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A cocked 1911 isn't comparable to an uncocked SA revolver. Just answer my question, please.
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If you don't know that a Colt SA can fire with the hammer forward you need to study up on single actions.
Learn to keep your finger off the the trigger.
There are 4 simple rules that apply to handling all guns.
Alec and "Shrappy" Baldwin practice unsafe gun handling. Lets hope "Shrappy" gets his act together before another tragic death.
John Burns
I have all the sources. They can't stop the signal.
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An good older one. Run of the mill in comparison to others posted here. Shoots good! I’ll have to work on target pics to post with the pistols.
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To be fair to Burns, a SAA with six chambers loaded has shot a lot of people who weren't touching the trigger.
Cowboys who had a stirrup flipped over the saddle often had that stirrup slip off the saddle and fall down on the hammer, causing a discharge of said SAA. That is why they always said "Load one, skip one, load the other four", or "five beans in the wheel".
Always lower the hammer on an empty chamber on a SAA or old Model Ruger, for that matter, or any of the Italian clone revolvers.
You can roll a turd in peanuts, dip it in chocolate, and it still ain't no damn Baby Ruth.
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Joined: Jun 2002
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Campfire Sage
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If you don't know that a Colt SA can fire with the hammer forward you need to study up on single actions. You're avoiding the question. I'll repeat it. John, please explain how an accidental or negligent discharge can occur as a result of the trigger finger inadvertently depressing the trigger of a single action revolver that's not cocked.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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Campfire Outfitter
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To be fair to Burns, a SAA with six chambers loaded has shot a lot of people who weren't touching the trigger.
Cowboys who had a stirrup flipped over the saddle often had that stirrup slip off the saddle and fall down on the hammer, causing a discharge of said SAA. That is why they always said "Load one, skip one, load the other four", or "five beans in the wheel".
Always lower the hammer on an empty chamber on a SAA or old Model Ruger, for that matter, or any of the Italian clone revolvers. Transfer bar SAs can do the same if the trigger is pressed. Those that try and advocate for unsafe gun handling because of the type of guns are the same who advocate for unsafe gun handling because the gun is unloaded. Alec Baldwin is a recent example.
John Burns
I have all the sources. They can't stop the signal.
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S&W Model 66-3, 3” with XS Sight Systems DXW Standard Dot Tritium sights and Hogue Bantam grip: The full length ejector rod gets them long empties out with no fuss.
Every day’s an adventure.
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Boy Chipy you really have some nice revolves! An ability to modify for function and ascetics too. Just a duffer here by comparison. I do like revolvers. Load and shoot them more often than anything else. Enjoying this thread while working overtime this weekend. Having to search my photo library on my phone for revolver pics I’ve taken over time. Feel inspired now to catolog with pics this winter. Next revolver purchase I’ve been considering is a new 4” Python. Never owned one. They look great and majority of reviews are positive. Here’s a 629-4. Hunted with it awhile back. Had a Burris mounted. Play with it some at the range now. Need to replace the grips someday. I think they came with Houge’s. Almost bought an OEM take off 4” barrel for it but chickened out. It’s current 8+ shoots really well.
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I'm a fan of revolvers. Wish I had more time to shoot them. Here's some DA fun. Top left, S&W 631 32 H&R, top right 38/44 Outdoorsman 38 special, Mtn gun on the left 45 ACP/AR and on the right 41 Mag. The bottom is a 22/32 I frame Kit gun 22 LR. My tastes are pretty eclectic. While the Powermags won't win any beauty contests they are well made and strong. Cool revolvers in my book. 357, 401 and 44 Mags.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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Almost bought an OEM take off 4” barrel for it but chickened out. Swapping out S&W revolver barrels is not particularly difficult, but does require some care and attention to detail. I use a standard bench vice and a large crescent wrench (sounds scarier than it is). I take care in positioning the barrel in the vice jaws within padding cut from thick old woven nylon gun belt so that no part of the barrel can come in direct contact with the steel jaws and no strain is placed on the front sight of a short barrel. I remove the cylinder, but reinstall the crane to provide left side contact for the wrench. After driving out any barrel retainer pin, I place another section of nylon belt over the top front of the frame, making certain that it extends far enough down each side to prevent any part of the wrench scratching the frame or crane. I tighten the crescent wrench over the nylon onto the frame from the top. Then, I start pulling. The barrel will rotate slightly in the vice until the barrel rib, ejector rod front lug or shroud makes hard contact. I now start pulling in earnest. The “crush fit” barrels require more torque than do pinned barrels. If the bottom rear end of the barrel has been ground flat to allow crane clearance, I’m careful to not pull any more than is absolutely necessary to just break the barrel free, so as not to damage the crane. I can then remove the crane and unthread the barrel the rest of the way. Assuming the dimension of the cylinder-barrel gap will be acceptable, as is, when installing a barrel, the trick is to achieve proper sight alignment. Ribbed barrels on adjustable sight models are easy; I just match up the barrel serrations with the sight base cuts in the frame. For round barrels, I look down the bore from the muzzle until the firing pin hole appears to be top dead center at the rear of the bore, then quickly shift my vision to see how the front sight appears in relation to the rear notch, turning the barrel minutely in or out till it looks right. Unless there is something peculiar about the barrel or frame, this method works darn well for me, as can be seen in earlier photos. I’ve heard tell of others using a long chunk of hardwood through the cylinder window as a makeshift “action wrench.” But, that poses a substantial risk of warping the frame at its thin topstrap and crane recess, particularly with stubborn “crush fit” barrels. Best to use a proper action wrench or a method which confines applied torque to the threaded portion of the frame alone, as above.
Every day’s an adventure.
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Didn’t take long for a cool thread to turn into a pissing match as usual. Judicious use of the ignore button can help that a lot.
'Four legs good, two legs baaaad." ---------------------------------------------- "Jimmy, some of it's magic, Some of it's tragic, But I had a good life all the way." (Jimmy Buffett)
SotG
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It’s hard not to like 44 Specials. S&W 624 Bisley 44 Special in a Barranti EK #5
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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S&W 45 Colt 25-13 Mountain Gun, Purdy leather, Jawbone knife, elk antler grips/handle.
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It’s hard not to like 44 Specials. S&W 624 You’re certainly right about that! I think 624s are most beauteous specimens, and I’ve been sorely tempted to acquire one on a number of occasions. My problem is, N-Frame .44s and I just don’t seem to get along well. Biggest I can properly handle is the L-Frame 696:
Every day’s an adventure.
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That 696 is a great looking gun. Ain’t to shabby on the shootin side of things by the looks of that target.
Chronographs, bore scopes and pattern boards have broke a lot of hearts.
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S&W 45 Colt 25-13 Mountain Gun, Purdy leather, Jawbone knife, elk antler grips/handle. Is that a bronze Tyler T-Grip?
Every day’s an adventure.
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Exchippy:
Is that a bronze Tyler T-Grip?[/quote]
Yessir Mr. Exchippy, it's bronze.
Regards,
Manny
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That 696 is a great looking gun. Ain’t to shabby on the shootin side of things by the looks of that target. Thank you, sir. With the thin forcing cone of the 696, it’s been recommended that 7 grains of Unique be considered as maximum. And, this revolver is such an excellent specimen, it’s not worth risking. The cast 240gr. SWCGC over 6.8 Unique did turn in some noteworthy performance, though, and carries a fair punch too. Couldn’t tell where the fifth round is hiding. That low hole does look a wee bit large, or it could be mixed in with the two on the right. One of life’s mysteries, I suppose.
Every day’s an adventure.
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Is that a bronze Tyler T-Grip? Yessir Mr. Exchippy, it's bronze. Regards, Manny Got a bronze T-Grip for a friend’s Black Nitride treated 2” S&W Model 15 as his birthday present. Delivery took eleven months after check cashing, but worth the wait. Very distinguished looking, eh?
Every day’s an adventure.
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S&W 45 Colt 25-13 Mountain Gun, Purdy leather, Jawbone knife, elk antler grips/handle. Nice. That's a higher polish blue than I'd have expected to see on a Mountain Gun.
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