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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
I’ve done this a few times and have the Wheeler/Miles Gilbert Jig. The grinding and fitting is not the problem. It’s the holes for the screws. The darn jig screws tears em up. I know how to make a small incision with an exacto and how to insert the installation screws using soap and no problem with them. But the darn screws that attach the pad to the jig. The real long machine screws. Those always seem to tear up the pad to some degree. How can I reduce or eliminate this?

Have you thought of re-engineering the jig to use smaller diameter screws, or at least reduce/re-shape the screw heads if those are what's dragging the rubber? Dunno, I've never used one of those jigs - when I've installed pads I masked off the wood with a couple layers of masking tape and ground the rubber by eye on my 12" disc sander getting it close and finishing with sanding blocks, taking it down flush at the same time I sanded the wood. Always on raw stocks, but once on a previously finished stock which was a real heart-in-mouth experience but it turned out fine.


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When removing the pad I NEVER back the screws thru the x-cut, doing so and not expecting the x-cuts to look shabby is foolish. Duh !

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Well of course, duh. But sometimes screws do need to come all the way out, such as when previous duffers buggered up the screw heads. I had one once that somebody completely rounded out the phillips head screw slots (requiring the services of Mr. Bandsaw in the end) and more than one that the screw heads were so dodgy I prayed the whole time I beared down on the screwdriver in order to slooooowly get get them to back out. One can't in all conscience leave them captured in the pad for the next poor bastard to contend with. Maybe I'm just lucky but I've encountered more like that than completely virgin unmolested screw heads.


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Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
Who does an x-cut?
That's a recipe for ugly.
The corners at the intersection are bound to show, probably tear eventually.


A slit just enough longer that the diameter of the head allows the screw
to go through. Then seals up. Many times you need to squeeze the
pad to reveal it.

^^^THIS^^^
I have used (and suggested) the slit earlier in the post.


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Last edited by richj; 08/13/22.
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Epoxy works too - no slits at all. None of mine have come off.


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I just push the screws into the pad with a little lube on the head and screwdriver shank. For a thick pad I use two screwdrivers and never completely remove them or screws again until finishing. I do not use a jig. Tried one and didn't care for it.

Unfinished stock, I mount pad on stock, apply couple layers of tape and get it close on a belt sander, finish sand by hand to flush.

If stock is finished I put one layer of scotch tape and cover that with two layers of masking tape. I then get it very close and remove a layer of tape. Then get it closer with sand paper and block. Remove last layer of masking and very carefully hand sand to scotch tape. Never had any complaints.

Last edited by old_boots; 08/19/22.
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I use screws long enough that the heads don't need to go through the rubber to hold the pad in the jig and large diameter fender washers that sit just snug enough on the surface of the pad.

When installing the regular screws to the stock, some lube on the heads and a small slit in the pad will result in a nearly invisible mark.

But I'm not a pro GS, just an amateur.


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I agree on keeping petroleum and silicone away from rubber.

I round of any sharp edges on the screws, and use a lube like K-Y from the pharmacy dept.

Cue the jokes, but it works.


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Originally Posted by Paul39
I agree on keeping petroleum and silicone away from rubber.

I round of any sharp edges on the screws, and use a lube like K-Y from the pharmacy dept.

Cue the jokes, but it works.

Where do you apply the lube?


Originally Posted by mauserand9mm
Originally Posted by mauserand9mm
Originally Posted by Raspy
Whatever you said...everyone knows you are a lying jerk.

That's a bold assertion. Point out where you think I lied.

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I'm going try pegs and glue on my next one. Drill a 7/32" hole in the stock screw holes, make pegs to align the stock holes with the screw holes in the pad base and glue it on. I'm thinking Form-a-Gasket might be a good adhesive.

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The problem I have is when I'm having to remove the pad a few times when painting and finishing composites. More that a couple of times and you stand a chance of those little slits getting buggered up or least scarred enough that they're noticeable. What I do with my stocks and if client doesn't mind, with others' stocks, is put the pad in the freezer (overnight if possible). Then I'll take a small drill - smaller than 1/8th but at least 1/16th and drill a hole from the back side out. If the hole is too large I wrap the drill in a few wraps of 1/2-in masking tape about 1/4-in from the end to keep it center-aligned as I drill. I've actually done this with a cordless Dremel which pretty damn slow but higher speed cuts easier. You'll end up with two small holes that don't look bad since the "look like they belong there" and if you do have to remove the pad, your drive won't tear up the pad material.

One other suggestion, I reduce the diameter of all my stock screws heads at least a 1/3 if not by half. I've never had any issues with the pads coming loose but it saves alot of wear and tear on the recoil pad. You NEVER want to permanently attach recoil pad. If you need to take it off, you'll have to saw it off and often that involves damage to the stock . . . and then you end up bringing to an old grouchy SOB like me to fix it.


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I've always just poked a round hole for the screw and lubed the screw and the hole with Vasaline Petroleum Jelly.

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Originally Posted by LFC
I've always just poked a round hole for the screw and lubed the screw and the hole with Vasaline Petroleum Jelly.

Somehow, I don't think we're still talking about recoil pad installation...... 🤔


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