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Years ago I believe I used 1916's At roughly 28.5 " with a 145? Muzzy.
What would be an equivalent carbon arrow .

Bow hunted pretty hard 25 years ago and am starting to get the itch again.


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A lot depends on your true draw weight and length. Most trad guys start with full length shafts and bare shaft tune until they get correct arrow flight. Every bow is different. I'd suggest starting with this chart. It should get you in the ballpark.

Trad spine chart


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Thank you bbassi, I have been looking at those charts . I shot it some yesterday with some of my old xx75 2213's. These were for my compound that I hunted with years ago. They flew in a slow corkscrew lol . I did manage to not miss at 20 yards for about 20 shots. I did have to aim to the right about a foot to be in the ctr. of the target. This was just instinct shooting.

This bow was bought by my Dad when he came back from Nam'. I tried to date it but the codes are vague. I think it's a 68- or 69-year model.
KU29768 AMO 52" 48# Brass medallion.


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60s model Bears will have the year of production as the first number of the serial. i.e. 8R1234 would be 68. A serial starting with a K is probably an early 70s model. Good luck with the arrows. If you get it dialed in that old bow will still be deadly.


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Old bows run B50 instead of Fastflite.
Kinda have to fudge the current charts.
Amount of centershot plays into it too.

I ran old Blackwidows of B50 string and they were cut past center.

Wrapping a carbon around a cut to center,.not past center, can be a bit of a PITA, depending on sideplate material/ thickness.

You can get great arrow flight, just may take a little more trial and error.

Or, you could dig up an old Easton aluminum chart and find something with less headache. Those charts IMHO were spot on.

Carbon charts kinda suck, better than they used to be, but still iffy.

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Hopefully you have a bud w similar gear and can try something already built.

If not, a test kit can be had ( couple diff spines).
3R and others sell em.

Form, anchor, and release also factors. Experimented w a higher anchor and had to bump up in spine due to release change.

Worked great, could use arrow tip as aiming point, but was stilted/ not fluid and i went back to my reg the yr after and lesser spine.

Last edited by hookeye; 12/08/22.
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Shoot wood op..mb


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https://www.3riversarchery.com/dynamic-spine-arrow-calculator-from-3rivers-archery.html

This is a good starting location for spines. It will let you play with head weights and footing...etc.


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Adjust your arrow length to reflect longer inserts/ weights and the 3R spine calculator is pretty darn good.

Last edited by hookeye; 12/11/22.
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Thanks for all the suggestions.

Dumb ? Can I use a fast flite string on this bow or is that a no no. Don't want to damage this bow.

I'll probably go with a slightly heavier arrow ( weight wise)just to help suppress noise and not over tax the limbs.


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If you have the loops padded/use 12-16 strand string, you can get by with FF but still not recommended.. I would get some 2016s and start with a full length shaft and cut down 1/2 inch at a time until they shoot straight.. used whatever weight field point you plan to shoot in broadheads..you can still 1916s on ebay sometimes..


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I plan on using the Bear super razorheadd with bleeders. I have quite a few left from way back. Mine are stainless with the blue colored centerline. I believe 145 grains.


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Originally Posted by Featherweight6555
Dumb ? Can I use a fast flite string on this bow or is that a no no. Don't want to damage this bow.

You can get away with it until you can't. It's Russian Roulette and you WILL eventually lose.

Besides, you are not going to gain enough speed with FF to even notice the difference all other things being equal.


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A heavier arrow can help w bow noise.
But on a couple of old Bears it didnt.
Turns out it was limb resonance.

Dampeners on limbs fixed it.

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.500 spine should be a good place to start…

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Thanks everyone. Going to start looking through my archery tackle boxes and do inventory on what I have.
I'll go from there.


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No on the fast flight, you'll blow up the tips.
Tapered wood arrows fly great out of old bows too.

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Another plus for the 3 rivers program. Really let's you fine tune a setup. Last 3 rigs I have setup with it have been very forgiving for arrow flight.


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in the days of old we used 20-20 aluminum arrows in a recurve bow , but the 22-19 aluminum shaft is another excellent arrow for a recurve or long bow .


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I always seem to shoot a lighter spine best. for this range, I shoot 1916 w 123, 600 w/ 175 and usually 43-45 wood w/100


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