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Ringman Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Ackleyfan
Ringman you have yourself a lazer beam.......

Ballistic coefficient G7 of 211. 300 yard zero with mid-range of 3" and only 4" down at 350 yards.


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Originally Posted by Ringman
I was firing Hammer Hunter 131 grainers at 3700 from the 26" barrel. I settled on 96 grains of Retumbo. Lord willing I'll try different primers to discover its favorite. I'm hoping for 1" three shot groups at 300yards.

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dave


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So, .211 G7 BC. That's the 7mm bullet, not the .264 that I talked about earlier. I ran the numbers through JBM.

They go to 5.5 MIL at 1000 yards. So just a tad over a half twist of the MIL elevation turret on the March to go from 0 to 1000 yards. Easy peasy.

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Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Ackleyfan
Ringman you have yourself a lazer beam.......

Ballistic coefficient G7 of 211. 300 yard zero with mid-range of 3" and only 4" down at 350 yards.
I’d rethink that 300 yard zero. With scopes that dial and good holdover reticles these days, there’s no reason. You are just working potential problems into your system. No human can shoot as well at 300 as you can at 100. Zero at 100, where you can see the very center of the X ring and aim precisely. And where environmentals will have much less of an impact. Then cut your dope off that 100 yd zero and just dial up to 300 (if that’s what you’d otherwise want your zero to be) and leave it there while you are out in the field hunting. Or 200. Or whatever. In any case, zero at 100 for precisions sake.

You have a very capable long range scope. Zeroing at 300 is an old way of thinking from back when we wanted to maximize our point blank range.

Just my thoughts.

Last edited by SDHNTR; 08/05/22.
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Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Seefire
Sir, just looking through each Willy nilly or has there been some sort of in depth side by side testing and comparison?

Seafire, I have a military chart at 127 yd on the pump house and a 12 or 13" deer antler at a 131 yd which is in the woods. The scopes I've mentioned were compared side-by-side on various magnifications and in low light to see which one would last after sunset and for how long.

My avatar is a photo of the chart. It's about a foot square.

Interest, never seen that before. What does the chart denote?


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Originally Posted by Seefire
Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Seefire
Sir, just looking through each Willy nilly or has there been some sort of in depth side by side testing and comparison?

Seafire, I have a military chart at 127 yd on the pump house and a 12 or 13" deer antler at a 131 yd which is in the woods. The scopes I've mentioned were compared side-by-side on various magnifications and in low light to see which one would last after sunset and for how long.

My avatar is a photo of the chart. It's about a foot square.

Interest, never seen that before. What does the chart denote?

I don't understand the question. It has smaller and smaller groups of lines so one can easily discover one optic set on the same magnification as another is or is not better.


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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Ackleyfan
Ringman you have yourself a lazer beam.......

Ballistic coefficient G7 of 211. 300 yard zero with mid-range of 3" and only 4" down at 350 yards.

I’d rethink that 300 yard zero. With scopes that dial and good holdover reticles these days, there’s no reason. You are just working potential problems into your system. No human can shoot as well at 300 as you can at 100. Zero at 100, where you can see the very center of the X ring and aim precisely. And where environmentals will have much less of an impact. Then cut your dope off that 100 yd zero and just dial up to 300 (if that’s what you’d otherwise want your zero to be) and leave it there while you are out in the field hunting. Or 200. Or whatever. In any case, zero at 100 for precisions sake.

You have a very capable long range scope. Zeroing at 300 is an old way of thinking from back when we wanted to maximize our point blank range.

Just my thoughts.

Okay, you made a sale. The reticle is pretty much a cross-hair. There is a thick post below the center and thick sides out from the center. I will check their distance on 10X or 12X.

The other day I fired at a gong about 590 yards away. A range friend was watching to see if I hit. There was no dust ANYWHERE around. How many clicks should I have moved the turret to go up approximately 30"?


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Originally Posted by dave7mm
Originally Posted by Ringman
I was firing Hammer Hunter 131 grainers at 3700 from the 26" barrel. I settled on 96 grains of Retumbo. Lord willing I'll try different primers to discover its favorite. I'm hoping for 1" three shot groups at 300yards.

Ringman
Specs on what ever that rifle is please?

dave

I will post some info on "wildcats". It will be 7-.338RUM.


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Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Seefire
Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Seefire
Sir, just looking through each Willy nilly or has there been some sort of in depth side by side testing and comparison?

Seafire, I have a military chart at 127 yd on the pump house and a 12 or 13" deer antler at a 131 yd which is in the woods. The scopes I've mentioned were compared side-by-side on various magnifications and in low light to see which one would last after sunset and for how long.

My avatar is a photo of the chart. It's about a foot square.

Interest, never seen that before. What does the chart denote?

I don't understand the question. It has smaller and smaller groups of lines so one can easily discover one optic set on the same magnification as another is or is not better.

I thought perhaps the lines had significance. From your description it’s just a focal point to compare and contrast two optics against. Sounds a little subjective.


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Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Originally Posted by Ringman
Originally Posted by Ackleyfan
Ringman you have yourself a lazer beam.......

Ballistic coefficient G7 of 211. 300 yard zero with mid-range of 3" and only 4" down at 350 yards.

I’d rethink that 300 yard zero. With scopes that dial and good holdover reticles these days, there’s no reason. You are just working potential problems into your system. No human can shoot as well at 300 as you can at 100. Zero at 100, where you can see the very center of the X ring and aim precisely. And where environmentals will have much less of an impact. Then cut your dope off that 100 yd zero and just dial up to 300 (if that’s what you’d otherwise want your zero to be) and leave it there while you are out in the field hunting. Or 200. Or whatever. In any case, zero at 100 for precisions sake.

You have a very capable long range scope. Zeroing at 300 is an old way of thinking from back when we wanted to maximize our point blank range.

Just my thoughts.

Okay, you made a sale. The reticle is pretty much a cross-hair. There is a thick post below the center and thick sides out from the center. I will check their distance on 10X or 12X.

The other day I fired at a gong about 590 yards away. A range friend was watching to see if I hit. There was no dust ANYWHERE around. How many clicks should I have moved the turret to go up approximately 30"?

Well, first stop thinking in inches and train yourself to think in moa, since you have an moa scope.

To answer your question though, somewhere around 5 moa or 20 ish clicks. Of course there are a lot of unknown variables. A ballistics app downloaded on your phone will prove useful.

Last edited by SDHNTR; 08/06/22.
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Now next question, why not a higher BC heavier bullet? Gain some advantage to all that powder. The days of “flat shooting” are also outdated, imo. Wh ycare about flat shooting and extending your mpbr when we have rangefinders, ballistics aps and scopes that dial?

Last edited by SDHNTR; 08/06/22.
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SDHNTR,

The scope is in mills. I normally think in MOA. This mill thing will be OK once I get a handle on it.


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Quote
I thought perhaps the lines had significance. From your description it’s just a focal point to compare and contrast two optics against. Sounds a little subjective.

When one has two optics side-by-side it's becomes quite obvious if one is better than the other.


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Originally Posted by Ringman
SDHNTR,

The scope is in mills. I normally think in MOA. This mill thing will be OK once I get a handle on it.
Oh, sorry I misread.

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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Yes, meters. Technically, you are absolutely correct. I was trying to dumb it down as much as possible.
👍

I know you know. Just wanted to make sure it was clear for others.

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Damn, can't hardly believe if you spend 3X you wind up with a better optic.

...Color me shocked that anything could knock the ol' 6500 outta the top spot though. Proud of your growth Ringmam!

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