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![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/WbmjxThS/IMG-20230317-181126-HDR.jpg) This happened today. I will add a few more pics and info...on my phone so 1 at a time it will be!
......the occasional hunter wielding a hopelessly inaccurate rifle, living by the fantastical rule that this cartridge can deliver the goods, regardless of shot placement or rifle accuracy. The correct term for this is minute of ego.
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![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/K8KfRvBD/IMG-20230317-181255-HDR.jpg) Saved the chip. Measured with a calipers it is .2 deep
......the occasional hunter wielding a hopelessly inaccurate rifle, living by the fantastical rule that this cartridge can deliver the goods, regardless of shot placement or rifle accuracy. The correct term for this is minute of ego.
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![[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]](https://i.postimg.cc/PqS59hV0/IMG-20230317-181631.jpg) So I had the rifle bedded, just picked it up today. There was a crack there before, I was hoping the bedding would help relieve the recoil. So a few questions, is this repairable? I am an amateur woodworker so I am not afraid to glue the chip back in. I am just afraid if it happened once it may happen again? This stock is on a BRNO Mauser, and obviously came from a different rifle. Chambering is 338-06, so has some recoil. Or would you just scrap the stock? I got the gun for 325, so I am not opposed to putting it in a Boyds.
......the occasional hunter wielding a hopelessly inaccurate rifle, living by the fantastical rule that this cartridge can deliver the goods, regardless of shot placement or rifle accuracy. The correct term for this is minute of ego.
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Totally repairable. Use Acraglass -- the thin stuff rather than the gel.
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Easy fix. I would use Elmers Titebond, clamp it sufficiently to not squeeze out all the glue, let it dry. Sand any small imperfections lightly . Take the action out of the rifle and relieve the wood a bit at the point so the action isn't driven back into it in recoil
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Easy fix. I would use Elmers Titebond, clamp it sufficiently to not squeeze out all the glue, let it dry. Sand any small imperfections lightly . Take the action out of the rifle and relieve the wood a bit at the point so the action isn't driven back into it in recoil Exactly!!!!!
If God wanted you to walk and carry things on your back, He would not have invented stirrups and pack saddles
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I agree on the easy fix and relieving behind the tang... but it is really important IMO to bed it properly. That is a bedding issue.
And I would not use anything but epoxy. There is more than enough oil in the wood to cause problems and therefore I would use the best glue. I have zero problem using Elmer's Titebond on fresh clean wood.
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Easy fix. I would use Elmers Titebond, clamp it sufficiently to not squeeze out all the glue, let it dry. Sand any small imperfections lightly . Take the action out of the rifle and relieve the wood a bit at the point so the action isn't driven back into it in recoil Except use epoxy, not white glue.
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
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Semper Fi
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#1. Fire the Ten Thumbed POS who calls himself a ...................
I just can't even say gun smith thinking about your bedding job!
How can anyone have bedded that gun and not addressed the problem.
Especially not relieved the tang on a Mauser?
Do not take it to him.
PS. Not a Smith myself. Just a DIY hack.
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Oz made me hold my nose!
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Use a good 2-part, clear, medium to slow cure epoxy - not Marine Tex or steel bed or any other bedding material. The epoxy is much more viscous and will flow and fill every crevice, penetrate into the pores of the wood.
Make sure the stock and chip bare wood areas are cleaned well with lacquer thinner. Let dry and repeat. Let dry and then drill some small holes in the stock first - and if possible a couple in the chip - liberally apply epoxy to both, using toothpick ensure the holes are filled - press fit together wiping the excess off with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner to clean off excess epoxy. Tightly wrap several times around with masking tape and do not touch it until completely CURED.
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Use a good 2-part, clear, medium to slow cure epoxy - not Marine Tex or steel bed or any other bedding material. The epoxy is much more viscous and will flow and fill every crevice, penetrate into the pores of the wood.
Make sure the stock and chip bare wood areas are cleaned well with lacquer thinner. Let dry and repeat. Let dry and then drill some small holes in the stock first - and if possible a couple in the chip - liberally apply epoxy to both, using toothpick ensure the holes are filled - press fit together wiping the excess off with a rag dampened with lacquer thinner to clean off excess epoxy. Tightly wrap several times around with masking tape and do not touch it until completely CURED. The above is the best fix. The tang shouldn't have any contact with the stock or the same thing will happen again. The back of the recoil lug is what should be taking the load...nothing else. Good shootin' -Al
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Totally repairable. Use Acraglass -- the thin stuff rather than the gel. Failing that, use a good 2-ton epoxy - clamped tight for 24-36 hours.. I would also 'pin' it as well, after the epoxy is fully set.. The two pin sizes I used was 3/32 or 1/8"... I'd use the latter for your stock... YMMV...
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Common deal.
Easy fix and then back to shootin.
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Thanks guys! Got some 2 ton epoxy and will repair with that
......the occasional hunter wielding a hopelessly inaccurate rifle, living by the fantastical rule that this cartridge can deliver the goods, regardless of shot placement or rifle accuracy. The correct term for this is minute of ego.
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If the epoxy you choose seems a bit thick, warming it with a hair dryer can help. -Al
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You're probably right about that, but I use Elmer's woodworking glue and Titebond pretty much interchangeably in my woodworking projects. Both are excellent... I use them on a lot of stock repairs also, but in this case if the wood isn't fresh and clean the epoxy is the better material as has been stated... Bob
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Medics bury their mistakes..
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Because you want a permanent repair.
"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon
"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg
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