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Looking for a pickup for the son as he gets ready to head to school this fall.

He'd like a tacoma so I have been hunting around. Found some 2006 - 07 - 08 age tacomas. What do I need to know and be aware of? What to watch out for? What is desirable and what isn't. It will have to have 4 wheel drive.

His mom would like it to be an extended cab. He would like a 4-door. He would also like a manual.

What are these outfits like for a taller person? My son is nearly 6'2".

Anyone have suggestions on any for sale out there?


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pretty reliable for many miles, IF they have been taken care of. My '07 has about 253,000 miles and still runs and drives very good. So mileage isn't a deal killer, IF they've been taken care of.
Seems biggest issue is the possibility of a rusty frame. If it lived in MT all it's life probably won't be an issue, but if it lived any where on the east coast or midwest, better look closely at the frame.
They hold thier value amazingly, so be preparred to pay more than you feel is right for an older vehicle.


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Originally Posted by TRnCO
pretty reliable for many miles, IF they have been taken care of. My '07 has about 253,000 miles and still runs and drives very good. So mileage isn't a deal killer, IF they've been taken care of.
Seems biggest issue is the possibility of a rusty frame. If it lived in MT all it's life probably won't be an issue, but if it lived any where on the east coast or midwest, better look closely at the frame.
They hold thier value amazingly, so be preparred to pay more than you feel is right for an older vehicle.

Thanks

Am actually looking down in the OK area.


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TR is correct that the main big issue is frame rust. I've found the door handles to be a little fragile. Otherwise, they deserve their reputation for reliability.

Just totaled a '97 2W drive manual w 220K miles. I'd had it for 20 years without issue. Insurance paid $9K for it. Bought a '99 same thing w 110K miles for 10K.

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We have a 2004 with about 165K on it.Last one, we sold with 275K on it

Belt, water pump should be change out at 100K intervals. I don't have the list anymore, but some of the engines are interference types and if the belt goes, a whole lot of bad things happen.

Around here if you find one they might like, you had best buy it as it won't be around long. Be ready to compromise on what they want or you might be looking for a long time


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Last edited by K1500; 02/10/23.
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In my 2007, if the seat is all the way back, (I'm 6ft), I can't begin to push the clutch in far enough to close the safety switch to crank it. Quite a bit of leg room.
That said, I'm going to sell or trade mine for a full size, knowing full well I'll be giving up reliability.


Well this is a fine pickle we're in, should'a listened to Joe McCarthy and George Orwell I guess.
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Rusty Frame---recall but I think it expired a few years back
driveshaft
front cover seal
Leaky valve gaskets
there was a recall on the rear leaf springs which toyota covered
6 speed transmission might have a issue as well, make sure it doesn't grind when shifting
Chain Drive engine so no worries there . Toyota are not zero interference engines.
Steering rack and pinion assembly will sometimes leak, sometimes a seep and other times enough to get it changed out.

Make sure it had the oil changed at 5k not 10k like all the cheapskates here like doing. It's your engine after all.


I had a 2006 extended cab 6 speed 4WD

6'2 would really really be stretching it.

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Toyotas with interference engines

1.5L (1A-C, 3A-C & 3E) Interference
• 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
• 1.8L Diesel Interference
• 1.8L DOHC Gasoline Interference
1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF – Non Interference
• 2.0L Non-Interference
• 2.2L Diesel Interference
• 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
• 2.4L Diesel Interference
• 2.5L Non-Interference
• 2.8L Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 VVT-i (1998 2JZ-GE) Interference
• 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
• 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6 W/ V VTi – Interference
• 3.4L Non-Interference
* 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
• 4.7L Interference

Last edited by saddlesore; 02/10/23.

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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Toyotas with interference engines

1.5L (1A-C, 3A-C & 3E) Interference
• 1.5L (3E-E & 5E-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-F & 4A-FE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L DOHC (4A-GE & 4A-GZE) Non-Interference
• 1.6L SOHC Non-Interference
• 1.8L Diesel Interference
• 1.8L DOHC Gasoline Interference
1.8L 7AFE, 4AFE, 4AF – Non Interference
• 2.0L Non-Interference
• 2.2L Diesel Interference
• 2.2L Gasoline Non-Interference
• 2.4L Diesel Interference
• 2.5L Non-Interference
• 2.8L Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 (Except 1998 2JZ-GE) Non-Interference
• 3.0L Inline 6 VVT-i (1998 2JZ-GE) Interference
• 3.0L V6 Non-Interference
• 3.3L 3MZ-FE V6 W/ V VTi – Interference
• 3.4L Non-Interference
* 3.5L V-6 Non-Interference
• 4.7L Interference


None of those engines were in a tacoma for the time period the OP suggested? They did away with timing belts a while ago.

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Regular cabs are hard to find, they stopped making them about 10 years ago. The Access cab doesn't have enough room to seat an adult in the back, or even a full grown teenager, but does provide some storage. If nothing else it gives more room to adjust or recline seats. The Access cabs come with 6' beds, most 4 door Crew Cabs only have a 5' bed if that is important to you.

I bought my 07 new and have never been handicapped with the 5' bed. You can't haul much even in a 6' bed so for anything big I have a 6X10 utility trailer. They are less common, but they do make a few 6' beds with crew cabs. But you end up with a truck that is almost exactly the same overall length as a 1/2 ton crew cab. Which sorta ruins the concept of driving a small truck.

My truck has been great. 233,000 miles and I've done next to nothing. Had to replace an alternator a U-Joint at around 170,000. Toyota reimbursed me for the U-Joint, apologized and told me they would replace any of the others at no cost up to 200,000 miles. Other than normal maintenance I've done nothing else to the truck. There are a few dings and scratches in the body. I've got a little peeling white paint and the drivers seat is well worn. But it still drives like new.

For a small truck fuel mileage may disappoint. My Tacoma is only 1 mpg better than my 2014 F150. I get 17ish for everyday driving. On the road 19-20 mpg is the norm. I've hit 22 on a couple of tanks in ideal conditions.

On paper most of them will tow 6500 lbs. But most of them have payloads in the 1000 to 1200 lb range. Which will realistically limit any towing to closer to 4500 lbs. And even then you can't put much in the truck AND tow.


Most people don't really want the truth.

They just want constant reassurance that what they believe is the truth.
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Timing belts in 1st Gen 3.4L V6

Timing chains in 2nd Gen 2005+

Browse around here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/2nd-gen-tacomas-2005-2015.5/


T R U M P W O N !

U L T R A M A G A !

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Originally Posted by flintlocke
In my 2007, if the seat is all the way back, (I'm 6ft), I can't begin to push the clutch in far enough to close the safety switch to crank it. Quite a bit of leg room.
That said, I'm going to sell or trade mine for a full size, knowing full well I'll be giving up reliability.

That all depends on what full size you are talking about. The full size I have is every bit as reliable as your 2007. Maybe even more so.


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I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
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Honestly, with any vehicle you are looking at buying, I would look at a few things:

- the underneath of the cab to see if there is any rust or anything that looks like it Might be out of place
- check the tires and make sure the vehicle has good rubber on it
-miles is a big issue
-number of previous owners
- I would also run the VIN number and see if you can pull up any previous history or reports on it,
-check the blue book value and see what it is listed at compared to what you are willing to spend (shop around a little can compare)
-is the vehicle in good condition? How many repairs? Does the previous owner have all the receipts and records of what has been fixed on it?


The list goes on and on.....

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Ended up with a 2013 tacoma, 4-door.


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What is "interference" or "non-interference"?


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Originally Posted by jmp300wsm
What is "interference" or "non-interference"?

The determining factor of what happens when the timing belt breaks or gets radically out of time.

Interference engine would allow the valves to be down into the combustion chamber while the piston comes up and tries to occupy the same space. So in addition to the belt you need head and piston work in addition.

Non-interference - timing belt breaks and when the valve train is spinning down - independently of the bottom end - the pistons can't hit the valves. Your costs are basically just the replacement belt/work.


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Even with the non interference engines, it s good idea to replace the water pump along with the belt. I didn't with the first one.The bearing went in water pump, causing the fan to wobble. It took out the radiator.There is a kit that comes with water pump, belt, hoses for the earlier engines that did not have timing chains


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Originally Posted by saddlesore
Even with the non interference engines, it s good idea to replace the water pump along with the belt. I didn't with the first one.The bearing went in water pump, causing the fan to wobble. It took out the radiator.There is a kit that comes with water pump, belt, hoses for the earlier engines that did not have timing chains

+1. water pump should be changed with any timing belt change on any Toyota engine.

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My general rule is, if it has to be taken off, or is right there while you have it torn apart, change it.


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