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I have a Knight MK-85 50 caliber with the shotgun primer kit ( stainless and camo laminated wood stock) I got back about 1987 It easily shoots one inch groups at 100 yards with 90-100 grains and a sabot using a 45 caliber bullet with everything I've tried. What I strongly dislike about it is trying to get the shotgun primer and the red plastic holder around it to seat firmly and evenly into battery. It's very awkward to get to and takes multiple tries to get it seated straight on and firmly down and snug even with the little plastic tool. I actually liked it better with the original muzzleloader primer, but had several of those fizzle on me I think from oil seeping into them. I know I should shoot it once after cleaning prior to loading with a primer to burn all that out, but it's loud and sometimes not ideal to do before a hunt. I actually missed a big buck once because of this and couldn't reload before he walked off. I just went to order a TC fixed barrel Pro Hunter cause I always liked you could open the action like a SXS shotgun but see they are no longer made.

What should I look for that would either make my gun easier to use/load or what is better to buy new that's still available. I doubt I would ever want to use 150 grains of powder or need to shoot more than 150 yards tops and I imagine 150 grains kicks like a mule. I will only use it for Eastern whitetails and I have not kept up at all with muzzleloaders in 30 years so no idea what's available now.

If you know you will only need 45 caliber bullets well under 300 grains should I look for a 45 caliber instead of a 50 with sabots?

If I get a new gun what's a fair price to sell the Knight for?

Last edited by dimecovers5; 01/28/23.
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Take a look at the Woodman Arms ML’s. They’re a break action, all SS and nitride coated. Plain old 209 primer in them as well.

https://woodmanarms.com/


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Sounds like you need a 54 or 58 caliber flintlock, that way you will appreciate your current muzzleloader and have another muzzleloader.

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That Knight 85 will still serve you well. You absolutely need to pop a cap if you think oil is in your channel, prior to loading. Or, pull the plug, pull the nipple, swab with denatured alcohol, dry, and reassemble.

I don't know the details of how or where you hunt, but it seems like popping a cap (which Ive done for 45 years) is the easiest and best way to go. Pop the cap before you leave home if you dont want to do it in the field.

My 2 mk-85's, a 50 and a 54, work every time if you keep the oil out. Wouldn't you have oil contamination even in a 209 breech plug?

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I have a Mk-85 I've had since ~1990. It is still my backup gun and still uses #11 caps. It has always been reliable and gone off when I needed it to. However, I ALWAYS snapped a cap or two prior to loading it. I switched to other muzzleloaders as I felt I wanted something that easier and quicker to clean. With that said, I bought a CVA Optima 2 Nitride. For the money, I don't think you can find more for less. Accuracy wise, I feel it's better than the Knight. It uses straight 209 primers with no discs or other oddities. They can be had for under $350.

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son and i own to many muskets but they are not for sale but my favorite is the T.C. Encore with the Jim Shockey type stock 50 caliber ,if i was you find a used one of these T.C. Encores simple to use and very accurate too. > check Guns International .com

Last edited by pete53; 01/29/23.

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The part I don't understand is why they sell you a 50 caliber to shoot a 45 caliber. Why not just buy a 45? Do sabots make the 45 fly better? Is it to too hard to ram a 45 caliber down a 45 caliber hole with metal to metal contact?

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My Knight is the old BK-92, I think it’s called. I use the original ignition system with percussion caps. As I’ve never had a single misfire, I’d never change it. If the shotgun primer deal is PITA, I’d change it back. If a fellow has ignition problems, I’d suspect bad components or technique. I’ve killed 3 deer and 2 elk with my Knight but rarely use it now as I like traditional ML’s more.

New rifle for you? Sure, why not? New guns are always fun. I’d never discourage that! 😀

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I would like one. I just need an answer to my earlier question so I know what caliber to buy

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Originally Posted by dimecovers5
The part I don't understand is why they sell you a 50 caliber to shoot a 45 caliber. Why not just buy a 45? Do sabots make the 45 fly better? Is it to too hard to ram a 45 caliber down a 45 caliber hole with metal to metal contact?

Unless you hunt in the Northwest where the bullet must be the same size as the bore (or words to that effect) - the sabot gives you a lot of forgiveness in various “.50” caliber bores.

Some manufacturers are toleranced very tight on their bores - others, not so much. The sabot levels some of the variation, gives you an easy load effort, and good gas seal.

Using good quality lower speed expanding bullets (handgun) gives you a huge selection of options for ranges and game. A fast moving handgun bullet with speed and impact energy at 100 yards isn’t a bad option to have.

There’s nothing wrong with a bore riding heavy lead bullet - plenty of game is killed by them each year. But - it can be a bit of witch hunt if you have to the perfect seal without knowing your exact bore size out to 3 digits.

As far as .45 or .50 with sabots - some states regulate the minimum caliber for game species. Some don’t allow sabots - so there’s a market for bore riders.

I equip a program with muzzleloaders for an Eastern whitetail hunt each year - we run .50 because 99% of the time - I can count on the needed supplies being in stock. We’d be fine with .45 caliber rifles, but the .50 caliber with a sabot lends itself well to .45 caliber bullets in a sabot for all around use.

Last edited by AH64guy; 02/04/23.
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