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I’ve done this a few times and have the Wheeler/Miles Gilbert Jig. The grinding and fitting is not the problem. It’s the holes for the screws. The darn jig screws tears em up. I know how to make a small incision with an exacto and how to insert the installation screws using soap and no problem with them. But the darn screws that attach the pad to the jig. The real long machine screws. Those always seem to tear up the pad to some degree. How can I reduce or eliminate this?

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You can use a razer blade and make slits where the screws go. Be sure and put some oil on your screwdriver or the pad will grab and it will mar the pad.


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I lube the screws and the screwdriver with Armorall.


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I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.


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Always used an X-acto knife to make an x shaped cut in the pad, push the screw from the back to find the location of the cut. Lube the screw and the screwdriver shaft with vaseline. Been doing it this way for more than 40yrs. with no complaints. When the screwdriver is withdrawn the cuts close and become nearly invisible.

Last edited by gunswizard; 08/02/22.
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Originally Posted by gunswizard
Always used an X-acto knife to make an x shaped cut in the pad, push the screw from the back to find the location of the cut. Lube the screw and the screwdriver shaft with vaseline. Been doing it this way for more than 40yrs. with no complaints. When the screwdriver is withdrawn the cuts close and become nearly invisible.

I essentially do the same with liquid dish soap. Must not be using enough or using the right kind. Again, it's the machine screws of the grinding jig that seem to do the damage.

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.

Did you realize that ArmorAll is actually regularly mixed with Tru Oil for finishing gun stocks?

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Get shorter screws ,you don't need to have them sticking way out anyway, just long enough to hold and lube them up with paste wax before sticking them in the hole in the pad.


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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
I’ve done this a few times and have the Wheeler/Miles Gilbert Jig. The darn jig screws tears em up.

I wonder if you could flatten or round the jig screw thread crest, and polish them to reduce scarring.

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Originally Posted by bcp
Originally Posted by SDHNTR
I’ve done this a few times and have the Wheeler/Miles Gilbert Jig. The darn jig screws tears em up.

I wonder if you could flatten or round the jig screw thread crest, and polish them to reduce scarring.

Bruce
That’s a good idea. The jig screws shouldn’t be threaded full length to begin with. The threads are only needed on the bottom half. It would do less damage if the top half of the screws were smooth.

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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.

Did you realize that ArmorAll is actually regularly mixed with Tru Oil for finishing gun stocks?

And that trick isn't getting much air time anymore either. And it's not just woodworkers who blanche at the thought of Armorall - ask any autobody guy what he thinks of people who constantly spray Armorall on everything. Besides, I'm not a believer in Truoil as a finish anyway - it's gained popularity simply because it's staring you in the face in every gun shop peg board in the country, not because it's God's gift to wood finishing.


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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.

Did you realize that ArmorAll is actually regularly mixed with Tru Oil for finishing gun stocks?

Good luck with that.


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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.

Did you realize that ArmorAll is actually regularly mixed with Tru Oil for finishing gun stocks?
It does not take long for that finish to fail... then the recovery is "special."


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Never been brave enough to try it. Just know about it. I just use a few light coats of truoil and have been satisfied.

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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
I don't let Armorall (and WD-40) anywhere near my work area. The silicone in the stuff will play billy hell with any finish work - one solitary molecule of the stuff will create a fisheye, and once it contacts wood there's no getting rid of it.

I sell large electrical equipment. One of my customers is Toyota. They have a very strict policy of no silicone on their property for just the reason that Gnoahhh said. An employee innocently brought a can into the plant one time and it messed up the whole paint process. It cost them a fortune.

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When I've used tru-oil, I put on many coats. (I need to go back to school on finishing rifle stocks). The first one I did that way was under the watchful eye of the head of Remington's custom shop. The last stock I did, I used many coats of boiled linseed oil and boy did it ever darken the stock.

There's been more than a few threads on finishing stocks here in this forum and there's been some very good advice. Before I do another stock, I'll look into the archives here. I think I did one or two with Spar Varnish, does that name sound right???

I have never heard of ArmorAll for a stock. I've used it a couple of times on a dash of a pickup but I wasn't impressed. I'm with Gnoahh regarding WD40. I go so far to say that I wouldn't use WD40 on a cattle gate. I think it was designed for water displacement not a lubricant.

I couldn't checker a stock to save my life. But I'd try it if it meant a bear hunt on Kodiak with 458Win or a Cape hunt in Texas or Africa.


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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
I’ve done this a few times and have the Wheeler/Miles Gilbert Jig. The grinding and fitting is not the problem. It’s the holes for the screws. The darn jig screws tears em up. I know how to make a small incision with an exacto and how to insert the installation screws using soap and no problem with them. But the darn screws that attach the pad to the jig. The real long machine screws. Those always seem to tear up the pad to some degree. How can I reduce or eliminate this?


Use vaseline on the threads. This thread went way off the tracks. No one uses armor all mixed with tru oil. I didn't think this thread was about stock refinishing, but you can cut tru oil by mixing in mineral spirits. All the so called "gunsmiths" here and no one is giving you a straight answer.. This schidt really isn't that hard.


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I was never real happy with the x-cut method and made a long, small diameter hole punch to cut a small (about 1/8") round hole for the screw to pass through. Stick it through from the back of the pad, one tap with a hammer and done!

To me, two small round holes look better than the x-cut especially after the screws have been in and out a few times.


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Who does an x-cut?
That's a recipe for ugly.
The corners at the intersection are bound to show, probably tear eventually.


A slit just enough longer that the diameter of the head allows the screw
to go through. Then seals up. Many times you need to squeeze the
pad to reveal it.

Last edited by Dillonbuck; 08/04/22.

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Originally Posted by McCray
I was never real happy with the x-cut method and made a long, small diameter hole punch to cut a small (about 1/8") round hole for the screw to pass through. Stick it through from the back of the pad, one tap with a hammer and done!

To me, two small round holes look better than the x-cut especially after the screws have been in and out a few times.

I like that idea! I too have always been bothered by the X cut and its raggedy-ness after the pad's been off and on a few times. For screw lube I too have used vaseline and/or dishwashing liquid - didn't seem to matter much which one was used.

I swear the next one I install I'm gonna epoxy it on as long as there's no through bolt to contend with. Let the next poor SOB worry with refinishing the stock with it on, I won't be around to care. Kidding, of course, but I have thought about it. (And that is indeed a royal PIA. I refinished/checkered a Weatherby Vanguard stock for a buddy here on the fire whose pad was epoxied on, whether by the factory or by a previous owner, and it wasn't fun.)

As far as diluting finishing oil with solvents, that's an old wive's tale too. The solvent doesn't carry the oil with it any deeper into the wood than the oil itself is prepared to go. That's been proven enough times by people smarter than me about this stuff. All it does is makes for more applications necessary in the finishing protocols.


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