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#17426487 07/15/22
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Dinny Offline OP
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Dealership just called and told me to evaulate how much I like my 2014 Ram 1500 Laramie.

They said the tick is coming from the left and right side lifters. They suspect cam lobe damage and are pricing the repair. Service tech estimated north of $6000.

Internet research shows this to be a common Gen III Hemi issue and there is a class action lawsuit against FCA for this very issue.

For those who have experienced this, did the repair last long? Does this really lead to dropping a cylinder? If so, any idea how long before it drops?

I just looked at the dealership I normally buy from and they only have 4 used trucks on their lot.

I really don't want to spend $6000+ to repair it but I really don't want to drop $50K+ to replace it. I just put in my work resignation and start school in 3 weeks. I'll have a 3hr daily commute when class begins.

Thanks, Dinny


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My work Charger had the same issue and needed a new engine. The car made it a year on the new engine and went to auction. We had a few of the Chargers with the same issue and some went bad again and some did okay. Mostly depended on if folks used the right oil and how much idle time they had.

Either way I wouldn’t keep it if it were me.

My 2014 2500 has the 6.4 Hemi and is still doing okay at 107k. If it needed a new engine today I’d get rid of it. Buying used is a crap shoot too though. New trucks are so expensive a 6,000 engine swap doesn’t look bad.

It was a month before they completed the work on my Charger. And that was a good dealer with a service advisor I trust, with me calling weekly for updates.

Last edited by TakeEm; 07/15/22.

Isaiah 6:8


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Dinny Offline OP
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I'm struggling to learn how the service tech determined it has both an exhaust leak (left and right side had one broken manifold bolt) and bad lifters. It seems one would have to isolate the ticks to say it has two ticks from separate sources. I'm not convinced they could have done that in the time they had it and without tearing into it.


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Before I allowed a dealer to hit me for $6k to replace a cam and lifters,
I'd go aftermarket (Jasper) and price a reman crate engine at a
good independent shop.


Bet you can get a Jasper swapped in for less or similar.
That gets you a nationwide warranty on an engine rebuilt to
at least new quality. Likely better.


OEM often builds components with weak spots.
Accident, mistake, on purpose? Who knows?

But, getting the dealer to put a be cam in might just get
you another cam built of the same steel, heat treat...
Same bad cam?
OEMs are happy to keep having the same bad parts, sometimes
for deades. Especially if they are post warranty problems.


The aftermarket on the otherhand, sees these issues and figures
out how to improve them.

Subaru head gaskets are a great example.
They have used the same schidt design forever, despite the resulting
problems that have damaged their reliability reputation.

It's well known that a Subaru with 80k on the clock is flirting with a
blown head gasket. Replace it with a Fel-Pro, and you won't have another
problem. For hundreds of thousands of miles.


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Originally Posted by Dinny
Dealership just called and told me to evaulate how much I like my 2014 Ram 1500 Laramie.

They said the tick is coming from the left and right side lifters. They suspect cam lobe damage and are pricing the repair. Service tech estimated north of $6000.

Internet research shows this to be a common Gen III Hemi issue and there is a class action lawsuit against FCA for this very issue.

For those who have experienced this, did the repair last long? Does this really lead to dropping a cylinder? If so, any idea how long before it drops?

I just looked at the dealership I normally buy from and they only have 4 used trucks on their lot.

I really don't want to spend $6000+ to repair it but I really don't want to drop $50K+ to replace it. I just put in my work resignation and start school in 3 weeks. I'll have a 3hr daily commute when class begins.

Thanks, Dinny

Happens on them when they are subject to excessive idle (police cars are the worst). Sure it is not the exhaust manifold? I would repair it but would bypass the MDS system if so equipped.

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Did you have them fix the exhaust manifolds? How would that run you? Eliminate the easiest issues first.

If that doesn’t fix it then you know it’s internal.

Oh, almost forgot, is the ticking constant?


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I have the ticking in my 08 5.7 had manifold bolts replaced which didn't help much. The ticking is constant but becomes a little mellower as it warms up but doesn't go away.

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Originally Posted by DANNYL
I have the ticking in my 08 5.7 had manifold bolts replaced which didn't help much. The ticking is constant but becomes a little mellower as it warms up but doesn't go away.


Funny that are the symptoms of an exhaust flange, once it heats up the ticking is minimized.

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Originally Posted by DANNYL
I have the ticking in my 08 5.7 had manifold bolts replaced which didn't help much. The ticking is constant but becomes a little mellower as it warms up but doesn't go away.


I've got ticking on my '12 Power Wagon, and have had broken bolts on the manifold replaced twice now that I can remember. But the dealership isn't looking find things to fix because of my lifetime warranty and $100 deductible. I'll run it till she explodes I guess.


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Dinny Offline OP
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Ticking goes away when it warms up to operating temp. I firmly believe it to be exhaust manifold related. I plan to discuss the issue further with the service manager when he returns my call.


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My own Hemi experience (2004 2500 w/5.7) it was a cracked right side exhaust manifold and a couple of broken studs.

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Originally Posted by PrimeBeef
My own Hemi experience (2004 2500 w/5.7) it was a cracked right side exhaust manifold and a couple of broken studs.
Think cracked exhaust manifolds and broken bolts are due to all of the BS exhaust cats, resonators, huge mufflers and whatever else they think manufacturers need to use to cut emissions. A lot of extra weight hanging around down there.

30+ years ago a cracked exhaust manifold or broken bolts at the head were rare.


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Wonder how rigid the exhaust system is.

A big truck will have a section of flexpipe.
If it doesnt, things will end up breaking.


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Dads hemi tick turned into an engine failure.


This guy has a few videos on the hemi tick:



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Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
Wonder how rigid the exhaust system is.

A big truck will have a section of flexpipe.
If it doesnt, things will end up breaking.
Yep. Went with an aftermarket exhaust on my 08 GMC with 5.3, it has a short section of flex braid.

Aftermarket stuff usually fixes what the engineers from manufacturers couldn't figure out.


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Aftermarket stuff usually fixes what the engineers from manufacturers couldn't figure out.





Very true.

It's unfortunate people don't understand this.
Instead, they think a dealer is the best way to go.
You are going to very likely get your problematic part replaced
with one just like it. At a higher cost.

The aftermarket does have a big advantage though.
It a hell of a lot easier to fix an existing problem than it is to
foresee every possible problem.

The exhaust is a good example.
A dumbass wrench turning truck driver knows this.
But it wouldn't be taught in engineering skewel.
It's not hard to picture a young enginerd given the simple task
of designing a system. And he makes it nice and sturdy.
And cheap. No flex pipe, no flexible hangers.
The engine rocks in its mounts, the manifolds get torqued,
Run a few thousand heat cycles....schidt beaks.




Funny thing about aftermarket.

A lot of the traditional American aftermarket are who build stuff for OEM.
Ford/Gm/Molar, they share more commonly built pieces than
The Fanboys would like to accept.

Complicated stuff like computers are too hard to build to justify.
But even easier stuff, like gas tanks or exhaust. Economy of scale,
And dodging labor costs make outsourcing the way to go.

So you end up with a manufacturer who might be making a part to
OEM spec. With a known flaw, but the OEM wont/can't change the
contract. Meanwhile, they build an improved version to be sold
under their brand, for a lower price to the consumer.


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Great video


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Dinny Offline OP
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I have decided to postpone the cam and lifter replacement. I drained half a quart of oil and replaced it with Stiction Eliminator. Perhaps the ticking lifter noise will go away. For now I'm just having the broken exhaust bolts extracted and replaced.


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So how did things work out? Tick go away with the exhaust manifold fix?

Clyde

Last edited by BLG; 07/29/22.

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Originally Posted by BLG
So how did things work out? Tick go away with the exhaust manifold fix?

Clyde

2-3 weeks until it goes into the shop.


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