Being new to the forums wasn’t sure if this was the place to ask, but anyway….
Just picked up an X-Bolt HC 6.5 Creedmoor the other day. I have a Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40 I’m going to put on it initially Until after hunting season when I can save up some more $$$ for a better one.
My first thought was I’d get the one piece Talley rings, but after reading about many stripped front receiver threads and the fact I’ll be swapping out the scope in the future (and possibly like to be able to swap scopes on the gun for target vs hunting) I thought maybe a rail would be a better option.
And here I sit with analysis paralysis as usual. Steel base vs aluminum. One piece vs two. I don’t have a tone of money at the moment and would like to keep it around $200 or less.
Would something like the EGW rail and low Keystone rings work OK. Or would a steel rail be better? With the thinking I’d like to mount the rail once so there’s less chance of stripping those front screws by having to mount/remove too much?
Also, would the loctite stick be better than liquid as the two from screw holes go all the way through but the barrel ends about 1/2 way through that hole? Maybe the stick would keep anything from getting into the barrel like liquid dripping?
Thanks for putting up with my question that’s probably been asked a 1000 times.
Don’t go cheap on your bases/rings. They are critically important. For what you want, use a good rail (Talley, Nightforce, Seekins, etc) and same rings or use the Talley 2 piece base and detachable ring system, either the lever lock or screw lock. They are bomber tough.
Have a gunsmith drill and tap out your receiver holes to 8-40 if you’re worried about it.
I much prefer the liquid Loctite over the stick. The stick doesn’t cure as well. Use liquid, don’t use too much and stuff a paper towel up into the chamber if you’re worried about it leaking through
Don’t go cheap on your bases/rings. They are critically important. For what you want, use a good rail (Talley, Nightforce, Seekins, etc) and same rings or use the Talley 2 piece base and detachable ring system, either the lever lock or screw lock. They are bomber tough.
Have a gunsmith drill and tap out your receiver holes to 8-40 if you’re worried about it.
I much prefer the liquid Loctite over the stick. The stick doesn’t cure as well. Use liquid, don’t use too much and stuff a paper towel up into the chamber if you’re worried about it leaking through
The problem I see with the front screws is there’s only about 1 1/2 a 2 threads to grab ahold of. Several rail makers are suggesting using loctite and only 10 in-lbs on them because of this.
I’ve looked at Talley and Seekins. Seekins nothing is in stock anywhere for my scope unfortunately, unless I’m just not seeing it which is possible. NF doesn’t make a rail for the X-bolt as far as I could tell. Talley and EGW was kind of what I had narrowed it to, but y’all know more about it than I do.
Don’t go cheap on your bases/rings. They are critically important. For what you want, use a good rail (Talley, Nightforce, Seekins, etc) and same rings or use the Talley 2 piece base and detachable ring system, either the lever lock or screw lock. They are bomber tough.
Have a gunsmith drill and tap out your receiver holes to 8-40 if you’re worried about it.
I much prefer the liquid Loctite over the stick. The stick doesn’t cure as well. Use liquid, don’t use too much and stuff a paper towel up into the chamber if you’re worried about it leaking through
The problem I see with the front screws is there’s only about 1 1/2 a 2 threads to grab ahold of. Several rail makers are suggesting using loctite and only 10 in-lbs on them because of this.
I’ve looked at Talley and Seekins. Seekins nothing is in stock anywhere for my scope unfortunately, unless I’m just not seeing it which is possible. NF doesn’t make a rail for the X-bolt as far as I could tell. Talley and EGW was kind of what I had narrowed it to, but y’all know more about it than I do.
Steel vs aluminum?
No wonder there aren't a lot of X-bolt fans here..
Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.
No wonder there aren't a lot of X-bolt fans here..
I’ve found every forum seems to steer people to one or two makes, regardless of what they may be, as they all have their darlings. In my position I had a choice of a Ruger American, Tikka T3X, a Sauer 100 XT, Savage Axis, and the X-bolt that I could actually pick up and handle within 150+ mile radius. The Tikka And Sauer LOP was too long for me. The Ruger just felt cheap to me and the bolt was really rough to move, that left the X-bolt. I had no idea about the receiver hole issue until I started looking for rings. All I ever read was that the X-Bolt pattern was a good thing.
No wonder there aren't a lot of X-bolt fans here..
I’ve found every forum seems to steer people to one or two makes, regardless of what they may be, as they all have their darlings. In my position I had a choice of a Ruger American, Tikka T3X, a Sauer 100 XT, Savage Axis, and the X-bolt that I could actually pick up and handle within 150+ mile radius. The Tikka And Sauer LOP was too long for me. The Ruger just felt cheap to me and the bolt was really rough to move, that left the X-bolt. I had no idea about the receiver hole issue until I started looking for rings. All I ever read was that the X-Bolt pattern was a good thing.
Sorry to hear that man. I would have gone with a Tikka personally. But I think I said that in your other thread.. You can only lead a horse to water. You can't make them drink..
Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.
Sorry to hear that man. I would have gone with a Tikka personally. But I think I said that in your other thread.. You can only lead a horse to water. You can't make them drink..
I really liked the Tikka bolt smoothness and trigger, but once I get cold weather clothes on that extra 1/2” LOP was gonna have me crawling up on the stock.
Don’t go cheap on your bases/rings. They are critically important. For what you want, use a good rail (Talley, Nightforce, Seekins, etc) and same rings or use the Talley 2 piece base and detachable ring system, either the lever lock or screw lock. They are bomber tough.
Have a gunsmith drill and tap out your receiver holes to 8-40 if you’re worried about it.
I much prefer the liquid Loctite over the stick. The stick doesn’t cure as well. Use liquid, don’t use too much and stuff a paper towel up into the chamber if you’re worried about it leaking through
The problem I see with the front screws is there’s only about 1 1/2 a 2 threads to grab ahold of. Several rail makers are suggesting using loctite and only 10 in-lbs on them because of this.
I’ve looked at Talley and Seekins. Seekins nothing is in stock anywhere for my scope unfortunately, unless I’m just not seeing it which is possible. NF doesn’t make a rail for the X-bolt as far as I could tell. Talley and EGW was kind of what I had narrowed it to, but y’all know more about it than I do.
Steel vs aluminum?
So the female screw holes in the front bridge are only 2 threads deep? Or your screws only have two male threads protruding under the rail?
I get it now. Forgot about the 4 holes on the X bolt. I looked it up and Browning says 18” lbs. With 4 screws, in theory, I’d be ok with less torque than 2 screw holes.
And doesn’t tally make rings and rails specific to the X bolt and that’s what Browning suggests? Just use those. Why make it difficult?
Put a 20 MOA picatinny rail on it and then bed the rail to the rifle, regardless of which material you choose.
With a picatinny rail, you can swap scopes between rifles, high power for load development and lower power for hunting.
I have a NXS 5.5 - 22 x 56mm that will be my new load development scope. Quality rings and I can swap it between rifles.
I will caution as well about the front 2 screws being shorter and the front two screw holes being easily stripped. I have a 308 X-Bolt that I picked up cheap locally for that very reason. I am going to have the screw holes opened up to 8-40 and have Murphy Precision make a custom picatinny rail for it.
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It is made from 7075 T6 aluminum which is a really strong alloy. The Mountain Tech rings are also very, but the Vortex Pro series are also nice and will save a few bucks.
I don’t know if the offer them for the x-bolt, but if they do, the Burris XTR 2 pc bases are a steel option that are strong, low and still light weight due to their size when compared to a picatinny rail. They are also less expensive than a quality, aluminum picatinny rail.
Last edited by drano 25; 10/03/22.
Don't speculate when you don't know, and don't second guess when you do.
I have the same rifle in .30-06 with a Leupold 3.5-10 in Talley one piece ring mounts. Great combo. Don’t overthink it. Also, don’t overtorque the screws either! 18” pounds sounds right for the 4 screw arrangement Browning uses, blue locktite if you think it’s necessary. You won’t have any problems with this set up.
I have 2 stainless X-Bolts. I mounted 2 piece Murphy Custom Pic bases on both, bedded them with JB Weld, no release agent. I torqued the front screws 15 inch pounds and 25 on the rest. I've hunted them 5 years in the Carpathians without scope problems. I've read some good ring and base recommendations on the above posts, and especially the recommendation to not go cheap on the bases and rings. Excellent choice on the X-Bolt. RJ
I love the looks of S&K and have been very happy with them for years.
I know this isn't a Browning but was better picture than I took.
On my A-bolt I reversed the rear mount
Last edited by kenjs1; 10/03/22.
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