Kinda getting into long range shooting, for me long range is 700ish. My longest shot ever on game was just under 400 yards on an antelope in SE WY and used my 243 Win. I've picked up a Fierce Rifles Ti action, carbon fiber in 7mm PRC and a Zeiss Conquest V4 scope. Looking at scope mounting and reading about bedding the bases to the receiver and the scope to the rings. In the past, I've always lapped the rings doing the most competent job at it that I could, taking my time with it. I know opinions are subjective, but curious to hear if bedding will be more beneficial. Using Talley Lightweights and at the moment, not interested in another mounting option as I like as few pieces involved with mounting a scope as possible. But admit, long range is new to me after 50 plus years of all of this and not trying to be set in my ways... So... my question after all of that is, to bed or not to bed...
After watching a guy using JB Weld for this on a you-tube video, I'll need a different mind set! Lol!
Thanks,
Dean
It isn't what happens to you that defines you, it's what you DO about what happens to you that defines you!
Lapping will mostly just keep your rings from marking the scope.
Bedding two pieces bases with a jig or carefully bedding a one piece scope base will correct any planar differences between the front and rear ring.
Which will protect the scope's finish but mostly it helps lighter thin walled scopes to track correctly. The heavier tubed 30mm scopes will generally track no matter what.
I guess you could bed talley lightweights using an old scope or lapping bar to align them.
How do you remove the bedded scope base and bedding material if you ever needed to?
that`s a good question i would never do that myself , i also would use Picatinny mounts over those mnts. and not glue anything.
I only bed a mount if needed. Most don’t need it. I agree with Pete. I’d buy a one piece rail, and use good rings. You shouldn’t have to bed anything, except for the receiver. Some guys way overthink this schidt and create unnecessary problems for themselves
Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.
How do you remove the bedded scope base and bedding material if you ever needed to?
Back in the day before the nanny EPA banned whatever made epoxy remover actually work, that was the solution. The stuff they sell now as paint and epoxy remover barely touches the stuff. If you plan to remove or separate something, use a release agent like wax on at least one surface.
Of course you can melt or burn it off. Not a good option.
Stupidity has its way, while its cousin, evil, runs rampant.
I used to use release agent when I bedded them. Now I bed directly to the receiver when I am certain of the setup and know I won't be changing it. They come off fairly easily with heat not too high to hurt anything.
Thanks for the comments and advice, truly appreciate it. Lots to think about, without hopefully overthinking it, and will go from there. I do find it interesting all the things guys use as a release agent, different waxes, shoe polish...
It isn't what happens to you that defines you, it's what you DO about what happens to you that defines you!
How do you remove the bedded scope base and bedding material if you ever needed to?
Not a dumb question at all.
I use a release agent on the receiver...just like you would when bedding an action. If you wish to, you can omit the release agent. If you want to remove the bases at some time, warming them up with a hair dryer for a couple of minutes and a light tap will pop them loose.
Here's another example of how little contact these bases can have.
Bases after bedding but before clean up...100% contact.
Al's pictures above are excellent and pretty much tell the story. If a scope base doesn't fit the receiver and you don't bed it, you induce stress on the base when you torque it down. When you subsequently install the scope you transfer much of that stress to the scope tube. Draw your own conclusions.
How do you remove the bedded scope base and bedding material if you ever needed to?
Timbermaster; Good afternoon to you sir, I hope the day down in your chunk of Montana is behaving and you're well.
With the understanding that I'm only a guy who fools with firearms as hobby/addiction and would recommend whatever Al says has been sound as far as my experience and understanding goes - here goes.
Most epoxies are not heat resistant and will degrade or fail above 275°F, though JB weld might need as much as 600°F so they seem to indicate. I've used a propane torch with a small tip as well as a heat gun and prefer the latter for sure. If one is concerned about overheating the metal, a heat gun is much harder to do that with and there are many decent infra red thermometers out there now for about $50 which will let us know the actual temperature of the metal.
Personally, I started using 5 minute epoxy on metal surfaces which did not precisely match - as Al has shown with his photos - in industrial woodworking applications and on our friends and families harder use firearms way back in the '90's. About that time in Peterson's Hunting, a writer who had guided in the Bob Marshall - Ed Nixon - outlined how he'd modified a "do all" BSA that he headed up to Alaska with in the late '50's. He wrote of using 5 minute epoxy for that purpose and that it worked for him.
We'd got into horses and hunting from them as well as had friends in far flung places who hunted from planes, quads and jetboats and as mentioned we were searching for a solution to having the bases loosen off. It made enough sense that I started experimenting with Ed Nixon's idea.
The method we've ended up currently using is that both surfaces are cleaned, then the epoxy is applied in such a way that it will not contact the retention screws. Great pain is taken to prevent that from happening, they're just there as indexing pins. Once the epoxy is cured, we'll test to make sure they can come out and then they're just tightened back up without a bonding agent.
None of the rifles which have that modification have loosened up afield in some regular and some fairly hard use across 3 western provinces and at least a couple in the Yukon too.
As always, my way isn't the only way and might not be the right way for anyone else either and that's an acceptable position to take.
Brad says: "Can't fault Rick for his pity letting you back on the fire... but pity it was and remains. Nothing more, nothing less. A sad little man in a sad little dream."
As usual, Al is right on the money. If you read Tony Boyer's book, he takes it a step farther. He centers the crosshairs in the scope by running the adjustments from stop to stop then backs off half way. This gets the erector tube in the middle of it's adjustment range. He sets his rifle on a rest with the bore sighted on target. He then will shim the scope as needed to get the scope aligned with the target. With shims in place he then will bed the scope in the rings.