|
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9,088
Campfire Outfitter
|
OP
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9,088 |
No experience with it, several products offered on the market, but I was wondering if the end finish is durable, a couple of the advertised products call for a clearcoat as a last step. That sounds like the blackening is not durable at all. Only reason I'm fooling with stainless take-off barrels is I have them laying around.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9
New Member
|
New Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 9 |
I've only "blackened" stainless with two finishes. The first finish I can't do at home and had to send it out, that was melonite.
The second finish I do at home and it's very durable. I use molybdenum. I get it from John Norrels, his company calls it moly resin. You need an oven long enough to fit your barrel and a gunsmithing thermometer, since the one on your oven isn't accurate enough. And don't do it when your wife is home, otherwise she'll complain about the smell.
The surface has to me slightly roughened with some sand blasting. If perfectly smooth with bead blasting or polishing, the molybdenum finish won't be durable. I found it works best with stainless but also good with regular steel and it is least durable on aluminum. My guess is that it works better with metal that has longer heat retention, but I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, so that's just a guess
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 2,355
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 2,355 |
No experience... But my brother bought a new (circa 1969) Rem 700 BDL 7MM Rem Mag with a factory Blued/Blackened? stainless steel barrel... That rifle has been as far north as northern Alaska and as far south as the Louisiana coast in the last 54 yrs and the barrel still looks nearly as good as when it was new...
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,055
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,055 |
No experience with it, several products offered on the market, but I was wondering if the end finish is durable, a couple of the advertised products call for a clearcoat as a last step. That sounds like the blackening is not durable at all. ....... Lots of detailed information readily available that mostly says true blackening of the stainless steel metal is an EPA regulated hazmat producing industrial process including such fun things as molten salt baths for actual blackening. All over including bore or exterior only is another major concern. As for a top coat and durable durable under what circumstances of abrasion or chemical (including atmospheric water) exposure? BirchWood Casey suggests: Black oxide finishes do require a sealant of some type because the black finish itself has a porous crystal structure. Although the sealant is primarily responsible for the corrosion resistance, the underlying black coating acts as an absorbent base, holding the sealant in contact with the metal substrate. Durable enough; remember that for many years many people complained about holster wear with gun coatings and complaints have lessened with more careful higher heat applications. I suggest for a first approximation deciding on the objective. Coloring stainless steel or coating stainless steel? Folks have been known to plate with mild steel then color the mild steel or paint with anything from undercoating/bed liner for protection to a full range of Cerekote and competition brand colors. Not much point in cutting and pasting industry instructions and anything less is liable to be incomplete and misleading. As always YouTube is full of folks showing how they did it - mostly smaller pieces that are easier to handle for uniform results than a barrel - while Birchwood Casey and others offer full and complete instructions on the process in general and the use of their respective products.
Last edited by ClarkEMyers; 02/06/23.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,420
Campfire Tracker
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,420 |
Early .17 Remington barrels on the BDL 700's were stainless. They were copper plated, then blued.
Probably doesn't add anything to the OP's question...just a little factoid.
Good shootin' -Al
Forbidden Zoner
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,075
Campfire Ranger
|
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23,075 |
Early .17 Remington barrels on the BDL 700's were stainless. They were copper plated, then blued.
Probably doesn't add anything to the OP's question...just a little factoid.
Good shootin' -Al Interesting. I've had a bunch of trim pieces re-chromed on British cars over the years and always sought out platers who did it correctly by what we called "triple plating". That entailed plating a layer of copper first, then a layer of nickel, and finally the chrome. Made for a very durable job, with kind of a "depth" to the finish that's hard to describe. It was all about providing the best substrate for the subsequent layer.
"You can lead a man to logic, but you cannot make him think." Joe Harz "Always certain, often right." Keith McCafferty
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9,088
Campfire Outfitter
|
OP
Campfire Outfitter
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 9,088 |
I got no problem with the appearance and utility of browning as found on muzzleloaders...which is heavily copper based...maybe I will play with some stainless scraps, see if it will take. I just can't abide stainless, subconsciously suggests pimps and cardsharks I guess.
Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,153
Campfire Ranger
|
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 19,153 |
I've only "blackened" stainless with two finishes. The first finish I can't do at home and had to send it out, that was melonite.
The second finish I do at home and it's very durable. I use molybdenum. I get it from John Norrels, his company calls it moly resin. You need an oven long enough to fit your barrel and a gunsmithing thermometer, since the one on your oven isn't accurate enough. And don't do it when your wife is home, otherwise she'll complain about the smell.
The surface has to me slightly roughened with some sand blasting. If perfectly smooth with bead blasting or polishing, the molybdenum finish won't be durable. I found it works best with stainless but also good with regular steel and it is least durable on aluminum. My guess is that it works better with metal that has longer heat retention, but I'm not a chemist or metallurgist, so that's just a guess Brownell's has this product. The secret is preparation. I have tried it and it works real well on the phosphate finish on like an AR upper or lower. Just make sure all oil and finger prints are gone. Steel needs glass bead blasted to get the right finish. kwg https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...quid-ptfe-moly-gun-finish-prod24784.aspx
For liberals and anarchists, power and control is opium, selling envy is the fastest and easiest way to get it. TRR. American conservative. Never trust a white liberal. Malcom X Current NRA member.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1,837
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1,837 |
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 4,951
Campfire Tracker
|
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 4,951 |
I you want durable, have them black nitrided. Not a DIY project though.
Charter Member Ancient order of the 1895 Winchester
"It's an insecure and petite man who demands all others like what he likes and dislike what he dislikes." szihn
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1,837
Campfire Regular
|
Campfire Regular
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 1,837 |
|
|
|
|
326 members (1lesfox, 06hunter59, 10ring1, 16penny, 160user, 12344mag, 27 invisible),
1,678
guests, and
944
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums81
Topics1,191,178
Posts18,465,524
Members73,925
|
Most Online11,491 Jul 7th, 2023
|
|
|
|