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So this ruger I bought they said safety not working, now have taken butstock off, am wondering if the fact the trigger pull is anywhere from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 pounds was made to light and is keeping safety from working?

I looks like it is hitting the long arm


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A photo might help.

What era No. 1?


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Thanks for the reply, going out to take a pic as I took the buttstock off, but got interrupted doing our income tax for out wonderful government.

The serial number puts it at I believe 1977, will try and go get that pic.

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]

Last edited by Partsman; 03/22/23.

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There are two components to the Ruger No.1 safety: The forward lower projection on the sliding safety selector itself blocks the rear projection of the sear. The sliding safety selector also operates a pivoting lever which moves a blocking arm into and out of position to prevent hammer movement only when it’s cocked. That blocking arm appears in this diagram as the white horizontal thingie just above the trigger:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

With the stock off you should be able to see the whole operation, and detect where the problem lies.

Here’s another diagram showing the system cocked-and-locked:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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So you can see from the left and right I did a pic of holding saftey and the sear seems to keep it from moving, and one pic each of letting it relax, plus one showing only two adj screws

Does the spring look like it is in the right configuration?


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An additional comment: The reason I asked for the era/manufacture date is the early No. 1 triggers were indeed adjustable. While the later one still had the same "adjustment" screws, but often they made no difference in the pull, no matter how much the screws were turned.

Neither type should interfere with the safety's operation, but you never know....


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Originally Posted by Mule Deer
An additional comment: The reason I asked for the era/manufacture date is the early No. 1 triggers were indeed adjustable. While the later one still had the same "adjustment" screws, but often they made no difference in the pull, no matter how much the screws were turned.

Neither type should interfere with the safety's operation, but you never know....

Did you notice in exchipy schematic shows the sear under saftey, yet mine shows it will not clear to be able to get in that position?


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Originally Posted by Partsman
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Ah, you’ve got one of the early designs with a sear engagement adjustment screw. It’s the screw which passes downward through the trigger at its rear and bears against the frame behind the trigger. You might wanna back that screw out a bit to see what happens.


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Yep!


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The Jard trigger for the No.1 also has a sear engagement adjustment screw, but it works in the opposite direction:

[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


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Will also note that the later No. 1 triggers became so "unadjustable" that some gun writer once published an article in Rifle magazine on how to "tune" the triggers--not adjust them. This involved stuff like disassembling the various parts and honing them. (Some details got garbled a little by the copy editor, who didn't understand certain rifle terms, but the essentials were still there.) Don't remember the issue, but doubt they would publish a similar article these days. Do know it was before digital photography became normal in the business, which was around 20 years ago. Might be able to run the date down if you're interested.


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Maybe the No.1 article you did in Oct of ‘05as I recall?

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I hope to not be high jacking here, but adding pertinent(?) questions...

I'm curious and unknowledgeable regarding Ruger #1's. I recently acquired a red pad Ruger #1. I traded for it here on the fire. Is the red pad an indication of it being an early model?

I'm quite satisfied with this trigger. Mine has about a 2.2 to 2.4 lb (crisp) trigger pull as close as I can measure, and the safety works as it should. About when did the trigger not become adjustable?

https://ruger.com/dataProcess/serialHistory/ has the following info for this rifle.

Model # 01338
Product Line NO 1
Caliber 6MM REM
In Production No
Shipped In 1982

I'm leery of early Ruger's and their barrels. The snow drifts are as high as 10 feet here and getting out to the range is not feasible. I'll see how accurate this rifle is when the range is accessible.

I'd like to find your article on Ruger #1's MD. Was it in one of your Gun Gack books?

Thanks


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Well thanks to you all for the info, will be a great help and yes, I think that screw is the problem.
If I gently pry the sear down with a screwdriver the slight movement allowed the safety to slip by and engage the safety and keeps it from firing when trigger pulled, thought I would have to file something, but nope, think the screw is the issue and I will try screw it up a bit to take some pressure off.
Will probably have to wait till tomorrow but will try it.

Big thank you to all again, great resource here.

Just purchased another rifle at auction: non-Restricted - Ruger M77 in 270 Win - This bolt action rifle with floor plate magazine appears to be in good to very good working order. Barrel is 22", rifling is good to very good, bluing is good as it is starting to turn grey, has no sights but has integral bases, stock is good to very good, rubber butt pad good. Ser # 74-00533 about 1979 in 270
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]


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So did not think that screw turned, but it must have as safety now works great, trigger pull is running about 2 3/4 lbs now, so I guess adjusting the sear screw did change the trigger pull a bit.

But it is still a good weight I think, hope to get out to try this rifle, oh and so far my ammo I made for my old 25/06 Remington model 700 works in it, so that was nice to see.

Thanks again for the help.


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Originally Posted by Exchipy
Originally Posted by Partsman
[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]
Ah, you’ve got one of the early designs with a sear engagement adjustment screw. It’s the screw which passes downward through the trigger at its rear and bears against the frame behind the trigger. You might wanna back that screw out a bit to see what happens.


Yep, that was the answer and now at under 3 lbs of pull it is good to go.


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By backing out that screw, what you did was increase the sear contact into the hammer notch, increasing the work the trigger must do, and thereby increasing the pull weight just a bit. That also lowered the back end of the sear so the safety selector could pass over it. You know, the knee bone’s connected to the thigh bone, etc.


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Funny thing was after finally finding the right size Allen wrench I barely moved the screw, in fact thought it never moved, but it had to of as the safety functions fine.
Now before I put it all back together I sprayed a gun lube that dries on the innards and plan on sealing the wood on the buttstock including where the recoil pad sits.


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So have been sealing all wood on butt stock, then did the fore end, and found a brass shim someone put in there, will have to see how it shoots as it is, does not appear to have been shot very much.


"The 375HH is the greatest level of power you can get for the investment in recoil." (JJHack)
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