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Graziano is another great lathe.
Owned by Deckel-Maho now.
Very smooth.
$$$$ to fix. But seldom needed

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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
I’ll look at mine. I can’t remember. I think it starts with a “J”, lol. It was $300+ about ten years ago if memory serves.

I’ll grab a pic of it and the spider chuck I made for my Webb as well as the spider chuck the PO of my old Logan made for it… he was a gunsmith.

Man this is getting me hot to do another build! DAMN you people! smile I have this wild hair idea… I bought a 7 SAUM M700 as a donor to build a 6.5 SAUM Mountain Rifle… this won’t be the year for a build, as I’m about to take off on a big adventure so I will be in a financial hole when I get back…. BUT… it occurred to me I could rechamber the 7 SAUM to 7 WSM (I have the reamer and gauges for that) and, if it shot ok, just lean on my pile of 7 WSM components (I have two) and shoot the living snot out of the thing! It would be kinda fun to have a rifle to just abuse with no guilt qualms. My two 7 WSM’s are well over 1k rounds each and have very visible throat erosion, but still shoot well, so they are no longer high-volume rifles, at least until I cut off a thread and rechamber….. I’m saving them for when it counts, like hunting.

Just watch, if I rechamber that factory 7 SAUM tube, it’ll shoot so good I won’t want to abuse it, haha… that’d be my luck. It’s a magnum profile barrel. Might shoot GREAT.

Speaking of getting things set up perfectly… if I do this, that 7 SAUM chamber is going to be the mutha of all pilots for the 7 WSM reamer; it’s going to follow it. If Remington cut the chamber with poor concentricity to the rifled bore, I don’t think I’ll be able to fix that. The new chamber will too. If anyone thinks otherwise I’d love to hear ideas. I could maybe prebore it just a little with my tiny solid carbide boring bar but there’s not a lot of difference between the diameter of the 7 SAUM and 7 WSM; the 7 WSM is bigger, but not massively so.

Check the existing chamber for concentricity. If it ok, just send it. You might get away with a thou or two on the boring bar clean up but its not a sure thing

I do what Butch outlined but i bore to the same angle as the case and i leave the pilot on. Never occurred to me to not use the pilot


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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
In my case (if that’s what we are talking about) it’s not a barrel blank; it’s a factory tube I’d be rechambering. So the problem, if there is one, is that the reamer will follow the pre-reamed hole a.k.a. the old chamber.

This is where I was going with my comment. I was wondering if you could straighten out a non-concentric existing chamber with the boring bar, given you have enough meat on both sides to cut and not leave an oblong hole. After starting the chamber cut with a center drill and bit first, of course. Leave it a bit short of finished spec and use the finish reamer to complete the concentric final cut chamber. Seems like it would be a way to cut down on reamer deflection and reamer wear and still cut a really clean chamber.
It looks like my question was answered though. I'm hobbyist so I'm always trying to learn what I need to know to start doing barrels , chambering, threading , etc... by my own hand. Anyone can do the barrel tapering and cutting/crowning job but I don't trust myself to cut a shank properly yet and I still have to practice a bit at cutting threads. Seems like I can never get those nice, clean threads I see on some of these pictures of barrel threads and I'm not sure why. Even with brand new cutters and every thing set up properly I always get these very rough threads that would probably work, but bug the heck out of me....

Last edited by Sheister; 03/30/23.

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Without knowing the geometry of your cutter/insert, can only speak generally, but I’d say slow down the spindle speed, and lower your tool height a bit… if you are right at centerline or god forbid a bit high, weird stuff can happen, whereas, being a little low ain’t no thang. Since it’s a form cut, set up for maximum rigidity, (minimum possible extension of work, toolholder, etc)…. Use lots of good sulphured cutting oil. Run a fan, that stuff is irritating when it smokes.

You wouldn’t do this for barrel threads, or if a guy did it’d be with a very light hand, but in a more production-type context you can run a fine triangle file down the threads (with the work spinning) multiple times to clean them up. And of course a fine sharp flat file rested gently on the thread crowns while still under power is SOP.

I cut a lot of threads on my lathes. I’ll be cutting (30) metric threads on the Feeler tomorrow. If you play around with your parameters a bit you’ll figure it out. Just try something (like lowering the toolheight) and take note of whether things get better… or worse. Iterate until happy.

And one other thing, random mild steel can be gummy and soft and a pain to get clean threads on. Grab a piece of T303 stainless some time and practice on that. Cuts cleanly, predictable, consistent… easy to machine, it’s good stuff. That’s what I’m threading tomorrow. Don’t accidentally get T304. smile


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A properly ground steel bit will cut cleaner than carbide. Feeding in at 29.5 degrees, with the compound, will give a better finish. Threading at a higher speed will give a better finish. GD

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Learn to thread feeding out!
You can run faster with no crashes!
Attachment shows cutter position.

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Last edited by BS2; 03/31/23.

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A lot of really good 'smith's thread away from the chuck...tool upside down and in reverse.

A tuned up clutch on the lead screw can sometimes be better than being quick on the half nut. But there's no upside to threading too close to the shoulder. Large relief grooves are worth doing for a lot of reasons. Especially if you take the time to understand how load is distributed with 60 degree threads.


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Here my rig before I really did the serious upgrades (heavier motor, VFD, RPM monitor, …. )

At delivery
[Linked Image]

You can get a shorter barrel in it if you take off the gear cover and make a spider out of the spindle vs. adding a longer spindle to operate with the cover.
[Linked Image]

3 phase is smoother for threading than single - but that means putting in a VFD… I put my setup in a industrial box hinged on the end of the lathe so I can swing it away to move the monster…
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Last edited by Spotshooter; 03/31/23.
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Stick - Gordy improved the way he indicates / cuts chambers .. that video is kind of an old one..
He doesn’t use range rods to indicate unless the cartridge body is REALLY small (below 223 dimensions).

My rifle shoots .1-.2 MOA so apparently his approach works.. I’m building 3 other ones right now… maybe 4… stuff is getting pricey fast these days.


Originally Posted by Big Stick
fhuqksock,

Your STUPIDITY never fhuqking ceases to amaze. Hint.



Fhuqking LAUGHING!..............

Last edited by Spotshooter; 03/31/23.
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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
A lot of really good 'smith's thread away from the chuck...tool.upside down and in reverse.

A tuned up clutch on the lead screw can sometimes be better than being quick on the half nut. But there's no upside to threading too close to the shoulder. Large relief grooves are worth doing for a lot of reasons. Especially if you take the time to understand how load is distributed with 60 degree threads.

It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck. smile

I cut 1.5 pitch threads with the Feeler today in 303; the HLVH threading method is just awesome. You can thread RIGHT up to a shoulder, no stress, the machine stops on a dime, automatically, right where you tell it to. You could start the cutting pass and walk away from the lathe; it stops itself. I was going to take pictures of the controls and try to splain it better but… I didn’t. Check it out if you get chance to play with one.

I remembered to check the Feeler’s lowest speed. 139 RPM.

Last edited by Jeff_O; 03/31/23.

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My 16", 1937 Southbend is a 'coaster'. One reason the chuck has never unscrewed in reverse.

My homemade holder gets up close to the shoulder, you can under cut the shoulder if you like.

I only do light cuts when threading.

My brother has a 16" 1956 quick change.[Southbend] He bought several gears and can cut nearly all metric threads.

16" are cheaper than 10s. Mine will do 56" between centers. Works very well for me.

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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck. smile

Anyone taking big cuts for threading is screwed, blued and tattooed before they start the machine up.


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Originally Posted by Jeff_O
...HLVH threading method is just awesome. You can thread RIGHT up to a shoulder, no stress, the machine stops on a dime, automatically, right where you tell it to...

The HLVH is truly amazing for its wonderful design which provides this capability.


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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by Jeff_O
[quote=Al_Nyhus]It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck. smile

Anyone taking big cuts for threading is screwed, blued and tattooed before they start the machine up.

I once screwed up, somehow, (actually, I screwed up way more than once, but this is one of them) and cut 8 tpi threads, on a 3 inch diameter tenon, in one pass! I was threading at 240 RPM. I had cut the start to minor diameter, then just engaged the half nut. I don't know what I was thinking of. Anyway, the machine growled a bit but the thread came out good. I was a little surprised the tool bit didn't break. GD

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Originally Posted by greydog
Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by Jeff_O
[quote=Al_Nyhus]It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck. smile

Anyone taking big cuts for threading is screwed, blued and tattooed before they start the machine up.

I once screwed up, somehow, (actually, I screwed up way more than once, but this is one of them) and cut 8 tpi threads, on a 3 inch diameter tenon, in one pass! I was threading at 240 RPM. I had cut the start to minor diameter, then just engaged the half nut. I don't know what I was thinking of. Anyway, the machine growled a bit but the thread came out good. I was a little surprised the tool bit didn't break. GD

8 TPI. !
deep a$$ threads. Quite a feat


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Originally Posted by pal
Originally Posted by Jeff_O
...HLVH threading method is just awesome. You can thread RIGHT up to a shoulder, no stress, the machine stops on a dime, automatically, right where you tell it to...

The HLVH is truly amazing for its wonderful design which provides this capability.


The pin clutch stops to about +-.001. And you can thread at 800 rpm.
Use carbide and get a great finish.

I do not understand the “HSS better finish” if so aerospace would be using it.

Last edited by 257_X_50; 04/01/23.
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Originally Posted by Al_Nyhus
Originally Posted by Jeff_O
It’s a great trick and I’ve done it a lot. It does load the carriage and compound differently than what they were designed for and you don’t want to take big cuts with this setup. They’ll buck. smile

Anyone taking big cuts for threading is screwed, blued and tattooed before they start the machine up.

800 rpm’s, eh? I’ll have to try kicking the speed up. I was threading today at 155 RPM, which is the actual, not nominal, lowest speed I can turn on the Feeler.

Big cuts….. I used to have a job that involved threading large stainless shafts in quantity… in a production scenario you most certainly do take big cuts when threading. Big being relative of course. Bigger than you otherwise would, how about. That’s how I know you can make the carriage buck when it’s loaded up wrong when threading away from the shoulder. smile Find the limits, then back down a bit and then make some $$$.

The parts I’m making now start out as 2-1/4” solid round T303 bar and end up almost like thin-wall pipe. Long story. A LOT of material gets first drilled out to 3/4” then bored the rest of the way. I use a solid carbide boring bar- which if a guy hasn’t used those, do, they are a game changer- and was taking ~ .350” off ID diameter at a pass. The machine hardly knew it. The biggest issue is minimizing the number of burns from the hot chips.

Maritool is a good place for solids carbide bars. He does a good job weeding out the wheat from the chaff. Won’t sell you junk, Chinese or not.


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HSS provides a better finish at low speeds, on a light machine. Carbide, and coated carbide, work better at higher speeds and are mandatory for some of the tougher alloys. The truth is, nobody grinds HSS bits much anymore. but if they do, they can produce a tool which is sharper and cuts with a lower chip load than many of the carbide inserts. HSS is not cost effective for modern production facilities, but is still useful in special applications. I use HSS when threading inside receivers. Here, my chicken- heart induces me to use slower speeds and the HSS produces a nicer finish. GD

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My brother just made two of these 30 degree fixtures for grinding HSS threading bits.

It is set at a 10 degree tilt

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Last edited by BS2; 04/01/23.

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I almost never run any lots--usually one of a kind custom parts, mostly in stainless. But every once in awhile a client needs a small lot.

Stainless bearing races for an out of production roller furler.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Left-hand-threaded zincs for refrigeration on a superyacht.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]

Delrin filler plugs for deck hold-downs on a superyacht.
[Linked Image from i.postimg.cc]


"There's more to optics than meets the eye."--anon

"...most of us would be better off losing half a pound around the waist than half a pound on our rifle."--dhg

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