Bob, as with most things in my life, at my age I'm trying to simplify as much as I can. "We get too soon old and too late smart." More and more I rely on simple binary alloys of tin & lead. Mixing, matching, and conducting late night seances over the lead pot with range scrap + wheelweights + type metal + plumber's lead, etc. etc., more often than not leads to "usable" alloys but which can rarely be accurately duplicated. And further consideration must also be given to hardness shifting over time with antimony&arsenic bearing alloys (think wheelweights and type metal) - tin/lead alloys don't do that, what you get after casting them is what you still have forever more.
I can't help but think that our forebears got good results consistently with simple tin/lead alloys, before antimony and arsenic reared their ugly heads and "harder is better" became the cry across the land.
Tin isn't cheap, but a smart shopper can find deals. Mixing with dead soft (pure, or nearly pure?) lead at a ratio of 1:10 to 1:20 makes for a bullet that'll serve most of any man's needs. 1:30 and 1:40 alloys are surprisingly useful too if all you're shooting is low-vel rifle and pistol loads. (My .32-40 target rifles dote on 1:30, as do my .38's with wadcutters.) On top of that, when you hit upon the ratio that works, it is easily, and more importantly accurately, replicated in the next casting session, on and on ad nauseum.
All that said, my .25-20 work begins and ends with 1:20 tin:lead.
Last edited by gnoahhh; 05/23/23.