is no do it all knife. I think but only me maybe, the semi skinner comes the closest. I have such a blade on me all the time but only found it recently, it's a kubey ??? Never heard of them either till about 10 months ago. It has that rising drop point semi skinner blade 3-1/2 in D2 steel. I've only used it on one deer from last season, chores, slivers, rope, fixed an extension cord oh & helped a buddy clean some fish. Oh right $58.00 So far so good!!! Lots of good knives for good prices out there now, SHOP. GWP 👣🐾👣🐾🇨🇦
I've tried a number of different blade shapes and have settled on the semi-skinner as my preferred all-purpose game skinner/gutter.
What works for me may not work for you. I have very large hands and a three inch to three and a half inch semi skinner is perfect for me.
This set has worked very well for me
Edited to add: Tim makes a Loveless DP clone that is damn fine. I have two. Also, the blade shape in your original post is offered by quite a number of makers other that Crotts and Dozier
I’ve been eyeing that top knife. I don’t know if Rick or Rocky made it but I’ve been looking at a similar one Rocky makes. After the two folders come in I think I’ll get in line for that fixed blade.
You guys kill me with all this searching for the best blade geometry. They all work and some work a little better at some chores than others. The biggest difference I see is the sharpness you start with and then it comes down to how much processing you intent to complete before touching up. If you're field dressing and then bringing out the entire carcass than just about anything will work. Heck my brother field dressed a white tail with a hunk of glass because he had forgot his knife. Don't get me wrong, I love custom knives, I own a bunch, and I use them all and they all work just great, some a little better at some tasks than others. Just like some steels hold an edge longer and some are easier to sharpen.
I complete the majority of my skinning with my thumb. I make my hide cuts with a disposable hooked carpet cutting blade.
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. Albert Einstein
Boise, Ok. If anything will work and that's all that's required, then why not just go hunting with a rock? I know from your previous posts you have a nice collection of knives. Yes, almost any knife will 'work', even a piece of glass. Ok. I've done a couple of antelope with a Swiss Army knife.. It was okay. I find a lot of pleasure in researching the different blade shapes, steel types, geometry and trying them out, seeing what works best for me and the critters I hunt. Sure a box cutter or a safety razor 'will work', but that's not going to give me any pleasure. Whoopi Goldberg is arguably female .. G*d forbid, it would 'work' if that's all you want it to do. I'm real happy to have options.
I enjoy the research of outdoor equipment leading up to a purchase more than the purchase itself. Seeking knowledge and understanding of why something may work better than another similar item is a worthy pursuit in my mind. It’s why I am a teacher. Learning in and of itself is a noble pursuit. Others may think such questions are wasting their time. That’s ok. Each time you read someone’s post you learn. Some you learn more from than others. I appreciate them all.
I've taken deer from field to freezer with an old carbon steel Case folding hunter and it was no great hindrance. You guys that think you need the ultimate or that such a thing even exists are a hoot.
I've taken deer from field to freezer with an old carbon steel Case folding hunter and it was no great hindrance. You guys that think you need the ultimate or that such a thing even exists are a hoot.
I’m in Canada, so after currency exchange and shipping, I’m pushing $500 for one of these knives. If that means I can get something that is considered “ultimate” for 5 bills, that’s a no brainer is it not?
Next time rub a rusty old teaspoon on a rock until you have "an edge" you're really proud of and then have at 'er!
Happy hunting!
That old Case went through gutting, skinning, quartering, deboning and butchering without resharpening. I'd like to see you do that with a spoon.
I think you missed my point, but it's no biggie. I'm genuinely glad for you that the Case does everything YOU need it to. Congrats. I have absolutely nothing against the brand or you being satisfied with it.
I've taken deer from field to freezer with an old carbon steel Case folding hunter and it was no great hindrance. You guys that think you need the ultimate or that such a thing even exists are a hoot.
I’m in Canada, so after currency exchange and shipping, I’m pushing $500 for one of these knives. If that means I can get something that is considered “ultimate” for 5 bills, that’s a no brainer is it not?
Yes! Customized specifically to you.. the scales, liners, blade length/shape, steel, etc etc We've all spent a certain amount of $$ on scopes, rifles, reloading equipment, ammo, camo, binoculars, a truck, fuel, ad nauseum. Owning nice knives is a pleasure.
Next time rub a rusty old teaspoon on a rock until you have "an edge" you're really proud of and then have at 'er!
Happy hunting!
That old Case went through gutting, skinning, quartering, deboning and butchering without resharpening. I'd like to see you do that with a spoon.
I think you missed my point, but it's no biggie. I'm genuinely glad for you that the Case does everything YOU need it to. Congrats. I have absolutely nothing against the brand or you being satisfied with it.
I have over 100 knives from cheap factory to custom. Been collecting and using them for about 50 years. The old Case does about as well any. I don't believe there is any such thing as the "ultimate". What works best for you, only you can decide through much use of different blade lengths, alloys, profiles and grinds.
MOGC, Thanks. He makes a hell of a knife, for sure. Is that coffee burlap on your semi-skinner? Great looking knife.
The more I look at the OP Crotts semi, the more I like it. Is that a hollow grind?
Yes sir, coffee bag burlap. This Slim Hunter may be my favorite from Gene, and to the topic, may be my favorite game knife.
Hell ya 👊🏻
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Had him build me a pocket skinner to compliment it.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Another really cool pattern, absolutely love the feel/design, never used it, bought it directly from gene, it’s a 1 of. H225 with armadilla scales…
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
They’ll go to my grandson someday, he can use em if he wants. 👍
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Yes you do, your always the first to see my new ones!! Haha 👊🏻
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Jud The scales on that Rams horn knife are just incredible
Yes, you need to have Rick do a build for ya.. 👊🏻👍
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
I got you beat!! I have like 6 of the Eastman’s exchangeable blade knives, free from my subscription renewals!!! Haha
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
I do got the free Eastman’s knives, they’re in the camp trailer, sxs glove box, couple tackle box’s etc. they work in a pinch👊🏻
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Yeah, They are razor blades after all. Good to have around. Probably good to throw in in the pack. I guess I'll just have to suffer along with my Ingram's
Last edited by longarm; 07/05/22. Reason: Damn phone is on the sauce
sns2; Good morning to you sir, I hope the day's looking to be a decent one for you on the other side of the big hills.
Thanks for the thought provoking questions and of course thanks to those who've responded to make an interesting read.
As you note it's interesting how different folks can do what should by all appearances be the same or substantially similar activities and yet arrive at different conclusions.
My response to this "So, my question is, is there anything about that semi-skinner style blade shape that is measurably better than any of the other blade styles below for looking after a downed animal from start to finish?" would sort of be as follows.
If we're talking deer, sheep, black bear sized animals that we're going to take completely apart right there on the mountain, then it's a different set of knives than if it's only a gut and put onto the dead sled job.
Then too, while my experience working with moose sized animals is much narrower, if it's coming right apart, right there and we're going to bone it out and leave the rib cage, I'd prefer at least one 4" blade for boning the back straps and neck.
Perhaps now I should also add that we've been processing our own game as well as some for friends and family for more than 30 years. Game animals that make it to the yard with the hide on will get hung and peeled here before going into the cooler, which in a good year might mean we'll debark a few more animals than some other hunters not doing that.
This is likely as good a time as any to admit to being a total knife looney too, so the ones in the photos below are the ones that come along these days and unfortunately aren't the entire collection....
We've also amassed a box of meat cutting knives which are mostly commercial Swebo, Victorinox, Hook Eye and Dyck sort of blades.
Here's the fixed blades that ride along.
Left to right - a pair of blades I ground out of Simmonds D2 planer blades with sheep horn scales, an ancient made in Japan Kershaw, a custom inherited from a buddy when he passed which I believe to be cobalt steel, a blank I bought on ebay which was sold as 52100 and finally a Bark River Micro-Canadian in A2
The folders that ride along.
Left to right
Gerber Gator Mate 154CM - one of the first 1000 so it claims, Buck Vantage Pro with the Paul Bos S30V blade and scales by yours truly, Buck Vantage Pro S30V original, Spyderco Centofante III in VG10, ZT 0566 Elmax blade, CRKT Hootenanny in 8Cr13, then at the bottom an Old Timer Slimline Stockman and a Case Trapper.
For which works best for what task, since I'm a "corer" and not a pelvic bone splitter, the little Bird and Trout shaped 52100 blade works great for that. The handle is too small though and if I ever get my bench belt grinder put together, I've got a pattern in mind for a different handle shape that will go up a wee bit in the back like the top Crotts knife does.
For gutting it's usually the Blaze Orange Vantage Pro that does the work as it fits my hand and the liner lock design is super easy to clean.
For peeling hides, the Hootenany shape has about the right belly for my tastes and the cobalt fixed blade with walnut scales is right there too. Not that the others aren't good, but I do like the shape of those two best for skinning.
However all the above said, if the animal is really dirty and has been coated with sand and mud, and it's made it to the yard I'll usually use either the Slimline Stockman or the Trapper as I can use a steel or ceramic rod to touch up the blades faster.
While I have used the assisted opening ZT to do at least one bear and put down at least one vehicle hit deer, they're way harder to clean out if one gets a bunch of blood and fluid down into the pivot, bearings and springs, so the ZT and CRKT don't get used too often for "uncontrolled" work.
Anyways sir, for sure there's many roads to Mecca and this is only where one BC redneck is on my personal pilgrimage to find "the ultimate" hunting knife.
longarm; Good afternoon Dano, I hope that the day down in Oregon is treating you acceptably and you're all well.
Thanks for the positive reply, I appreciate it.
There was a knifemaker out of Calgary I believe it was who was grinding out blades on a disc sander which resulted in a different sort of grind line. I mimicked that as best as I could and cold ground the Simmonds D2 planer blades on a disc sander, but my grind lines are never as crisp as I'd like them to be somehow.
I'll get grinding and worry more about the feel and the shape when I need to pay more attention to some of the details.
Anyway they're cold ground - that is grind and dip, grind and dip - so the result is they hold a fairly decent edge and it's quite tough. It's not as good as say Paul Bos' S30V steel, but a bit better than say a Buck with their standard 420 steel. Not terrible for sure.
Here's another photo of them. The sheep horn was a winter killed California ewe from the mountain behind the house that an old mentor who is long gone gave me when I was first getting to know him. Interestingly we moved to very near where he found the horns - the California bighorn winter just 10 minutes walk up the road from where I'm sitting. Well better said there's usually a couple small herds that winter there.
The last thing I'll mention on using the planer blade as is would be that I was warned it was too brittle, so being me I put a chunk into the vice and tried to break it and then attacked it with a decent sized ball peen hammer on an anvil. Despite my efforts it didn't snap in half, though surely if I would have put a pipe wrench onto it I'm sure I could have made it fail, but typically we don't do that with our hunting knives I figure you know?
As I'm wont to say, there's a bunch of roads to Mecca - some paved and some look more like logging roads in BC or Oregon, so for sure the conclusions I've arrived at are fairly specific to our method of hunting and locality too.
JeffyD; Good afternoon to you sir, thanks for the comment, I appreciate it.
Somehow at an early age I ended up being the kid in the family that'd help Dad process chickens, geese, hogs and moose. My siblings weren't into it at all and maybe it was something that the young me saw as a place I could be useful? Not sure what the motivation was truly, but the one day I was allowed to skip school was moose skinning day when Dad and his brother my beloved Uncle Frank got back from their annual moose hunt in "the bush" along the central Saskatchewan/Manitoba border.
When I started to really get into hunting the first time I moved out to BC in '81 my hunting buddies seemed to hang back when it came to gutting and skinning, so fairly quickly I became the "community evisceration specialist" I guess you could say.
In '89 when my wife and I were both hunting and we hung out with a group who also did, our meat cutter retired and sold his place, so we bought a 22 cubic foot fridge for cooling animals, started buying knives and cutting boards and began to process not only ours but help our friends as well. We had a garage and were sort of set up for it, so it wasn't a huge imposition to help out that way.
When we moved to our rural property that group grew a bit larger for about a decade and a half, so again we got a lifetime of meat cutting compressed into a shorter time. I want to say our busiest year was 13 or 14 deer, a sheep, a few bears and a moose.
Again I'm sorta wired to find fulfilment in being able to be useful in practical ways for others, so it ticked a few boxes in my life personally. Honestly the rewards outweighed the effort several times over for me.
Anyways that's my gutting, debarking, making it into pieces background and I'm certain it's not unique in a place like this.
I will say that I've just "sort of" learned to fillet fish properly in the last couple of years - so that took more than half a century.
sns2: Good afternoon to you sir, thanks for the reply.
You're welcome and thanks for reading my usual non to brief posts.
Perhaps the knife preference too might be somewhat related to the size of the individual using it?
That's a guess on my part since I've only used the medium sized hands that came with my smaller sized body, but it might be a factor?
Years back I started to wrap my head around the thought that for instance how a particular hunting boot worked for an individual had a fair bit to do with the size of the boot and weight of the person wearing it. I had some Prospectors made in Winnipeg and loved them. They gave great support and lasted fine for me. Then I ran into a couple fellows who'd had really bad luck with them - but they were a foot taller than me and nearly double my weight - I'm 5'6" on a tall day and 150lbs.
I'm not sure about much anymore as I head into my 6th decade on the planet, you know?
I'll happily share what works for me and why I'm guessing it might work well for me, but again if something else works better for someone else then I'm honestly happy for them too, you know?
So, my question is, is there anything about that semi-skinner style blade shape that is measurably better than any of the other blade styles below for looking after a downed animal from start to finish?
Sort of. The semi-skinner is a generalist applicable to a lot of tasks rather than a specialist that is ideal for one and sucks for the rest. Those bottom 2 pictures you posted .. I like those. Pretty sure I could get along with them nicely. What we should do, IMHO at least, is get a general purpose design created from good steel with a grip that fits our hand, sharpen the crap out of it, then get busy trying to wear it out. In other words, I think we should focus on developing our skills with a generalist knife instead of trying to compensate for the skills we don't have by throwing money into a special purpose knife for it.
I use all kinds of different shapes. Figure out how to grab whatever knife is handy and use it in a way that plays to its strengths and away from its weaknesses. The only thing y' gotta really do so far as selection is avoid the "stupid knives" .. movie props and the like .. that have no strengths, they're just knife-maker artwork, not practical / functional.
Anyone who thinks there's two sides to everything hasn't met a M�bius strip.
No single blade can do it all. I typically carry three knives and switch between at least two when working up deer, elk, pronghorn etc. Slicing hide/meat is a totally different deal that trying to sever leg or spinal ligaments in tight quarters. It's much easier to take the head off a moose with a small pocket-knife that with a blunt Buck skinner. The one thing I can't tolerate is any knife or handle with perforations or attached clips that might hang up on bone spurs etc.
Your beautiful sheep horn handled knives remind me of traditional Canadian Belt Knives. Were those your inspiration?
I've never used one of them, but a couple of people on this forum think the world of them. For my part, the blade shape is my idea of skinning / meat slicing perfection, with just enough of a sharp pointed tip that getting into tight places while gutting would be very easy.
It seems that you've deepened the part where the handle meets the blade - I've always thought that with its narrow neck the CBK might easily twist in your hand when blood and fat ends up covering everything.
All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing -- Edmund Burke
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
Some beautiful knives here guy's. Well I must admit that most of my work over the last 50 years have been done with Gerbers and buck knives. I just never used any of my custom knives for work knives. So I decided to get a dedicated custom knife made to use as my go to skinner for Deer and Hog's. Thought I would give a McCroskey a try. I'm gonna use it on some pigs at the lease in a couple weeks. I think it's work just fine.
Let me first issue a disclaimer. I am in Texas and I hunt out of a camp. Typically, I do not field dress, rather bring back the animal, whole, hang and go to work. I do not have the occasion to skin elk, bear, moose, etc. I skin more hogs than anything else. So, the following thoughts may not be relevant to your situation. Next, my taste in knifes has evolved over the last ten years or so. I have been fortunate to be able to try quite a few different types and styles of knives, both production and custom.
2nd Disclaimer. I sold a bunch of my knives back in February of this year. IIRC, all of the knives pictured in this reply I still own. I have not asked permission of the new owners to show pix of their knives.
Finally, asking a knife-slut which style he prefers' is kinda like opening a Pandora's box, but.......
So many options from which to choose.
Production or custom? Large or small? Edge retention or ease of re-sharpening Are you hunting out of a camp where weight and space are not a concern. Simple hide removal or caping (no holes in skin). Boner or Nessmuck or Hunter or Semi-Skinner blade. One do it all or a combo pack?
A Nessmuk style knife works great in a skinning knife, but IMHO it does have minor limitations. I like a knife with what I call “belly”. I do not push with a knife when skinning. Rather I pull or flex my wrist in a downward motion. If you think about it, there can be incremental differences between a semi-skinner and a Nessmuk style blade.
Here are four that I collaborated with the maker during what I call my “nessmuk” period. The knife on the left is L6 steel, the other three are “Etched” A2 steel and do not show discoloration and staining like a polished blade of A2.
This may be drawing to fine a distinction, but to me the limitations of a Nessmuck style blade come when caping, taking out the backstraps and separating the ball joint socket on the hinds. I prefer the Semi-Skinner blade profile.........
My idea of perfection in a Semi-Skinner", Etched A2 Steel
or a Loveless drop point hunter style when including those two tasks, over the Semi-Skinner or Nessmuk.
Anywho, play with enough, and I'm willing to bet you'll find what you like!
This particular knife of yours is one of the most badass blades I’ve ever seen. I’ve liked it big time since I first saw it. A true Rick Menefee stunner, in every way…!
This particular knife of yours is one of the most badass blades I’ve ever seen. I’ve liked it big time since I first saw it. A true Rick Menefee stunner, in every way…!
Agreed, I’m gonna have him make me one. 👊🏻
Ping pong balls for the win. Once you've wrestled everything else in life is easy. Dan Gable I keep my circle small, I’d rather have 4 quarters than 100 pennies.
I’m going to sound like a broken record here, but I think the Crotts Semi Skinner in the original post is about as good as a hunting knife gets. I, like any other outdoor enthusiast, like knives. In particular, hunting knives. The problem is, that knife design in many many cases leave a lot to be desired. They look nice, but in use the shine wears off rather quickly.
A hunting knife really has four major functions. It needs to split well, it needs to skin, it needs to slice, and it needs a point for finer work. Caping comes to mind. We will not go into butchering or skinning a locker full of cows. Size of a hunting knife is a personal thing, but a 3-3.5” blade is plenty for most field work in a hunting knife.
Splitting is where most knives fall a bit short. A lot of hunting knives traditionally were clip points. They will have a tendency to dive and will soon fatigue your hand. Slice through your meat. Dull when diving into bone etc. Too much drop and your wrist will tire. Bob Loveless had to be considering splitting when he designed his Dropped Hunter and Semi Skinner.
When skinning you need enough belly sweep to work well. But in my mind, an excessively abrupt transition from belly to point also requires too much lift at the wrist. One aspect of the Dropped Hunter that I do not care for. It also “blunts” the point making it less than ideal for fine work. Keep in mind that I’m thinking of skinning game in the field on the ground. It’s hard enough kneeling or leaning over your work without having to fight your knife at unnatural angles.
Slicing requires a nice thin grind (I like mine hollow), enough flat length, and moderate upsweep to the belly of the blade. Fine work needs a “V” shaped steep angled tip.
So no, I don’t think there is much better than a Dan Crotts Semi Skinner. As another big proponent of this design says. There are a lot of knives that perform these individual functions well. I haven’t found one that does them better.
I tear up a lot of stuff with an A-2 version of the big one.
I'm pretty sure the one pictured is the one Ricky made for me
I can’t remember who’s? One of you men ask me to remove 3/4 inch from the dumpling or boner. The short boner was born. Thank you to whoever! With either of those knives nothing is better in regards to best one knife tool. With full round 5.5 handle distal taper from both ends @.010.Meeting in the middle @ around .150 the knife will work for you while skinning. All things held in account 20+inch radius hollow grind that tapers from the bur to the spine is a must. As multi thermo cycles w/cryo. The icing on top would be a third temper cycle to relieve stress after the 400 grit grinding cycle. Which allows the tool to be stroped unless you get in hair or bone. All the consumer needs to learn is to skin from the inside out and he’s in business’s for life.
Point of interest The sheath is as important as the tool. The “best” top grain leather thats been skived to proper thickness and firmness. Which the stitching lays below the surface. Kydex is wonderful stuff but scratches the [bleep] out of everything.
i wouldnt suggest splitting anything with that crotts knife....d2 is a little brittle compared to some and that blade is awful thin...dont ask me how i know
i wouldnt suggest splitting anything with that crotts knife....d2 is a little brittle compared to some and that blade is awful thin...dont ask me how i know
I’m talking about splitting hide. If you want to split bone carry an axe.
i wouldnt suggest splitting anything with that crotts knife....d2 is a little brittle compared to some and that blade is awful thin...dont ask me how i know
I’m talking about splitting hide. If you want to split bone carry an axe.
When I read it, I thought to myself “Surely he must use a saw!”
I knew you well enough to know that’s you weren’t ever gonna be doin that:)
Few years back, I forgot my saw back at the truck. I had just let the air out of a young bull moose’s lungs at less than 100 yards. Then watched as my 12 year old son, who was 100 yards on the other side of the moose, let go of one with his 7-08. Hit the dang thing an inch away from my hole, as the moose had spun around after I shot him, and was doing the death wobble. Kid thought old dad had missed, so I needed his help. And you know who was a couple hundreds yards further down? Bulletman from Alberta Outdoorsmen. He was 75 at the time. Anyhow, I forgot my saw, so ended up cutting the breastbone with the saw blade on a Leatherman Wave. LOL. It actually worked okay for what it was. Good thing it was a yearling.
I tear up a lot of stuff with an A-2 version of the big one.
I'm pretty sure the one pictured is the one Ricky made for me
I can’t remember who’s? One of you men ask me to remove 3/4 inch from the dumpling or boner. The short boner was born. Thank you to whoever! With either of those knives nothing is better in regards to best one knife tool. With full round 5.5 handle distal taper from both ends @.010.Meeting in the middle @ around .150 the knife will work for you while skinning. All things held in account 20+inch radius hollow grind that tapers from the bur to the spine is a must. As multi thermo cycles w/cryo. The icing on top would be a third temper cycle to relieve stress after the 400 grit grinding cycle. Which allows the tool to be stroped unless you get in hair or bone. All the consumer needs to learn is to skin from the inside out and he’s in business’s for life. Point of interest The sheath is as important as the tool. The “best” top grain leather thats been skived to proper thickness and firmness. Which the stitching lays below the surface. Kydex is wonderful stuff but scratches the [bleep] out of everything.
Rick menefee
The thanks go to you, Rick. The Small Boner (we call it the Humping Dumpling from humping it up all those mountain ranges) has exceeded all expectations. Bezoar Ibex, Hybrid Ibex and Anatolian Chamois in Turkey. Alpine and Pyrenees Chamois in France. That's apart form two years of Red Deer culls at home in Scotland. Headed to Spain next year to finish off this Slam thing with 3 more Ibex.
The more i use them, the more I like a nessmuk style knife.
Originally Posted by geedubya
Let me first issue a disclaimer. I am in Texas and I hunt out of a camp. Typically, I do not field dress, rather bring back the animal, whole, hang and go to work. I do not have the occasion to skin elk, bear, moose, etc. I skin more hogs than anything else. So, the following thoughts may not be relevant to your situation. Next, my taste in knifes has evolved over the last ten years or so. I have been fortunate to be able to try quite a few different types and styles of knives, both production and custom.
2nd Disclaimer. I sold a bunch of my knives back in February of this year. IIRC, all of the knives pictured in this reply I still own. I have not asked permission of the new owners to show pix of their knives.
Finally, asking a knife-slut which style he prefers' is kinda like opening a Pandora's box, but.......
So many options from which to choose.
Production or custom? Large or small? Edge retention or ease of re-sharpening Are you hunting out of a camp where weight and space are not a concern. Simple hide removal or caping (no holes in skin). Boner or Nessmuck or Hunter or Semi-Skinner blade. One do it all or a combo pack?
A Nessmuk style knife works great in a skinning knife, but IMHO it does have minor limitations. I like a knife with what I call “belly”. I do not push with a knife when skinning. Rather I pull or flex my wrist in a downward motion. If you think about it, there can be incremental differences between a semi-skinner and a Nessmuk style blade.
Here are four that I collaborated with the maker during what I call my “nessmuk” period. The knife on the left is L6 steel, the other three are “Etched” A2 steel and do not show discoloration and staining like a polished blade of A2.
This may be drawing to fine a distinction, but to me the limitations of a Nessmuck style blade come when caping, taking out the backstraps and separating the ball joint socket on the hinds. I prefer the Semi-Skinner blade profile.........
My idea of perfection in a Semi-Skinner", Etched A2 Steel
or a Loveless drop point hunter style when including those two tasks, over the Semi-Skinner or Nessmuk.
Anywho, play with enough, and I'm willing to bet you'll find what you like!
…. Whoopi Goldberg is arguably female .. G*d forbid, it would 'work' if that's all you want it to do. I'm real happy to have options.
If you could get your plumbing to work for Whoopi Goldberg, you’re a better man than I!
Hey buddy, That's funny - I don't remember typing that in. Must have been a coupla beers in. Anyway, no sir.. no Whoopi 4 me!
I couldn’t help but take advantage of taking that completely out of context:) Those three little dots … can make a big difference.
Your post was on p.2 of this thread.
Here it is in its entirety:
Boise, Ok. If anything will work and that's all that's required, then why not just go hunting with a rock? I know from your previous posts you have a nice collection of knives. Yes, almost any knife will 'work', even a piece of glass. Ok. I've done a couple of antelope with a Swiss Army knife.. It was okay. I find a lot of pleasure in researching the different blade shapes, steel types, geometry and trying them out, seeing what works best for me and the critters I hunt. Sure a box cutter or a safety razor 'will work', but that's not going to give me any pleasure. Whoopi Goldberg is arguably female .. G*d forbid, it would 'work' if that's all you want it to do. I'm real happy to have options.
__————————-
I think I’d go asexual if Whoopi were the last female on earth! Could you imagine?
Blade is hefty enough to pop joints, the serrated area on the back of the blade is handy when you need to apply some pressure. The shape is good for head to tail gutting and deboning and skinning. High carbon steel holds the edge.
Or get a orange cutco
For those without thumbs, it's s Garden fookin Island, not Hawaii
Your beautiful sheep horn handled knives remind me of traditional Canadian Belt Knives. Were those your inspiration?
I've never used one of them, but a couple of people on this forum think the world of them. For my part, the blade shape is my idea of skinning / meat slicing perfection, with just enough of a sharp pointed tip that getting into tight places while gutting would be very easy.
It seems that you've deepened the part where the handle meets the blade - I've always thought that with its narrow neck the CBK might easily twist in your hand when blood and fat ends up covering everything.
czech1022; Top of the morning to you sir, I hope the day is bright and fair in your section of the planet and you're well.
Sorry that I missed this earlier and just stumbled on it when reading some old threads.
For sure that's my interpretation of a Grohmann shape, sort of the Belt Knife crossed with a Bird & Trout. The 52100 blade I have is a close copy of their Bird & Trout for sure.
One of the things we often neglect to include in some of these discussions - I think - is the size of the user and specifically the user's hands.
I'm 5'5" nowadays and usually buy medium gloves if I don't want the fingers way too long.
A handle that works for me and my hands won't work for someone with larger hands or surely might not.
On the two sheep horn blades I did, if I could figure out a way to cut jimping into the back of the blades better - I'm working on that, truly I am - but currently cutting them in with a cut off wheel and Dremel results in good function which isn't always pretty. Again I'm working with already tempered planer blades to start with.
The shape of the Crotts Semi Skinner, as well as the grind and where he's put the jimping looks awfully close to "just right" to me for the type of work I'll put to a blade.
Again sorry for the delay, all the best and good hunting.