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Joined: Feb 2001
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The boy bought A Ruger American in that caliber, and sent me 100 223 grn Hornadeys and 100 Lapouha brass.
I’ve got a bunch of H335 on hand, and large rifle primers to boot.
The dies are ordered, and should be here tomorrow.
Now what.
I’ve never done this before, although I’ve been hand loading for 40 + years.
Where do I start?
7mm


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Lyman reloading manual. Has various powder charges from various vendors with various bullet weights.

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Good basic caliber... Enjoy.


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Ruger used 308 barrel on older mini 30s, then started making barrels 310/311. I guess they were concerned with surplus ammo and pressure.
Point being, you may want to have the proper diameter bullets for the American barrel.
I tried 308 bullets in a SKS, and they were undersized.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/7.62%C3%9739mm

Last edited by Terryk; 11/22/22.
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Its not any different than loading any other cartridge that you have been loading over the last 40 years. Find load data either in a manual or online, start low and work your way up. The only catch is some brass uses small rifle primers instead of large but I haven't seen those lately.

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Other than to say that I've had well over half a million of them fired at me, I have no input for the round.


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I’m in the same boat as Rocky, but note the muzzle flash from an AK makes a terrific target. And the AP core bounces off my boot heel. Wait before you pick them up as they will be very hot.


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It's a 7.62mm(.308) at 2400fps, or so.


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I have always been a huge fan of the Bofors steel, made in Finland, Sako Riihimaki, I've owned a .222 and a Hornet. Saw one in 7.62X39 once and still kick myself today for not buying it.


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I bought a Ruger ranch rifle this summer in 7.62x39 and a case of Norma tactical 124gr. fmj to practice with. Listed velocity for the Norma is 2430 fps. The ranch rifle got 2365 fps out of it's 16.2 inch barrel.

I'm loading the empty brass with 123gr Hornady SPs and RL7. That's the best powder I had for this cartridge. I've picked up some CFEBLK and will try it later. In the meantime, I think the RL7 load will work just fine.


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I had no idea Lapouha made 7.62x39 brass or Hornadey made 223gr bullets.

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AA1680

Also, 71 grain bullets intended for the .32 auto are the proper diameter and you can really spit them with anything from 2400 to 296 in the 7.62X39.

Hornady 100 grain XTPs are good for varmint loads, also. They're explosive at the velocities that the 7.62X39 will throw them.

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Gun Parts Co. used to sell a sporter conversion kit for small ring Mausers- - - -a short-chambered .308 barrel with the small ring thread, and a spring, follower, and spacer to shorten the magazine well to the proper length to feed the 7.62 X 39 cartridge reliably. I built one for my granddaughter's first deer rifle, with a 3X9X40 scope, in a synthetic stock. She took her first deer with it at age 13. I loaded it with Hornady 130 grain .308 spire points at about 2200 FPS.


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Originally Posted by Stammster
I had no idea Lapouha made 7.62x39 brass or Hornadey made 223gr bullets.
All new to me as well ! Lol.
On serious note. My cz 527 carbine shoots the basic silver bears at moa +/-.
Love they little gun and caliber is very underrated. 30/30 like in a bolt action


All of them do something better than the 30-06, but none of them do everything as well.
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Sounds like he wants a basic subsonic load for shooting suppressed similar to a 300 blackout. I can’t see spending money on Lapua brass for that but to each is own.

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I did an overload work up on an SKS. The first pressure sign bent the firing pin.


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A round to ponder possibilities?
Often considered it in a bolt gun , but never got around to it
SKS for price was a winner when you could snag em for 70-80 bucks and 70.00 per thousand rds .
Then there were the polytech AK’s for around 200 give or take
Not tack drivers by any means , but minute of deer for sure .
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Originally Posted by DMc
I have always been a huge fan of the Bofors steel, made in Finland, Sako Riihimaki, I've owned a .222 and a Hornet. Saw one in 7.62X39 once and still kick myself today for not buying it.

When I lived in Minnesota, back in the 80s, a Sporting Goods Store, Berger Brothers, carried Finnish made AKs and SKS. Manufacturer was Sako..
They also carried Chink and Soviet Block manufactured AKs and the SKS... those weren't put on the rack to sell. They were just stood up in plastic garbage cans, 33 gallon size. They were pretty much labeled $69.00, take your pick.

The Finnish Sako built AKs and SKSs, were $1100 and $1200 bucks each. You held one of each, you realized the Finnish Sako ones were well worth the price they were asking for them...they were also worth every penny if you got to shoot for accuracy.

The Soviet Block AKs and SKSs, they didn't seem worth the $69.00, especially after you handled the Sako built ones.


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I bought a Norinco SKS about 25 years ago,...took the sear out of it, put it in a grinding vise and took about .025" off of it with a surface grinder. Then I drilled and tapped the rear of the trigger guard and screwed an 8-32 button head screw in it that limited over travel of the trigger.

I tweaked on the sear and the length of the screw until it had about 1/32" travel before it broke and virtually no over-travel.

After that, I started getting very good accuracy with it by shooting .312" diameter 150 grain Hornady spire points over a case full of H322 or a healthy charge of WW680. (AA1680 is pretty much a duplicate of the discontinued WW680)

These:

https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/303-cal-312-150-gr-interlock-sp#!/

303 Cal .312 150 gr InterLock® SP

Item #3120 | 100/Box
Our traditional line of bullets feature exposed lead tips for controlled expansion and hard-hitting terminal performance. Most have our pioneering secant ogive design — one of the most ballistically efficient profiles ever developed (see diagram to right). Most feature our exclusive InterLock® design — a raised ring inside the jacket that is embedded in the bullet's core that keeps the core and jacket locked together during expansion to retain mass and energy.

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But I reiterate,...itr's fun to shoot bullets intended for either the .32 auto or the .32 long in the 7.62X39. They're light and the correct diameter,...and the 7.62X39 will really spit them.

There's no load data for them, so you'll have to fly by the seat of your pants. 2400 is good and 296 is a bit slower than 2400 and works well also with the light bullets.

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