Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Winchester Collectors Pre 64 Stock Care

Would like to know y’all’s thoughts on cleaning or waxing these stocks. Not looking to repair or improve the current finish just clean and preserve the existing condition.

Would also like to get recommendations on sealing the end grain under the steel butt plates.

I know I read some comments on this before but can’t find the thread for the life of me.

Murphy's Oil Soap will remove dirt and grime without harming the finish. Afterwards paste wax, your choice of Johnson's or Renaissance. I've used both, Johnson's is the more economical choice.

I use old West Snake Oil, Formula No.2 on a clean stock.

Axe Wax after cleaning it. Good stuff.

Ditto on the paste wax. You have to work at it to find a bad one. Ixnay on liquid furniture polishes if they contain mineral oil - the shine is fleeting, and actual protection is nil.

For end grain I like to mix artist's grade linseed oil and varnish, 50/50 give or take. Daub it on, let sit a bit, blot it dry, leave butt plate off overnight then wax it same as the rest of the wood before reinstalling the plate. But like most such things there's plenty of other ways to skin that cat, it's just what I do.

Another vote for Old West Snake oil

Old West Snake Oil is ok, but it's kind of ephemeral in nature in my experience. Kind of like using liquid furniture polish on a piece of furniture - instant dazzle but crummy protection compared to a good paste wax and a little elbow grease.

Johnsons apply and polish off. Works well

The linseed oil and varnish mix is working pretty well and really soaking in the endgrain.

I used the Murphy oil soap diluted per the instructions and at first I thought it removed some finish but what i think due to the location (around the floor plate and toward forend basically left hand position when carrying or firing)the finish was already removed my handling and oils from your hands etc took its place and the oil soap removed that. The color still seems to be there just more dull than surrounding area. I ordered some ren wax which should be here in a day or two. Should I put anything on these spots or just go straight tot he ren wax.

If you start trying to spot in small areas of finish without knowing exactly what the overall finish is, you could open a big box of weirdness, ie: linseed oil when the factory finish is clear lacquer, finishing oils when the original finish was straight linseed oil at the factory, etc. If it were mine I would just go straight to the wax and call it a day. Wax is compatible with anything.

Perfect thanks.