Home Forums Gear Hunting Trucks and Four-Wheel Drives Driving a dually with 5th wheel camper?

This is the closest to a truck forum that we have on the 'fire, so I'm posting my question here.

My wife and I have decided to upgrade our 26' bumper pull camper to a ~36' 5th wheel, and to get a truck to pull it. First stop is the truck.

I'm planning to buy a new 4WD one-ton diesel dually, but I've never driven a dually much at all, so I thought I'd ask about driving them. What are the issues / hazards / difficulties with driving a dually? And with a 5th wheel camper? Aside from the wider rear wheels, of course.

To be clear, I'm not asking for opinions on which truck to buy, since I've already decided on that. I am asking for tips on how to drive it. Thanks in advance for your help!

Nothing to do with driving one but don't plan on reaching over the bedside to grab anything from the bottom of the bed.

Why the duals?

Other than that, point it East and mash the pedal. Make sure you use the compression brake frequently to keep from sooting up the turbo. Don’t use it as a grocery getter, or you’ll have trouble with the after treatment system. Don’t idle any more than absolutely necessary. Don’t baby it, that diesel needs to work to stay somewhat clean inside.

Yup. Have the same problem with my lifted 3/4 ton. I carry a 2-step stool to access the bed.

Thanks, Dutch. I want a dually for maximum towing capacity and safety. In hind sight, I did not buy enough truck when I bought my current 3/4 ton Duramax in 2018. Don’t want to make that mistake again.

And we do not plan to spend much time East. We will be in the west mostly.

This truck will not be a daily driver. I bought a 2022 Toyota 4-Runner TRD Pro Premium for that last year.

It will come with an exhaust break. Is that what you mean by compression brake? Silly question perhaps, but I’m a newbie to these things.

Thanks again!

It is a pickup!
Not an 80,000 lb semi.

Common to see the fenders tore up, that's about it.
If you go full bed, 4 door, they are long connected bitches. Clumsy in some parking lots.

5th wheel or goose neckwear the pants off bumper pull.
Easier weight distribution,the load is on both axles. Not behind the drive.
Better turning, better backing.


Never understood the laws on this crap.
A single axle dump truck can require a CDL. A trailer >10k#.
Testing, physical, enhanced regulation.

Mom and Pop Kettle ain't never driven anything but a mid size car, think a minivan or
dually Is HUGE.


They go buy a pickup, 40' of tall trailer weighs 12k# empty.

"And They Are Off to The Races"

One of the biggest threats on the highway, an RV passing you is a bigger worry than
what's ahead.

I've had them try to come over before the pickup was clear of my bumper, 30'+ of trailer behind it!

Absolutely no need for a 1 ton pickup. The 3/4 ton Ford F250 is the same truck as the 1 ton except for an additional leaf in the rear spring. In the 1 ton you gain 600 lbs of load. I have been buying 3/4 tons for years and I just buy a set if air bags and run the pressure at about 30 to 35 lbs. The advantage of the air bags is you can lower the pressure when you are not pulling for a more comfortable ride. 1 toners ride must stiffer than a conventional 3/4 ton. Another advantage is the 3/4 ton sits lower than the 1 ton.

Absolutely no need for a 1 ton pickup. The 3/4 ton Ford F250 is the same truck as the 1 ton except for an additional leaf in the rear spring. In the 1 ton you gain 600 lbs of load. I have been buying 3/4 tons for years and I just buy a set if air bags and run the pressure at about 30 to 35 lbs. The advantage of the air bags is you can lower the pressure when you are not pulling for a more comfortable ride. 1 toners ride must stiffer than a conventional 3/4 ton. Another advantage is the 3/4 ton sits lower than the 1 ton. The air bags run about $350.00 as compared to around $600.00 to go to a 1 ton. They aren't that hard to install and you can level your pickup and camper by running lower or higher air pressure.

An extra set of tires underneath the weight of the hitch can be handy if you've ever blown a rear tire pulling a big trailer.

Is gearing not different in the 1-ton vs 3/4 ton?

Consider getting a flatbed installed. People who haven't driven a dually will often ding up the rear fender flares and the flatbed will give you better access to whats on/in the bed.

About the only thing a dually gives you is MAYBE a little less sway. Extra load capacity is minimal. I have had both. I can't comment on a 1 ton ,vs a 3/4 ton. Mine have all been 3/4 ton. My last two trucks have not been duallys.. Those trucks have had a short box and four doors. One, I pulled a 20 foot gooseneck running about 17,000 pounds total.This one, instead, I have a slide in pop up camper and a bumper pull 3 horse slant trailer, running about 18,000 pounds. It has load leveler hitch.

I might mention. Compare gasser to a diesel. If you go with a new diesel, buy the extended warranty. Mine was about $3000. Caution, they tell you it takes over after the new warranty. If you have 3 year new warranty, the extended ten year it is in addition to the new warranty. So if you have new three year new, you will have 7 left on the extended. One injector pump failure will eat up most of that $3k. With a few repairs and fee oil changes I am close to $3K. My last diesel, a 98, I paid about $24 K for it and close to $25 K in repairs.

You have to buy 6 tires instead of 4 and There is precise way to mount the duallys. Mine had small slot in the wheel that had to be matched with the other one. I loaned it to a neighbor and he tore off a dually fender. I only had to replace tail gates.( Invest if an air gate)

The dually had an 8 ft bed, stretch cab, and I pulled 20 foot gooseneck. I cussed every time I had to turn it around or put it in a tight space.

Check your state and any states you plan to travel in.Some now have restrictions that require a CDL for longer units. You would probably be looking at almost 50 feet

I pull a 35'....driving is no big deal you will get used to it.....put a flatbed on wayyyy easier....pulling with a dually there is defiantly a difference between single vs duals ....if someone is worried about buying 2 extra tires they probably shouldn't take any trips and spend that extra on gas .... you didnt ask but I pull with a 1 ton f350 dually 4x4 crew cab long bed 6.7 deleted deiseal 4.30 gears....screw all that air bag crap buy the right truck and equip it right from the factory.....I also have 3/4 ton trucks single axel ...but if I pull heavy I use the dually....bob

since it is not your daily driver set it up just for pulling...you wont regret it....bob

What I am saying is you by two extra tires for minimal gain. Put a set of good, stiff side wall tires on it. Why would someone run 4:30 gears when std 3:55 or close will pull a 36 ft trailer for a lot less fuel. I see a lot of ranchers pulling 36 ft stock trailers, loaded, with 3/4 ton's. Plus look at the registration/license/insurance and initial cost between the two. Having one truck is lot different than having several trucks. Plus if you delete it, you void all warranties.

As far as driving if you have been pulling that shorter trailer, you won't have any problems. Getting into tight places is a chore.If you are looking at a short box, keeping the trailer from coming around and meeting the cab in real short turns can surprise you. The eye opener for me was, although a regular pickup has little traction on the rear wheel if not loaded, driving a dually is like having two balloons in back. With a 5th wheel siting on it, that is a nonproblem

SS....my truck is for pulling heavier loads so it will be loaded or pulling when in use so the 4.30s work well....I have owned a few trucks and to be honest when pulling they were all pretty close in fuel milage.

if I was using one truck to do everything then I would go with the singles .....but this truck is pretty much only used to tow......people also used to pull trailers with straight sixes...just cause you can ....he is setting up one truck for towing.

true about the lack of traction with a dually...but as for me I only drive 4 wheel drives....so no problem.

ins/tags/etc is a concern if you are on a tight budget....bob

We have two F350's equipped with bale beds.

One is DRW, one is SRW.



The DRW has about twice as many leaf springs under it and can handle way more weight without squatting like a bitch.

The SRW was basically unusable with two heavy bales loaded so I installed a set of Timbren's. Massive improvement, a total game changer, they are the real deal.



If I was serious about weight and pulling down the highway I'd go DRW.

If I was pulling and hauling off road I'd go SRW with the Timbren's.




As for driving, no difference between the two until you get in the mud and snow.....lol

Won't they let you test drive one??

SS.....the 4.30s are in my 22 250 7.3 gas.....4.10 in my dually...got them mixed up....sorry for that....bob

Thought so. I had 4:10's in my Ford 3/4 T dually gasser. It has been awhile but its' top speed empty was 85 mph,460 engine, 8mpg. 3 mpg going up Loveland and Vail passes. My Ram diesel , with 3:55's would out pull it easily at 12 mpg loaded.

Yea, being retired, I am on a tight budget with all these medical bills

Thanks for all the great advice, gents! I really appreciate it!

The one we are looking at is a 2024 Sierra 3500HD long bed with Denali trim. It has most of the bells and whistles!

I own a dodge 3/4 ton and a ford f350 drw.

I love the dodge for pulling decent sized trailers. But if I have a big trailer or a lot of weight, the drw is my go-to.

No offense to anyone here, but if people are considering a new pickup at today's prices, the only consideration should be getting thebest equipment for the job. No quibbling about extra tire expenses, fuel mileage, taxes, registration etc. If you're buying an $80-$100k pickup, these other expenses are a pittance.

this is the point I have been making.....a note about fuel milage on all the diesels I have owned when towing they all get pretty close to the same milage....shi'tty....but thats the price to pay/play/work...I like the deeper gears....bob

if you are going to pull heavier the diesel is the only way to go.....sorry about the med bills....not on a tight budget yet.....yet being the key word but its coming.....bob

This pretty much sums it up.....

Where a dually really shines with a tall, heavy load is stability. I don't mean whether is squats or not, I mean when you have a 20 mph side wind (which is fairly common out west), you WILL notice the difference the two extra wheels in back make, PERIOD.

As far as just weight most campers don't actually weigh that much, but they wind catching SOB's.

Never take anyone's advice who says buy a 3/4 ton for a 36' trailer. Unfortunately most 3/4 tons today are made for soccer dad grocery getter crowd, a 1 ton now is about the suspension equivalent of what a 3/4 ton was 15 yrs ago. . At the least get a 1 ton, even if its a single wheel. They don't ride much stiffer than a 3/4 ton. I drive a single wheel 1 ton everyday, it's only a tiny bit stiffer than the 3/4 ton it replaced, still very comfortable.

Bill

there is no doubt about it....those extra 2 wheels seal the deal on the road its not even close.....bob

You must not be reading the new trucks specks. A new Silveradao 2500 HD, Duramax is rated for 23000, pounds, GVCR. True enough though my first reply was that duallys help sway. As for a soccer dad comment, I run right at 17,500 pounds , camper horse trailer animals and gear.That is hardly a grocery getter.

I think the OP's 1T GMC is rated a 33,000 IIRC.

I have an 83 Ford super 250 dually. Blew an outside rear dual and took out the fender. $3500 to repair it so I spent $4500 to have a flatbead on it, never blow out a fender well again.

Pulled Rv's for a living for a couple years and not many guy's pulling with duallys, I didn't! Worst problem with a dually is winter driving. Having all that rubber on the road in ice and snow is about like having plywood sheets for tires, pretty slippery! had a 2000 dodge with a Cummins in it then. Have the old Ford Intenational now. Word about exaust brakes. Not so sure how they work on a one ton but had one on a road truck years ago, You could hear it rattle but it didn't slow ya down very well. Don't know how they would work in a one ton. In my 83 I have a four speed and the trans hold it back pretty good by itself. Dodge had an auto and didn't hold much back! If I was going out to get a new one ton or even 3/4T it would have a 4 speed trans in it! For me pulling a load with an auto trans would be a no-no! Must admit I've never driven a truck with a diesel that had an auto in it and would not relish the idea! Been down far to many steep hills in diesel trucks and no retarder, learned about hot breaks the hard way!

My statement about grocery getters wasn't directed at anyone here saddlesore, just a statement from experience having both 3/4 ton and 1 ton pickups over the last 30 yrs and how the suspensions have changed. I always drove 3/4's too until my last one, i ended up having to do add a leaf, sway bar etc. because it was loose as hell with a heavy load.

With a couple of my trailers its nothing for me to gross over 20k, the 1 ton handles it much better. One three horse slant with living quarters weighed 13k before you ever put a horse in it.

I know Chevy does a little better with their 3/4's but look under one of the new standard 3/4 ton Fords. Two (yes 2) full length springs with a little bitty helper, pretty flimsy. Look at the suspension of an F250 of 15 years ago and you'll see my point.

I take manufacturer specs with a very large grain of salt. They rate trucks for things I wouldn't be caught dead pulling with said truck.

As people that tow a lot, you and both know this also, a lot of stuff will "pull" things, but being able to stop that SOB if it gets squirrely is just as important.

Bill

Don’t ever plan on buying a new truck then. None of the big 3 have put a 4 speed in a 3/4 or 1ton since the late 80’s. And I know 2010 was the last year for manuals in Fords for sure GM as well I think, Dodge may have held onto the 6sp until 2012 or so but I know the diesel was derated with the manual by then.

New pickups, more specifically new diesels and automatics are so far ahead of a 6.9 Ford in power and handling it’s like comparing a covered wagon to a space shuttle. If you’ve never driven or pulled anything with a modern diesel and a modern auto trans you’d be completely blown away.

To the OP. With a trailer like you’re talking about I would definitely opt for the dually. As others have said it’s worth it for the wind and sway of what is basically a giant sail you’ll be dragging behind you. If you’ve ever had a trailer get squirrelly and start weaving and pushing the ass end of your rig around you know what I mean, if you haven’t I promise you don’t want to. Be sure and get a full width dually too and not a cab and chassis dually which is narrower, the difference noticeable with a big load in high winds or if it’s a little unbalanced.

Gm did have a manual behind the 496 3/4 and one tons from 01 to 07 but they are a little hard to find.
If the trucks purpose is to pull rv, dually is nice.

With all the bells and whistles on the new trucks you shouldn't have any problems driving. When using the truck around town just park out by yourself and walk a little. 3.73 or better yet 4.10 gears will be perfect for what your trying to do.