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#17546546 08/25/22
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Going on a Mule deer hunt in early November this year (Montana). I need a Bipod for my Mauser 30-06 M12 rifle to shoot in prone position.

Living in Michigan, I've never had a need for a Bipod, so need some advice on which one to order.

I want it to connect to the swivel stud, and still be able to attach a sling

what size (height) do I need?

thanks

Coop

Last edited by cooperfan; 08/25/22.
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Unless your hunting a relatively flat area (will not be taking any steep downhill shots), or has minimal brush exceeding 2 feet in height…..most any of the quality bipods (with swivel heads to allow leveling of rifle) that will achieve 24 inches in height will suffice.

Any bipod alters the balance and handling characteristics of your rifle! If you foresee conditions other than those mentioned, a longer bipod magnifies this already big negative!

If your hunt does not include a lot of hiking, but will be done mostly via vehicle or horseback…..disregard my negative comments about the bipod.

If your hunting “will” require a lot of walking, irregular terrain, and possible quick offhand shots….consider a set of lightweight, fairly rigid shooting sticks of 48” or a bit more in length! JMO. memtb



Addendum: Fairly rigid shooting sticks also offer a multitude of uses other than a stable shooting platform!

Last edited by memtb; 08/25/22.

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I've used a bipod and shooting sticks.... This year I'm trying a lightweight version of both. Check out Kramer designs snipepod. Lightweight and detaches from the gun easily. I like bipods when you need them, although sometime the terrain limits the functionality. I'm not a fan of the extra weight / balance of the rifle with a bipod attached all the time. YMMV.

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Can you please recommend the "rigid" shooting sticks you referenced?

I like that idea

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https://javelinbipod.com/collections/bipods

This company seems to be pretty good as far as light bipod's and also the ability to take them on and off without too much hassle. I haven't tried one for myself yet, but I believe it's one I'd like to try.


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Hate the name. Hate that I'm even recommending them, but maybe check out Swagger Bipods. They have a cult like following around here.

I just use shooting sticks but I can see the merit of the swagger bipod.

The QD42 looks nice.

https://swaggerbipods.com/collections/hunting-bipods/products/stalker-qd42

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I wish I could find a place where shooting prone for elk was an option. Most of the places you hunt elk you will need to be above the ground a bit to get over windfalls, brush, and other obstacles. That's why I usually carry a Harris 13 -25" bipod on my rifles at all times. Hasn't let me down and hasn't kept me from shooting off hand shots when needed- though it does affect the balance a bit. Easy to attach to your sling swivel stud and you attach your sling to the bipod supplied location.

When it is feasible for possible prone shooting I drop one of their 6-9" bipods in my pack just in case.


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Originally Posted by aheider
I've used a bipod and shooting sticks.... This year I'm trying a lightweight version of both. Check out Kramer designs snipepod. Lightweight and detaches from the gun easily. I like bipods when you need them, although sometime the terrain limits the functionality. I'm not a fan of the extra weight / balance of the rifle with a bipod attached all the time. YMMV.
I’ve been using one of these for many years. It works great. Mine can be used folded up for prone shooting, or extended for sitting shots. The only downside is the sling stud adapter you have to keep attached to your rifle.

These days I rarely carry my SnipePod, as I either use my pack, hiking poles looped together, or tripod, depending on what I have with me at the time.

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Originally Posted by cooperfan
Going on a Mule deer hunt in early November this year (Montana). I need a Bipod for my Mauser 30-06 M12 rifle to shoot in prone position.

Living in Michigan, I've never had a need for a Bipod, so need some advice on which one to order.

I want it to connect to the swivel stud, and still be able to attach a sling

what size (height) do I need?

thanks

Coop

Before I went on a black bear hunt last year, my guide told me to expect shots out to 400 yards. I bought a Harris bipod, then spent several months testing it on a Model 700 in 308 and a Model 70 in 30-06. I also compared it to a target-type sling and shooting over a day pack on the range.

Here’s what I learned:
• Installing a bipod and shooting well with it are not the same thing. You have to learn how to use it.
• Check your zero, then confirm it. The bipod may cause your zero to shift from your bench zero.
• Learn to load the bipod (dig in the legs and lean forward into it) consistently. This affected my group size and increased the perception of recoil, even with the 308.
• Practice going from carry to firing. You’ll probably carry with the bipod folded. If you plan to dial for elevation, then you’ll need to deploy the bipod, get into position, dial, and fire. Identify the best order for those steps and practice so you don’t fumble when the time comes. The first time you try to do these things in a hurry should not be when you have a trophy buck in your sights. Use a shot timer so you know how long each step takes, then work to cut down the time.
• Practice firing multiple shots quickly. Dry fire is OK, but recoil definitely affects your speed and you need to learn to manage it. As noted above, recoil seemed sharper from the bipod, which slowed down my rate of accurate fire, especially beyond 250 yards. That matters because you’ll likely use the bipod only for longer shots. The shot timer helps you see your progress.
• Practice magazine changes—you may not empty your rifle at a buck, but he could drop from view after a shot or two. That’s a great time to swap in a full magazine in case he gets up and starts to move again. Again, use the shot timer to understand and improve your performance.
• Prone may not be available. Train to shoot from sitting and over brush piles, stumps, rocks, and other natural objects. These positions don’t have to be comfortable since you won’t be in them for long, but they do have to be solid. Also, watch your POI as you shoot from these positions. It may shift a bit if they affect how you load the bipod.
• Practice offhand with the bipod installed—you may get a closer, faster shot than you expect.

After comparing bipod, sling, and day pack, I realized that I shot best over the pack. I sold the bipod and trained on the pack. When the time came, I killed a smallish bear at 353 yards with one shot from prone over a brush pile.


Okie John


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If Montana had a standing army, a 270 Win with Federal Blue Box 130's would be the standard issue.
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Originally Posted by okie john
Originally Posted by cooperfan
Going on a Mule deer hunt in early November this year (Montana). I need a Bipod for my Mauser 30-06 M12 rifle to shoot in prone position.

Living in Michigan, I've never had a need for a Bipod, so need some advice on which one to order.

I want it to connect to the swivel stud, and still be able to attach a sling

what size (height) do I need?

thanks

Coop

Before I went on a black bear hunt last year, my guide told me to expect shots out to 400 yards. I bought a Harris bipod, then spent several months testing it on a Model 700 in 308 and a Model 70 in 30-06. I also compared it to a target-type sling and shooting over a day pack on the range.

Here’s what I learned:
• Installing a bipod and shooting well with it are not the same thing. You have to learn how to use it.
• Check your zero, then confirm it. The bipod may cause your zero to shift from your bench zero.
• Learn to load the bipod (dig in the legs and lean forward into it) consistently. This affected my group size and increased the perception of recoil, even with the 308.
• Practice going from carry to firing. You’ll probably carry with the bipod folded. If you plan to dial for elevation, then you’ll need to deploy the bipod, get into position, dial, and fire. Identify the best order for those steps and practice so you don’t fumble when the time comes. The first time you try to do these things in a hurry should not be when you have a trophy buck in your sights. Use a shot timer so you know how long each step takes, then work to cut down the time.
• Practice firing multiple shots quickly. Dry fire is OK, but recoil definitely affects your speed and you need to learn to manage it. As noted above, recoil seemed sharper from the bipod, which slowed down my rate of accurate fire, especially beyond 250 yards. That matters because you’ll likely use the bipod only for longer shots. The shot timer helps you see your progress.
• Practice magazine changes—you may not empty your rifle at a buck, but he could drop from view after a shot or two. That’s a great time to swap in a full magazine in case he gets up and starts to move again. Again, use the shot timer to understand and improve your performance.
• Prone may not be available. Train to shoot from sitting and over brush piles, stumps, rocks, and other natural objects. These positions don’t have to be comfortable since you won’t be in them for long, but they do have to be solid. Also, watch your POI as you shoot from these positions. It may shift a bit if they affect how you load the bipod.
• Practice offhand with the bipod installed—you may get a closer, faster shot than you expect.

After comparing bipod, sling, and day pack, I realized that I shot best over the pack. I sold the bipod and trained on the pack. When the time came, I killed a smallish bear at 353 yards with one shot from prone over a brush pile.


Okie John

I'm with you John. I will use them for shooting in the prone, on varmints and long range silhouette, but not for big game hunting. They are unnecessary, affect balance and add weight. I always have my pack when I'm hunting and have made shots at 600 and 700 yards on deer with it. A pack works great and does not affect the rifle at all, except for the damn strap going over the shoulder. I'd rather keep my rifles well balanced so they point like a fine shotgun. If I need to make a long shot and I can't use my pack, I'll use the nook of a tree, rock outcropping, wood pile, etc. Generally if the vegetation is too thick for a pack, it is also too thick or high for a bi-pod and in that case, you can generally sneak in closer in those conditions. Just how I see it. Use your surroundings and make the best of it.


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by okie john
Originally Posted by cooperfan
Going on a Mule deer hunt in early November this year (Montana). I need a Bipod for my Mauser 30-06 M12 rifle to shoot in prone position.

Living in Michigan, I've never had a need for a Bipod, so need some advice on which one to order.

I want it to connect to the swivel stud, and still be able to attach a sling

what size (height) do I need?

thanks

Coop

Before I went on a black bear hunt last year, my guide told me to expect shots out to 400 yards. I bought a Harris bipod, then spent several months testing it on a Model 700 in 308 and a Model 70 in 30-06. I also compared it to a target-type sling and shooting over a day pack on the range.

Here’s what I learned:
• Installing a bipod and shooting well with it are not the same thing. You have to learn how to use it.
• Check your zero, then confirm it. The bipod may cause your zero to shift from your bench zero.
• Learn to load the bipod (dig in the legs and lean forward into it) consistently. This affected my group size and increased the perception of recoil, even with the 308.
• Practice going from carry to firing. You’ll probably carry with the bipod folded. If you plan to dial for elevation, then you’ll need to deploy the bipod, get into position, dial, and fire. Identify the best order for those steps and practice so you don’t fumble when the time comes. The first time you try to do these things in a hurry should not be when you have a trophy buck in your sights. Use a shot timer so you know how long each step takes, then work to cut down the time.
• Practice firing multiple shots quickly. Dry fire is OK, but recoil definitely affects your speed and you need to learn to manage it. As noted above, recoil seemed sharper from the bipod, which slowed down my rate of accurate fire, especially beyond 250 yards. That matters because you’ll likely use the bipod only for longer shots. The shot timer helps you see your progress.
• Practice magazine changes—you may not empty your rifle at a buck, but he could drop from view after a shot or two. That’s a great time to swap in a full magazine in case he gets up and starts to move again. Again, use the shot timer to understand and improve your performance.
• Prone may not be available. Train to shoot from sitting and over brush piles, stumps, rocks, and other natural objects. These positions don’t have to be comfortable since you won’t be in them for long, but they do have to be solid. Also, watch your POI as you shoot from these positions. It may shift a bit if they affect how you load the bipod.
• Practice offhand with the bipod installed—you may get a closer, faster shot than you expect.

After comparing bipod, sling, and day pack, I realized that I shot best over the pack. I sold the bipod and trained on the pack. When the time came, I killed a smallish bear at 353 yards with one shot from prone over a brush pile.


Okie John
Good post. One more point to add: attend, spectate, and shoot if possible, a local PRS-style match. Most of the bullet points mentioned above are touched on to varying extents by shooting that type of match.

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If you are carrying any kind of daypack, you dont need a bipod.


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Originally Posted by cooperfan
Can you please recommend the "rigid" shooting sticks you referenced?

I like that idea


I made my own from 1/2” fiberglass poles…..the fiberglass strands run linear as to not get fiberglass fibers on the surface. I put a 1/2” slip-on rubber pad on the end with a brass rivet sticking out to give a bit of traction on hard-packs dirt. I lashed them together near the top to give as much elevation as I usually needed. They can be lashed together a bit higher if needed!

We’ve used ours as hiking poles on steep up or down hills, for balance when traveling through deadfall, and to pick our way through a snow covered rock field ( helps find the rocks without busting an ankle by stepping between them! memtb

A couple of photos!

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by memtb; 08/25/22.

You should not use a rifle that will kill an animal when everything goes right; you should use one that will do the job when everything goes wrong." -Bob Hagel

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I still use bipods on our antelope hunts which almost always present some prone shooting situations. Like mentioned above, the rifles are zeroed and drops checked with the bipods in place so the field shooting matches the practice. I like the kind that extend a couple feet and pivot to allow easy leveling and sitting if desired. I can't hardly get my wife to lay prone but she kills stuff dead so I don't say much about her choosing to sit up even when she has other options.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

For deer/elk I have been much happier with shooting sticks and my backpack. The shooting sticks (super fancy setup involving $0.20 worth of paracord and two oak dowels from Home Depot) see more use as walking sticks and support for my binos but they are handy when I need to sit up for a shot.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

I just hate packing around a rifle wearing a bipod. It adds weight and doesn't hang as good on my shoulder.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

On some hunts where I am using my spotting scope, I have a bog tripod with a quick change head so I can throw a yoke on it for a very stable shooting platform.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

They all work.

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Originally Posted by ingwe
If you are carrying any kind of daypack, you dont need a bipod.

I respectfully disagree with this statement. Use of a pack to shoot over implies you will be shooting prone or very close to it. In the country may of us hunt, you simply won't have the opportunity to shoot prone except in very rare instances. There is just too much debris, blowdowns, sage brush, and other growth to get a chance to shoot without some way to shoot sitting. When I was younger I could shoot pretty well in a sitting position, but that was a long time ago. A Harris bipod makes long shots possible in some very rough country , especially when you can't find any other rest to use near you. Even with the bipod, at the first sight of game I often look quickly for a natural rest first before putting down my bipod so I can shoot standing or kneeling.

About the only time I get a chance to shoot prone is when we shoot sage rats on the grass fields where brush isn't a problem. About the steadiest position I ever lock into is with my back against a tree and my bipod down, fully extended. I do this watching large meadows for deer and elk and it is as steady as most bench rests...

Bob


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Originally Posted by Sheister
Originally Posted by ingwe
If you are carrying any kind of daypack, you dont need a bipod.

I respectfully disagree with this statement. Use of a pack to shoot over implies you will be shooting prone or very close to it.
That depends on the pack. Using a full-size frame pack that compresses small enough to be used as a daypack, a guy can shoot from sitting while using the upright pack as a rest.

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Originally Posted by Jordan Smith
Originally Posted by Sheister
Originally Posted by ingwe
If you are carrying any kind of daypack, you dont need a bipod.

I respectfully disagree with this statement. Use of a pack to shoot over implies you will be shooting prone or very close to it.
That depends on the pack. Using a full-size frame pack that compresses small enough to be used as a daypack, a guy can shoot from sitting while using the upright pack as a rest.

Yup, you're probably right in that regard... I have used my pack a couple times shooting prone and it worked fine, but not something I have an opportunity to do often...


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Which region is your Mule deer hunt?

I will add to the list of folks that recommend shooting off your pack instead of mounting a bipod on your rifle. If you are gonna shoot prone, you will take your pack off first anyway, might as well use it as a rest. If you carry a frame pack, it can double as a shooting rest while sitting too.
Trekking poles or shooting sticks are nice and light, and easy to use sitting.

I use trekking poles anywhere steep, or carry the cheap shooting sticks out on the prairie.

I do like a shorty bipod off the bench at the range though.

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I used Harris bi pod for awhile antelope hunting.I use shootingsticks now.The Harris Bi Pod has an eye on the bottom to attach a sling.


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I carried a pair of Underwood Shooting sticks on several hunts. They are the type with the internal shock cord and break down, and fairly light..

Anyway, used them on a grizz hunt in Alaska. Setup on a couple sows to check for how stable my shooting position would be.. fairly good.

That said, killed my grizz at 350 yards, Setup on a flat rock and backpack that ended up being as solid as a bench. I mean I couldn't have been any more solid and comfy !!

I mainly use a bipod on my 22/250 for groundhog hunting in PA, on cut alfalfa fields.

On hunts our west, vegetation usually dictates higher rest.

I'm going on an antelope hunt in Oct., I'm bringing a tripod for my spotting scope, with a shooting rest V attachment, along with the shooting sticks.

Quick setup, drop on the sticks, but longer setup I'll probably use the tripod.

Last edited by hicountry; 08/26/22.
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