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I had a Remington 40X-BR that had nylon bedding screws like those described that I think were factory installed. The rifle is long gone, but the memories remain.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Also might mention that despite what some believe, fluting a barrel does not make it stiffer
.

Exactly can't remove metal and make it stiffer



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Great discussion and info. Much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Interesting. What's the diameter of the barrel at the muzzle?

Also might mention that despite what some believe, fluting a barrel does not make it stiffer.

I will get a measurement later tonight.

Agreed on the fluting not making it stiffer. I always heard the main benefits were weight and possibly a little more surface area to aid cooling. I don’t care about either (if they even make any REAL difference), I just think they look nice smile

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Originally Posted by MedRiver
...... The stock has been pillar and glass bedded to this barreled action. It was also free floated but does not have much clearance. If I grab the end of the stock it easily makes contact with the barrel.


Keep the tape and shoot as is?

Have my stock guy permanently bed a "speed bump"?

Get aggressive with the stock and hog it out enough to where it won't make contact even if it flexes?


I am open to all three options just curious what the campfire consensus is.
......

I'm mainly a synthetic stock, majority lighter contours, so my input on this may be limited.

I've had success full length bedding, free floating, 2/3 +/- length bedding, and bedding only the shank/part of barrel forward of recoil lug. Of course all of these are with the action bedded.

One more option...to muddy the water.... If the forend is easily making contact, consider bedding the shank/couple of inchest just forward of the recoil lug. This can help to reduce barrel/stock contact further up the barrel. It's an easy route to take if the action/lug are already bedded as mentioned. Just mask off the stock, release agent, build a wall where you want the bedding to end, and tighten it up like you're going to normally shoot it. Again, it may not be the answer, but it can help reduce forend contact.

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Originally Posted by MedRiver
Originally Posted by Mule Deer
Interesting. What's the diameter of the barrel at the muzzle?

Also might mention that despite what some believe, fluting a barrel does not make it stiffer.

I will get a measurement later tonight.

Agreed on the fluting not making it stiffer. I always heard the main benefits were weight and possibly a little more surface area to aid cooling. I don’t care about either (if they even make any REAL difference), I just think they look nice smile

Muzzle diameter is 0.66"

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If I can "easily" touch the barrel to the fore-end by squeezing them together, I don't consider it free floated. I have gotten a lot of guns to shoot better (or start shooting well again if the stock moved with humidity) by giving the barrel a little more float.

You can always add the pressure back, but I think there is a good chance you can give the barrel more clearance, seal the stock, and forget about it.

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Factory rifles would not have a "pressure point" if it did not work.
Guys would not have bedded the barrel to the stock if it did not work.

But I cannot get barrel touching stock to work.
I have rebarrelled and restocked and shot a group ~~ 5 rifles per year for 20 years = 100 free floated rifles.


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Clark,

I have a similar amount of experience in shooting and bedding rifles, and perhaps even a little more. I have encountered a number that shot most accurately with some forend contact of the barrel, mostly notably New Ultra Light Arms rifles--which use full "neutral" contact with the barrel. But they use a very stiff synthetic stock, and forend stiffness seems to be a key--as it has in some other rifles.

But I don't usually prefer forend contact with wood-stocked rifles, because of what I alluded to in one of my previous posts. Unless they're very well-sealed, and the wood very well-seasoned, they may shoot the smallest groups with barrel contact, but point-of-impact can also change with weather.


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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by Sakoluvr
#3, more barrel clearance. This can be hard to accomplish if you have a plastic tip on the stock. The tip on a Rem CDL is hollow, so you can only take so much off!

I like a lot of clearance with wooden stock tips, especially those with tapered fore ends. Those have a lot of flex. If you can't get the clearance you want by sanding the channel, try a skim bed on top of what is already bedded and lift the barrel with tape to give the extra clearance while the epoxy sets up.

You can always go with the speed bump (#2) later. #1 (tape) is a temporary solution that might end up failing at the worst time.

That's the route I'd take...
+2

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When you tried the tape did you wrap it around the barrel or just make a pad of it on the bottom of the barrel? If it’s wrapped all the way around it, the stock could be making contact or grabbing the taped barrel at its 3:00 and 9:00. If you did wrap it, try a smaller pad that only makes contact for about a 1/2”.


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I would glass bed the first couple of inches of the fore end. That's what it appears to be telling you.


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Most of my rifles have free-floated barrels. One wouldn't shoot that way. I used two layers of silicone tape as a barrel bump, and that fixed the accuracy problem. That was in 2014. It is still shooting as it did when I first fixed it.


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I had a couple of rifles I was about ready to give up on.They had factory floated barrels,but those rifles just did not shoot that well.They both averaged about 1.5"-2".I had bedded the lug and tang,but it still didn't help.After several different test loads on those rifles one morning,I was about to go home and I decided to try something different.I folded some sheets of paper and slid them under the barrel from the lug all the way to the end of the barrel channel of the stock,making sure all the folded sheets of paper had about the same tension under the barrel as if it was full length bedded.Instantly loads that shot poorly shot really well and were not too picky about different loads either.Everything I tried shot much better than before.Those two rifles are the only ones out of my collection that I ended up full length bedding,everything else is floated,no pressure points.I blame it on the quality of the stock since both rifles had the same type of stock.Anyway I'm happy with my results.

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I really appreciate everyone’s input. Has been a great discussion. Thanks!

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If not floated, then proper torquing after a disassembly will be needed to get things back to the same POI.


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Originally Posted by 1minute
If not floated, then proper torquing after a disassembly will be needed to get things back to the same POI.

Yep, between tests I used a sharpie to make a mark on the action screws so I could change tape configurations at the range without packing a torque wrench.

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Originally Posted by 260Remguy
If I want contact/pressure between a forearm and barrel, I use neoprene O-rings. Neoprene is soft enough to contour itself to any irregularities and provide constant pressure. It works for me, particularly so with mannlicher-style stocks where the barrel and forearm cap may come into contact with each other.
I placed a 3"x3/4"strip of soft weatherstip foam in a free-float barrel channel one time and it worked wonders.

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Originally Posted by Plumdog
I placed a 3"x3/4"strip of soft weatherstip foam in a free-float barrel channel one time and it worked wonders.

At the range tinkering with a rifle, realized I forgot the cardboard shims I was going to use to play with forend pressure. Looked in my range box, hmm... foam earplugs, 8 or 10 of them under the barrel seemed to get rid of those occasional annoying flyers. That led me to full length bed the barrel with windshield urethane, it shot very well for a few years until It got a new barrel.

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