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I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.


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I think the key words are "if done correctly." If so, then it should be fine...but some recommend the clamp-on variety.


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Originally Posted by DaveinWV
I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.

Dremel the front sight off.

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Originally Posted by DaveinWV
I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.

If switching to a set screw type, dimple the barrel properly and then use blue loctite. I've never had any issues doing it this way..


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
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Originally Posted by GreatWaputi
Originally Posted by DaveinWV
I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.

Dremel the front sight off.

Why a dremel when an angle grinder with a cut off wheel is so much faster?? Might as well line up other things to be cut off too. Like the bayonet mount on my SKS. Then throw a floppy on and polish that sob out for good measure.


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by GreatWaputi
Originally Posted by DaveinWV
I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.

Dremel the front sight off.

Why a dremel when an angle grinder with a cut off wheel is so much faster?? Might as well line up other things to be cut off too. Like the bayonet mount on my SKS. Then throw a floppy on and polish that sob out for good measure.

If I wanted any shi t out of you I'd squeeze your head. Like no one has ever cut down a fixed front sight post.

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Originally Posted by DaveinWV
I have an AR-10 .308 with the pyramid front sight. I want to change the gas block to a railed top type. Are set screw types reliable for staying in place if done correctly? The front sight/gas block on it is pinned. I bought a night vision scope off the classifieds and want to be able to mount it.

1) Try the new optic with your existing FSB (A-frame front sight) in place before you decide on drastic measures.
It may give you an acceptable co-witness or it may blur out depending on power.
2) The FSB on an AR is the only part that is unique on an AR, so save the FSB and its tapered pins in case you ever want to "go back"
They are unique to that barrel.
3) Use a steel gas block instead of a cheapo aluminum gas block for best results.


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Thanks for the inputs. I'm going to check the view through the scope without any changes first. A low riser may do what I need if I need a little more height.


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Getting into reloading to save money is like getting married for free sex.

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