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I have a 1990's vintage Tasco 8x32x50 FCH scope. Don't laugh, it's always held zero and zooms properly, parallax is spot-on, the knobs track, it's never fogged. But.... and with Tasco you know there's one, the CROSSHAIR is not plumb with the turrets.
I bought a replacement, a Holland second plane scope, which is really nice kit. So the Tasco went down the food chain, not the trash can, but the "not plumb" issue remains.
So, has anyone taken one of these Tascos apart on the back end (eyepiece) and been able to "square" the reticle? I have access to inert gas, both nitrogen and argon, so that won't be an issue. I only spent 150 bucks on this thing, it's given good service, but with a crooked reticle, it's too much of a Kentucky windage deal for me now. I have better glass and have really gotten to like the idea of taking clicks not just for range, but wind.
I just want to know if it's "impossible" to square things up. I'd rather not wreck it for no reason. If "possible," I'd like to try. Thanks,
Dave Skinner


Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.
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You have to consider that some internals maybe glued or otherwise secured in ways “inconvenient” to your purpose. Might be better to leave it to a pro, if that’s worth the cost.

If you do dive in yourself, take lots of pics for us!


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I have several of that vintage Tasco World Class TS scopes. They always track and are very rugged internally....use them a lot for testing.

While I haven't had that exact scope apart, I have dug into a few others. This is a similar vintage Tasco World Class non-TS series scope that I've robbed the ocular piece from. The reticle cell is held in place by this plate that's retained by these three screws. Remove the screws, remove the plate and the lens cell is free. Not sure if yours is exactly like this or not.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Just take the ocular off and take a peek. Don't worry about any gas stuff. Anything that was ever in there is long gone. The reticle cells are extremely fragile....be careful and handle them only as little as needed.

Sometime, the cells are held in with little spanner rings. That's how this Sightron was when it came apart to be locked locked and the w/e assy. removed.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Take the ocular off and post a few pics...we can likely walk through it at that point.

Good shootin' -Al


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Oooo, thanks a ton, Al! Hopefully that's what I'll find, and all I need to do is back off the screws, reset, retighten and done. And, if I HAVE to, I can craftily ovalize the mounting holes. Crafty crafty crafty. I have a Micro Nikkor and some strong lights, so I'll set up the camera before I open sesame.

And yep, I have snapped other crosshairs so I take your warning to heart. Amazing how THICK a human hair can be -- stripped dental floss does work, and quite well, actually. Just don't leave your work in the desert sunshine.

The scope only cost me a hunnat fitty dollah when new, so it's objectively not "worth anything." But it deserves a final chance to be made right...I know machines can't be "loyal" or "faithful" but this scope sure has pretended to be.

Again, thanks. That a Nesika Bay?


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Al, thanks for the tips, and so far, this one is even better....the ocular lens package is screwed into the ocular bell, and the BELL is travel limited by a SPANNER NUT. And no, I don't have the right size. The reticle itself is pretty well blobbed in there, I have a bunch of suspicions about why it's not plumb to the turrets. However, it seems to be a glass etched assembly (and another spanner nut, this one blobbed in messily). So I need to make a spanner wrench to get the first ring off to get the ocular bell out of the way, then I can get in deep enough to work on the good stuff. DARN!
I don't think the reticle pack is installed wrong, I'm thinking it was not assembled square to the jig. The glass goes in a ring with three screws and is held in the ring by another spanner nut. Sure enough, it is "off" in the tighten direction, cocked to the righty tighty.
The bell spanner is actually kind of smart, as some people spin the bell right off when they are trying to get a focused reticle. The glass package was just firmly hand tightened (with nice grease) into the back of the bell, a lot harder to "accidentally" spin off than bells ordinarily are. So I'll give Tasco a point for good thinking about the "average" user.
But I'll have to take the scope off the rifle to really be able to firmly hold everything while I try to turn those spanner nuts. Excitement awaits.


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Tonnage first and
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If you can't fix it yourself check with Cheryl Ackerman - she likely can fix it for you, although it may cost a few dollars.

https://targetshooteroptics.com/Services_and_Prices.html

drover


223 Rem, my favorite cartridge - you can't argue with truckloads of dead PD's and gophers.

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Originally Posted by drover
If you can't fix it yourself check with Cheryl Ackerman - she likely can fix it for you, although it may cost a few dollars.

https://targetshooteroptics.com/Services_and_Prices.html

drover

TAG...

Good to know.

These are GREAT SCOPES for cheap gun show prices, but repairs have a no go.


If you are not actively engaging EVERY enemy you encounter... you are allowing another to fight for you... and that is cowardice... plain and simple.



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Originally Posted by Dave_Skinner
Again, thanks. That a Nesika Bay?

It's an RFD 'LV' made by Bob Dodd....an XP100 length action. He only made 7 of the 'LV' series.

Good shootin' -Al


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Well, the "operation" was a success. I think. I made a shade-tree spanner out of a Sawzall blade, got the bell off, worked over the reticle packet and then the work of lining and plumbing everything began. I took enough pictures, but I was mostly concentrating on doing this sort of thing for the first time.
The cold snap has kept me away from the range and shooting the box. From the "bench," however, I had a mad spin of the knobs while aimed at known plumb and level lines and tracking looked fantastic after the FOURTH try, from top to bottom. I also slipped ONCE, meaning I got cooties on the reticle glass and had to clean it. Which is a project all by itself.
Now I know not just how to straighten out a Trashco, but probably also evaluate any gun show scope before laying down cash. So.....
anyone interested in me posting some how-to pictures?


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Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
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Very cool thread. Are all Tasco world class scopes Japan made or just a particular era?

IC B3

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Gosh, I don't know where this one was made. There's a sticker with country of origin but when I looked, it didn't register in the memory bank. Keep in mind this is pre-bankruptcy Tasco, not the "new" company. I'll TRY to remember to take a look next time I touch that rifle, which might be soon considering the deep freeze has relented for the most part. But everything is now glazed with frozen rain so it's a greasy drive to the range right now.


Up hills slow,
Down hills fast
Tonnage first and
Safety last.

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