Since these vane types are new to me, can these stabilize a full size broadhead, or really only good for expandable? Do you lose much velocity with these longer ones, but gain stability with either type broadhead, but better for a non expanding broadhead ?
I’ve never tried the shrink on type. If they’re straight fletch as opposed to being offset or helical, they’ll not be very good at stabilizing a broadhead.
Literally any fletch works. The short Blazer type vanes and the clones are excellent. Use a 1.5-3 deg offset or helical jig. That AZ mini is bulletproof but the clamp style works good too.
Large fletch kills your down range speed- no need. The key is to tune your arrow to your bow by shooting BH's and FP's for groups. When they hit the same at longer 40,50y distances- you are tuned. Then you don't need much fletch.
Using more fletch to correct your arrows is like putting bigger tires on your truck to solve alignment.
I shoot 3 blazers with big fixed BHS- works great. If I was starting over, I would go to 4 fletch- only due to loading an arrow while hunting without having to look for the cock feather.
"Most people have the will to win, few have the will to prepare to win."
Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out-Art Linkletter
I fletched a few arrows, really found no joy in doing it. So now I use big targets and shoot 1 arrow at each aiming point. I shot all summer and never jacked up one fletch so was quite happy with that. Just food for thought once you figure out what fletching etc you want.
Ok ! So the little roundy looking ones is what I'll get. Have 3 like that already, and they fly great with fp's, just didn't know if I needed bigger vanes for broadheads. I used feathers back in the day. Internal diameter is 6.2, so I know what lighted knocks to get.
Perhaps More important than fletching is The arrow tune & tune to your bow. Suspect I am getting ahead of your learning curve though this is important. Spine alignment & proper point weight for the spine of your arrow is vital. Preferably a heavier point weight as long as your arrow is of proper spine for the point weight (high FOC - High front of center).
With a properly spine arrow for a high FOC point & spine indexed you may be amazed at achievable arrow flight with bare shaft. (no fletching) Achieve this then I prefer small vanes for hunting.
Speed is of less concern to me these days. If RF don't turn you off too much he offers some good advice. While I like nearly all his advice. Grizzly stick happens to be my preferred Arrow & BH vendor.
I've got some Grizzly Stik arrows and heavy broadheads sitting in the basement. I'll have to try those soon. And I'd like to learn more on bow tuning so thanks for the video too.
Bare shaft flies great. The ol lady thought i needed fletch and was watching me test in back yard. Stunned i was hitting the bull at 20 yards w bare shaft.
My paper tune obviously done way close ( 6ft - had moved frame off to side to shoot at D ).
Explained how they were going in straight and that bare shaft is done only with field points.
Week later she watched me stick broadheads in center of my block target, fletched arrows of course.
Checked the 3 rivers dynamic spine calculator and was like 4# off. When i adjusted the shaft length to half inch less ( because longer insert..reducing amount of shaft that can flex ), the calculator showed like .5# diff.
I built a heavier spine arrow w reg insert plus 50gr behind, and running a 175 gr tip.....got same diff.
While both arrows are built to proper spec, the 400s are more forgiving than the 340s.
My 400s w 125 hr heads and 100 gr inserts weigh 500gr. The 340s w 175 gr head and reg insert plus 50gr behind are 535.
Both work fine but the 400s dont stray as much when i get a less than perfect release
On my Mathews Switchback XT I tried the Blazer vanes. They shot my G5 strikers w my field points. For wheels and release and not wanting to worry about wet fletch, Id run em again.
My buds shoot em w fixed blade heads from compounds and have no problems.
They are kinda tall and can have pretty tight cable clearance on some bows.
Folks might do well to check the THP videos on how arrows fly. RFs laugh is horrible, and his delivery is a bit annoying.....the science guy is worth listening to.
Dude i know won the IBO triple crown in Hunter class using the then new NAP quickspins. At ATA we saw how they spun on their display way more than others.
Too much of a good thng. They did cut down speed and past 35 yards it hurt on traj. Note: Hunter class is 35 yards max. LOL.....MBR is 45 yards and those fletches would kill your scores.
NAP came out w a lesser spin version not long after.
Hunting, for.most 35 yards is a rip in the woods. So the reg quickspins proly worked fine.
While shooting all one color fletch can be a convenience in stocking supplies......my chosen setup mandates specific alignment. So I shoot a white cockfeather. Easy visual check. Also, there is a bump/ridge on the nock to physically know where the cock feather side is, without looking. 3 fletch has worked fine for me, but Ive never shot any rig hitting 300 plus FPS. Simply don't shoot 4 fletch, because Ive never needed it.
I've got some Grizzly Stik arrows and heavy broadheads sitting in the basement. I'll have to try those soon. And I'd like to learn more on bow tuning so thanks for the video too.
Do you have the assortment of field points or test pack to find the optimum point weight point weight for your arrow spine for your bow & your shooting form?
I was going through old boxes of archery stuff from the 60's and found full length turkey feathers I have yet to use. Also a receipt from Anderson archery dated 1968 where I paid $16 a hundred for 11/32 port orford cedar shafts. Also my feather burner, a couple hundred nocks, over 120 broadheads from various manufactures, rubber blunts, wire bird tips, field points, 13 fiberglass fish arrows, custom made bow reel, and lots more misc. I use to make wood arrows by the hundred and shot lots of small game, birds, deer, sharks, carp, and a bear. But too old and crippled up to shoot anymore so my bows hand on the wall. I always used a slight helical jig that made six arrows at a time and burned the three feathers to 4 1/2 inches. Always having a radius on the back end of the feather to eliminate some noise. 90 degree cuts seem to bend down in flight and make a slight noise IMO.
(3) 2" Rayzr feathers. All pink. Index on the nock tells me how to put on the string. Couldn't tell you how long g it's been since I looked at an arrow when nicking it on the string or if I do I simply don't notice.
As long as the index is on my thumb we are good to go.
The last time that bear ate a lawyer he had the runs for 33 days!
I started fletching my own cedar shafts over 40 years ago. Mostly 3 fletch with 5" or 5.5" turkey feathers, always helical. Today, I use 4 fletch helical on everything. Longbows and recurves are 3.5"-4" feathers and compounds are 1.5"-2" feathers or vanes.
Pretty much just use Blazer Vanes on arrows for compounds anymore. Used to be a 3) 4" vane guy but the Blazers work remarkably well for me. Even with fixed blade broadheads.
On my Trad setups I typically shoot 3) 4" Feathers.
A true sportsman counts his achievements in proportion to the effort involved and fairness of the sport. - S. Pope
Years ago when I was really into archery, before there were quality graph arrows I shoot a little wood but mostly aluminum with 4 inch Shield Cut feathers and a slight helical.
In the picture above I used Parabolic Cut to use up the last of those feathers. I built those arrows back in the 80s and they have never been used. But I keep them around because I think they look pretty.