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For quite some time I've thought I might enjoy owning a pistol in 10mm Auto. I can't say I needed one, but I can say there sure was a hankering. I initially thought I wanted a Delta Elite because there's something about the 1911 platform that tickles my fancy, but looking around on the web and reading what many different people had to say about the Delta Elite alerted me to some potential problems with it. Of most concern to me was hit-and-miss accuracy out of the box. I believe that any 1911 should be a viable candidate for accurizing...after all, it's an assembly of many different component parts---but I do not have a desire to go down that path. I began to consider other manufacturers, among them the Philippine-made guns and those of Turkish origins. I decided to go with the Tisas brand, which I understand to be the same as the Girsan branded 1911 pistols but imported by a different firm. The price on the day of purchase was about $630, but only a day or two later it went up to about $720. At this point I still think it's a good buy even at the increased price, but we'll see if that opinion holds up.

The pistol arrived packaged in the ususal polymer pistol case complete with a bore brush, a cleaning rod, a chamber flag, a bushing wrench, and an owner's manual.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



I was pleasantly surprised with the overall feel of quality and the appearance of the pistol. Upon disassembly I was pleased with the dearth of machining marks and the nice fitting of the slide to the frame---smooth, and very little slop. The bushing fits the slide snugly and the barrel is fairly well held stationary in the slide when the pistol is in battery.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



I like the adjustable rear sight on the gun. The sight notch is a little deeper than the one on my Springfield Range Officer and it seems to me that this makes it easier to keep the front sight centered in the notch.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


The checkered front strap is a nice touch as well as the checkered mainspring housing. The workmanship may not be as impressive as a Colt or Wilson Combat, but it's not bad at all and certainly very functional.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



The trigger pull out of the box was not horrible, but of the half dozen or so 1911s I have owned I never was satisfied with the out-of-the-box trigger. Since I have a 1911 sear jig, so I put it to work. The sear jig is great...pretty straightforward in use and quite effective, but the back-cut is always challenging. I screwed up the sear on the back-cut but had another brand new, unmolested sear on hand. With this one I was much more careful, and after adjusting the sear spring found that I had a very nice, clean trigger pull. I don't have a trigger scale and never saw the need to know what it would tell me because I know when I like the feel of any trigger, and I know when a trigger is unsafe. I estimate this one came out to be about three pounds or so..I don't really know, but I know that I like it so I don't care what the number is.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


So, the next step of project was ammo. I rarely shoot factory ammo of any kind and do not intend to buy any for this gun. I have handloaded .40 S&W for about 15 years for practice use and I have a bunch of Missouri Cast IDP #5 on hand, and that's what I'll use for general practice and plinking. I also found a good deal on a 250-piece box of Nosler 180-grain ASP hollow points, and those will be for carry while hunting and occasional concealed carry. I have never used the cast IDP #5 on any animal so I have no idea how well they would work on a charging boar hog. I could be wrong but I think the 180-grain hollow-point would be a much better choice. At some point I may test the theory. I am still kicking around the idea of buying a mold, but I'm busy enough with this gun at the moment and have decided nothing. Suggestions are welcome, but I do want to stick with the 180-grain weight class.

I have three powders on the shelf which I consider to be suitable candidates for the 10mm: W231, Hodgdon Universal, and pound and a half Alliant Bullseye which I had forgotten about. I'd rather not get into the Bullseye so I loaded up 50 trial loads for the cast bullets and 50 for the hollow-points, incrementing by 0.2 grains on each, using Universal and W231.

I had not loaded jacketed bullets for a handgun cartridge since the early 80s (I cast for everything except the .40s). When I seated the JHPs I couldn't help but admire them. They're just so purdy.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]



At this point, my only reservation is that the gripping surface of the grips that come installed on the pistol is pretty rough in texture. I'm writing this up as things progress, so I do not yet know if I like them. I expect fairly snappy recoil with the pistol, and the texture may be hard on the hand. I have yet to fire the pistol, so I'll probably have more to say about that.

Next step will be a range report. Hopefully the weather will cooperate and I'll be able to finish this up in a timely manner.


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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Thanks! Looking forward to the range report!

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Nice, Andrew!!!
The only Tisa 1911 I have is the 1911-A1 clone in 45 acp. As you mentioned, the CNC machining on the slide and frame is great with no machine marks whatsoever. And slide to frame fit is incredible for a handgun that I only payed $329 for ! Mine is accurate and functions flawlessly.
I highly recommend them to anyone wanting a standard GI issue or basic “starter” 1911, and based on my experience with it, would not hesitate to buy any of their other 1911 variants.

As for 10mm’s, I have only two. A Kimber 1911, and a Glock Model 20. I’ve only tried a few offerings of Factory Ammo. Hornady XTP HP’s and the Buffalo Bore 220 gr hard cast Outdoorsman Load.
Both are accurate and both worked well on hogs at the Ranch. I mostly load 180 and 200 gr Hornady XTP HP’s with a max load of AA-9 powder. Both of my 10mm’s really like those handloads, and both work well on hogs & deer.
I bet your new 1911 will work well with the handloads you chose. Can’t wait to read the Range Report on yours. I might need another. After all, a man can’t own too many 1911’s. 🤠

Last edited by chlinstructor; 10/29/22.

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Accurate #7 is also great for the 180s in a 10mm. I don't think I'd use any of the powders you listed, they are pretty fast for a 10mm. Even #7 is pretty fast, but recoil isn't too bad with them. I never tried #9 with my old Colt, but #7 is similar in burning rate to Blue Dot, and Blue Dot could very well be a good choice, too. Back then, (30 years ago), HS-7 was also a good choice (same as Winchester 571).

Try some #7 if you can find it. It's good stuff.


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Thanks fellas.

If I can't reach about 1150-1200 fps using either W231 or Universal, I'll look around at some of these other suggestions. I'm not looking for top velocity, but I don't want just a 950-1000 fps load either. I want accuracy too, of course. I plan to shoot tomorrow morning. I have three additional Ed Brown magazines, too, and I want to make sure all five of my mags work so each one will get a little workout.


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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Silhouette should be high on your list of powders to look for.


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But I had a good life all the way."
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Originally Posted by Son_of_the_Gael
Silhouette should be high on your list of powders to look for.


Thanks. That's another that will be on my radar if I don't see the results I want. I like Ramshot products, and they're usually available and very reasonably priced. I'm trying to avoid adding more powder to my inventory, but I'll do what I need to do!


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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Has anyone tried True Blue?


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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Stellar writing. Like others, I am looking forward to the range report.

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N105 is my favorite powder in the 10mm. Burns super clean with excellent accuracy.


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Longshot will give you the velocity you want pretty easily. I base that claim on the fact that I've run180gr Hitek-coated cast @1150fps from a 4" barrel 40sw using Longshot.

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Originally Posted by RiverRider
Thanks fellas.

If I can't reach about 1150-1200 fps using either W231 or Universal, I'll look around at some of these other suggestions. I'm not looking for top velocity, but I don't want just a 950-1000 fps load either. I want accuracy too, of course. I plan to shoot tomorrow morning. I have three additional Ed Brown magazines, too, and I want to make sure all five of my mags work so each one will get a little workout.

Very nice 1911. I agree with those who recommend slower propellants than you're using. The old standby 2400 should be a good bet along with AA#9.

The 10mm is a magnum pressure chambering and needs the slower propellants to reach it's potential without going over pressure.

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I'm shooting 200 grain lubed hard cast over Longshot for 1200 FPS



I got banned on another web site for a debate that happened on this site. That's a first
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Originally Posted by Bristoe
Originally Posted by RiverRider
Thanks fellas.

If I can't reach about 1150-1200 fps using either W231 or Universal, I'll look around at some of these other suggestions. I'm not looking for top velocity, but I don't want just a 950-1000 fps load either. I want accuracy too, of course. I plan to shoot tomorrow morning. I have three additional Ed Brown magazines, too, and I want to make sure all five of my mags work so each one will get a little workout.

Very nice 1911. I agree with those who recommend slower propellants than you're using. The old standby 2400 should be a good bet along with AA#9.

The 10mm is a magnum pressure chambering and needs the slower propellants to reach it's potential without going over pressure.

Thanks Bristoe. I have lots and lots of 2400, so I may give it a try.

More below.


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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This morning I shot the pistol. It's a mixed bag of good and bad.

I proved no load to be stellar. My loads were the Nosler 180-grain ASP JHP over various charges of both W231 and Universal. Five loads of each powder were fired, ranging from 5.4 to 6.2 grains in 0.2-grain increments. The single exception was 6.2 grains of W231 which clustered four shots in 1-1/4 inch. One of the shots was high out of the group, opening it up to about 3-1/4 inch. I was using some Ginex Large Pistol primers I'd acquired a few weeks ago. I don't think I'll fiddle with either of these two powders anymore...I've ordered a four-pounder of Silhouette as Son of the Gael suggested. I like the low flash aspect of it and I know it will meter beautifully, and the velocities will be there. I doubt I was getting much over 1000 fps this morning (I was too lazy to chronograph, though), and there was a LOT of vertical stringing. My fault? Maybe...but I don't think so.

The gun was evidently pretty tight when I started. The slide locked back on my twice, the first two shots. After that, it did not happen again except when it should have done so. There was one failure to go completely into battery and I think that was probably my 11th or 12th shot. All it took was a little help to finish chambering the round that one time. It did not happen again.

Now for the UGLY.

I intended to shoot some cast loads also after the jacketed loads were fired. I have tons of Missori cast 180-grain IDP #5s on the shelf and have used them for years for .40 S&W plinking and practice loads, and I figured they should be okay for 10mm also. When I loaded up a mag with these cast loads and tried to chamber a round, I found the the gun would not go into battery even with a little help. I also found that I could not retract the slide. Try as I might, it was jammed up about a tenth of an inch from going into battery. So there I sat with a live round in the chamber thinking about what I should do. I could not engage the safety and I could not remove the slide stop. Keeping the gun pointed downrange, I punched the mainspring housing pin out and removed the sear spring. My sear pin fell out, but I found it. I managed to get the hammer out, too. After fiddling with the gun a few minutes, I bagged it all up and brought it home. I was thinking I had a broken link. I was also thinking about a warranty that would be void because I'd shot handloads. I was thinking about dollar bills.

At home, with the recoil plug & spring and the bushing removed, I tapped gingerly on the nose of the slide with a plastic hammer and the slide began to open and I managed to get the live round out. Further disassembly and inspection showed no damage anywhere. Huh. I reassembled the pistol and attempted to chamber another of the same cast bullet load, and you guessed it---locked up. I went through the same moves again to get the slide to open up, which it did---but when it opened the case fell out without a bullet, which remained lodged in the leade of the chamber. The light finally turned on, and I was glad to know it was my handloads tying the gun up and not a mechanical failure that I had not detected yet. The thing is, I've loaded and fired thousands of this same bullet for my XD40 and never had an issue with chambering so I seated the bullets for the 10mm loads about the same as my .40 S&W loads. Seating the bullets a little deeper solved the problem. I uttered a great big "DUUHHHH" to myself.

So it really wasn't so ugly, after all.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The ones on the left were a no-go. The ones on the right chamber just fine.




So...I'd say this may be the most inconclusive range report ever given here. I'll have time to fire the now chamber-able cast loads sometime in the next month or so, but I'll most likely just move on to the Ramshot Silhouette. I gotta go see about putting a buck in the freezer this coming weekend.

I'll give this all another try in a few weeks. Maybe something really good will happen.


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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Originally Posted by RiverRider
This morning I shot the pistol. It's a mixed bag of good and bad.

I proved no load to be stellar. My loads were the Nosler 180-grain ASP JHP over various charges of both W231 and Universal. Five loads of each powder were fired, ranging from 5.4 to 6.2 grains in 0.2-grain increments. The single exception was 6.2 grains of W231 which clustered four shots in 1-1/4 inch. One of the shots was high out of the group, opening it up to about 3-1/4 inch. I was using some Ginex Large Pistol primers I'd acquired a few weeks ago. I don't think I'll fiddle with either of these two powders anymore...I've ordered a four-pounder of Silhouette as Son of the Gael suggested. I like the low flash aspect of it and I know it will meter beautifully, and the velocities will be there. I doubt I was getting much over 1000 fps this morning (I was too lazy to chronograph, though), and there was a LOT of vertical stringing. My fault? Maybe...but I don't think so.

The gun was evidently pretty tight when I started. The slide locked back on my twice, the first two shots. After that, it did not happen again except when it should have done so. There was one failure to go completely into battery and I think that was probably my 11th or 12th shot. All it took was a little help to finish chambering the round that one time. It did not happen again.

Now for the UGLY.

I intended to shoot some cast loads also after the jacketed loads were fired. I have tons of Missori cast 180-grain IDP #5s on the shelf and have used them for years for .40 S&W plinking and practice loads, and I figured they should be okay for 10mm also. When I loaded up a mag with these cast loads and tried to chamber a round, I found the the gun would not go into battery even with a little help. I also found that I could not retract the slide. Try as I might, it was jammed up about a tenth of an inch from going into battery. So there I sat with a live round in the chamber thinking about what I should do. I could not engage the safety and I could not remove the slide stop. Keeping the gun pointed downrange, I punched the mainspring housing pin out and removed the sear spring. My sear pin fell out, but I found it. I managed to get the hammer out, too. After fiddling with the gun a few minutes, I bagged it all up and brought it home. I was thinking I had a broken link. I was also thinking about a warranty that would be void because I'd shot handloads. I was thinking about dollar bills.

At home, with the recoil plug & spring and the bushing removed, I tapped gingerly on the nose of the slide with a plastic hammer and the slide began to open and I managed to get the live round out. Further disassembly and inspection showed no damage anywhere. Huh. I reassembled the pistol and attempted to chamber another of the same cast bullet load, and you guessed it---locked up. I went through the same moves again to get the slide to open up, which it did---but when it opened the case fell out without a bullet, which remained lodged in the leade of the chamber. The light finally turned on, and I was glad to know it was my handloads tying the gun up and not a mechanical failure that I had not detected yet. The thing is, I've loaded and fired thousands of this same bullet for my XD40 and never had an issue with chambering so I seated the bullets for the 10mm loads about the same as my .40 S&W loads. Seating the bullets a little deeper solved the problem. I uttered a great big "DUUHHHH" to myself.

So it really wasn't so ugly, after all.


[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
The ones on the left were a no-go. The ones on the right chamber just fine.




So...I'd say this may be the most inconclusive range report ever given here. I'll have time to fire the now chamber-able cast loads sometime in the next month or so, but I'll most likely just move on to the Ramshot Silhouette. I gotta go see about putting a buck in the freezer this coming weekend.

I'll give this all another try in a few weeks. Maybe something really good will happen.
Silhouette is too fast for performance. You should've bought 4lbs of Longshot.

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3 powders to use in the 10mm-Longshot, Accurate #9 and blue dot. I haven’t seen blue dot in couple yrs. Their is one more Winchester 244. Also do the plunk test when loading ammo, majority of Glock shooter do it. Pull your barrel see if the round will drop into the chamber, if not keep seating bullet until drops in with no problems. One more word of advice get a lee FCD.


Originally Posted by Bricktop
Then STFU. The rest of your statement is superflous bullshit with no real bearing on this discussion other than to massage your own ego.
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This might seem ridiculous to some here, but It shows it's ugly head on "some" Stainless 10mm 1911's.

Galling becomes a problem between slide and frame on some brands when they are new. Stainless on stainless galling is real. Use a good lubricate on the rails until the gun gets a good break-in. If it's bad, you might even have to use RIG gun grease for awhile on the rails. A little goes a long way. Especially in cold weather.


As 79S stated for the other problem your having. The plunk test is good to test your handloads. Also using the Lee Factory Crimp Die is good advise.


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I usually DO go through the plunk test, and the funny thing is I thought I did. I probably got interrupted and that's something that screws me up when I'm trying to make a process work for me---at home AND at work. I positively recall doing it with the jacketed loads.

I think I have some Longshot and if I do it's for 20-guage loads. If I'm not mistaken about that, I don't like the way it meters enough to use it for handgun loads. The Ramshot data I've looked at shows Silhouette will make plenty of velocity but I'm not looking for the fire-breathingest load out there. I think 1200 fps or thereabouts is plenty. I do like the way sphericals meter, too.

As far as the Lee FCD goes, I don't see the need. I've loaded and shot thousands of .45 ACP and .40 S&W rounds, and a plain old taper crimp applied in a separate step has always worked fine. What advantage does the FCD offer? Honest question.

I'm using Shooters Choice red grease on the rails at the moment. I've not seen any signs of galling, but I'll keep an eye out for that.

Thanks for all the info.


Originally Posted by gonehuntin
Give a communist a helicopter ride, he flies for an afternoon. Throw a communist out of a helicopter and he flies for the rest of his life.....



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