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Rig the brake up in a drill press at very low speed and spin it against a piece of ultra-fine sandpaper.


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OP,
Are you capable of figuring how many thousandths has to be removed to properly TIME said brake?

Do you know IF you have Class 3 threads on the muzzle & the brake?


WOW,several hack options suggested by Plumbers w/a couple proper suggestions...to do it correctly.

IF you are confused & need Google or You Tube......seek a Professional...& not a Plumber.


Keep 'em in the X Ring,
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Originally Posted by DANS40XC
OP,
Are you capable of figuring how many thousandths has to be removed to properly TIME said brake?

Do you know IF you have Class 3 threads on the muzzle & the brake?


WOW,several hack options suggested by Plumbers w/a couple proper suggestions...to do it correctly.

IF you are confused & need Google or You Tube......seek a Professional...& not a Plumber.
No I don’t yet have the brake in hand to determine how much needs to come off. I’m just brainstorming at this point and trying to decide if I want the ugly of a self timer, or try to make a machinist’s brake work. I do not have a good gunsmith near me.

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I'd highly suggest you look at a KDF brake. The look good, work great and are high quality. They also have a list of suggested installers by state on the link I'm providing...hopefully there's some in your area. -Al

https://www.kdfguns.com/KDF%20MB%20Layout.html


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I will second the KDF brake, they are very good and I have used them a few times.


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I have a shotgun so I have no need for a 30-06.....
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Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Rig the brake up in a drill press at very low speed and spin it against a piece of ultra-fine sandpaper.


My Redneck Brother!
Reading along before I suggested the same.

If you are gonna redneck something, ya gotta be redneck smart.
Back that paper with something dead flat.


OP. Are you similar with figure 8 sanding.
Not my choice, but if you proceed with your idea, at least YouTube this method.


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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
I'd highly suggest you look at a KDF brake. The look good, work great and are high quality. They also have a list of suggested installers by state on the link I'm providing...hopefully there's some in your area. -Al

https://www.kdfguns.com/KDF%20MB%20Layout.html
Thanks. But I’ve already looked into them. Not a fan of radial brakes.

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Originally Posted by Dillonbuck
Originally Posted by Hotrod_Lincoln
Rig the brake up in a drill press at very low speed and spin it against a piece of ultra-fine sandpaper.


My Redneck Brother!
Reading along before I suggested the same.

If you are gonna redneck something, ya gotta be redneck smart.
Back that paper with something dead flat.


OP. Are you similar with figure 8 sanding.
Not my choice, but if you proceed with your idea, at least YouTube this method.
Yes I’m familiar to the figure 8 method. And I have a drill press.

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Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Thanks. But I’ve already looked into them. Not a fan of radial brakes.

What was it about the radial brakes you've had that you didn't like?


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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by SDHNTR
Thanks. But I’ve already looked into them. Not a fan of radial brakes.

What was it about the radial brakes you've had that you didn't like?

I’m a hunter first and foremost, in the west almost exclusively. Dry and dusty environments are the norm. I often shoot prone. They make a giant mess.

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I have sets of hard plastic shims that makes timing a breeze, they come in .02, .05, .08, .10, .15, .20, timing made easy

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You can figure out how much needs to come off by installing it and measuring how many degrees it needs to rotate. Divide 1 by your thread pitch to get the decimal number of the distance traveled by one full revolution. divide that by 360 degrees. that will give you the amount that needs to be removed from the shoulder for each degree. multiply that by the degrees you need it to rotate.....but come up shy as you'll have a thou or so compression.

A class 3 fit on a mail order brake is going to take everything in your life going perfectly ...tolerance stack will probably put you closer to a solid 2. The brake should bear on the thread flanks and center up.....unless you seriously hamfist the material removal.


Originally Posted by BrentD

I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
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