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I was under the impression that Africa was drier than a popcorn fart. Nikwax waterproof fabric and leather boot spray is recommended for Gore-Tex boots to preserve the breathability of the Gore-Tex liner.

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There’s no way in hell I am packing a second pair of boots on a backpack hunt.



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Besides waterproofing, the big advantage of pure bees wax is how much it protects leather from cuts and scuffing on lava rock, etc. That would interest me more than the amount of waterproofing needed for dry parts of Africa.

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For leather, Obenaufs is my go-to.

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Originally Posted by pete53
Originally Posted by SuperCub
Originally Posted by pete53
another important thing is drying your boots every nite from your all day sweat too.never had much problem with wet boots .

I use two pairs of work boots and alternate one day to the next. Always have dry boots the next day and no more stinky boots.

that`s great to be able to have two pair of boots , but when i was young with a young family and wearing the best boot for climbing pole work i could only afford in those days one good pair of West Coast climbing boots for a while, then after a while i was able to have the old pair of boots rebuilt by West Coast. this type of boot is expensive but they fit and feel great for the long days on climbers we called hooks ,i shot many deer with a bow wearing my climbing boots after work in my homemade deer stands up in the air 15-20 feet.

Boots are expensive, esp for a young family. While the initial cost is high, I found the long term cost was lower as the boots not only lasted longer from less use but also lasted longer as they were given a chance to dry out after a long day and not being used the next day.

I work in a an oil refinery in all conditions. I get about 3yrs or more from a decent set of work boots.

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If you find a boot that you really really like, buy several pair if you can possibly afford it.

The maker will change them to something you don't like as well, or discontinue them.

About 30 years ago Merrill made an all leather almost seamless lightweight boot that my feet loved. I was leading wilderness camps at the time, hiking a lot from spring through late Fall. After wearing the first pair for a few months I went back and bought two more pairs. Should have bought more of them!

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Originally Posted by Okanagan
If you find a boot that you really really like, buy several pair if you can possibly afford it.
Given the problem of soles peeling off before boots are worn out these days, I don't know if that's sound advice.

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I used Obenauf's on a pair of boots and the rubber rand started to peel from the leather soon after. Not the entire rand, but the edges near the leather. Did a quick internet search and saw many posts of the same. Not saying that Obenauf's is bad, but it might not be compatible with all boots.

I have used Sno Seal on various different makes of boots and never had a problem. Not saying that it is compatible with every boot though either.

So using the boot manufacturer's products might be a good place to start. That stated, I purchased one manufacturer's leather treatment creme and spray, and they simply sucked. Leather got soaked, which then overwhelmed the membrane. And most of these membrane lined boots take a long time to dry once wet. Sno Seal was my solution.

A dunk test in a container or sink is a good place to start, but walking in tall wet grass is even better. I think it is as bad or worse as any rain storm. If the leather gets soaked, it won't be long before the membrane gets overwhelmed.

Last edited by 4th_point; 07/19/22.
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Originally Posted by Okanagan
If you find a boot that you really really like, buy several pair if you can possibly afford it.

The maker will change them to something you don't like as well, or discontinue them.

About 30 years ago Merrill made an all leather almost seamless lightweight boot that my feet loved. I was leading wilderness camps at the time, hiking a lot from spring through late Fall. After wearing the first pair for a few months I went back and bought two more pairs. Should have bought more of them!

Agree 100 percent! I've got a 10yr. old pair of 8" leather hunting boots made by LL Bean. Great boots. Bean has a crappy selection these days, so nothing I'd buy. I always keep a pair of the old Maine hunting boots, but it's not my go to deer season boot.

I used to love Browning boots and owned several. I think Redwing made lots of Browning's boots. Now, neither company has what I like and want.

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Before someone stockpiles boots, they may want to read this.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/15606461/1

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Nikwax applied as directed has worked well for me.

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Originally Posted by Whttail_in_MT
Before someone stockpiles boots, they may want to read this.

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/15606461/1

Why it's best to go w/ a MilSpec boot.


Bought a stack of NOS Belleville USMC Hot Weather boots, w/ the Mera*MAX polyurethane soles, for ~ $35/pop on clearance.

Outstanding lightweight boot that should last forever.


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Originally Posted by jmp300wsm
Obenaufs LP is what I use and it works very well

THIS!


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Never had any issues with leather/ gortex boots and Obenaufs LP. But, I cant say I am exceptionally hard on boots. I mostly hunt in damp or wet cool to cold places.


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I’ve generally used Obenauf’s for full grain leather and Nikwax for nubuck and nylon. That said, I think it’s worth going with the manufacturer’s recommendation in many instances. I have had a few issues with rubber rand adhesives failing prematurely in the edges but am unsure if my waterproofing caused this.

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Originally Posted by 4th_point
I used Obenauf's on a pair of boots and the rubber rand started to peel from the leather soon after. Not the entire rand, but the edges near the leather. Did a quick internet search and saw many posts of the same. Not saying that Obenauf's is bad, but it might not be compatible with all boots.

I have used Sno Seal on various different makes of boots and never had a problem. Not saying that it is compatible with every boot though either.

So using the boot manufacturer's products might be a good place to start. That stated, I purchased one manufacturer's leather treatment creme and spray, and they simply sucked. Leather got soaked, which then overwhelmed the membrane. And most of these membrane lined boots take a long time to dry once wet. Sno Seal was my solution.

A dunk test in a container or sink is a good place to start, but walking in tall wet grass is even better. I think it is as bad or worse as any rain storm. If the leather gets soaked, it won't be long before the membrane gets overwhelmed.

I used Obenaufs on a pair of Kennetrek Hard Scrabble and the rands started lifting on the edges as soon s I started using them. A couple spots went deep from the edge of the rand like an air bubble. I’ve glued them now after my latest use and will see how they hold up. Not sure if there’s something in Obenaufs that reacts with Kennetreks rand glue or if it’s just a coincidence, but I recently bought an insulated pair of Kennetrek boots and bought their leather treatment just in case.

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Originally Posted by Okanagan
Besides waterproofing, the big advantage of pure bees wax is how much it protects leather from cuts and scuffing on lava rock, etc. That would interest me more than the amount of waterproofing needed for dry parts of Africa.
Absolutely!

If Sno-Seal works for you, waterproofing is not required. In my direct experience it will fail in a day of wet walking. Then the leather will stretch and if you are in rough country life will become dicey.


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by Okanagan
Besides waterproofing, the big advantage of pure bees wax is how much it protects leather from cuts and scuffing on lava rock, etc. That would interest me more than the amount of waterproofing needed for dry parts of Africa.
Absolutely!

If Sno-Seal works for you, waterproofing is not required. In my direct experience it will fail in a day of wet walking. Then the leather will stretch and if you are in rough country life will become dicey.
Protection from cuts and scuffs is a big reason why I love Obenaufs, as well.

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I’ve used Obenaufs for past 10 years or so. It preserves leather better than anything else that I’ve tried and supposedly doesn’t clog Gortex membranes. In my experience Gortex doesn’t work all that great as far as breathing but a shot of spray deodorant on my feet and wool socks keep my feet dry.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by Sitka deer
Originally Posted by Okanagan
Besides waterproofing, the big advantage of pure bees wax is how much it protects leather from cuts and scuffing on lava rock, etc. That would interest me more than the amount of waterproofing needed for dry parts of Africa.
Absolutely!

If Sno-Seal works for you, waterproofing is not required. In my direct experience it will fail in a day of wet walking. Then the leather will stretch and if you are in rough country life will become dicey.
Protection from cuts and scuffs is a big reason why I love Obenaufs, as well.
Obenauf's is not in the same zip code with plain beeswax on wear resistance...


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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