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https://footedshaft.com/collections

Good knowledgeable source for all things traditional.

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Footed carbon shafts are nearly bombproof from a recurve/longbow. My footed Goldtips shoot as good as any aluminum I've tried. I think you'll like 'em.

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If you want the straightest and most consistent arrow, then aluminum. XX75 have the best weight consistency, shaft to shaft, and they spine at what Easton lists them. Carbon are seldom the spine indicated and vary even within a dozen. Which is fine but remember that changing brand means a bit of difference in spine.

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Have been shooting traditional for almost 30 years.

Started with aluminum, then on to wood, cane, and bamboo. I love the romance of wood, but with todays prices and quality....yowsa! frown

Have been shooting carbons for many years now, got serious when I could get the weights up to the 10gr per pound with the heavier inserts, points, and broadheads.

Consistency, durability, and flexibility make them an easy choice.

I still shoot some wood arrows, but aluminum have been gone for a very long time. Majority of my serious shooting and hunting are with carbons.

Last edited by CRS; 06/02/23.

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Can not beat carbon. A tuned bow flinging port orford is a thing of beauty, but consistency and durability, and allowing you to tune to an exact weight, carbon is the answer. Aluminum? You don't need that in your life.

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Originally Posted by RHClark
... Do not cut carbons to length and expect them to shoot perfect. Youu need to start full length and bare shaft tune cutting as little as 1/4" at a time.

....

Thank you! I would have cut them to length if you wouldn't give us the warning. What kind of cutting tool do I need to cut them to length/to let them shoot perfectly?


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Originally Posted by ElmerKeith
[quote=RHClark] ... Do not cut carbons to length and expect them to shoot perfect. Youu need to start full length and bare shaft tune cutting as little as 1/4" at a time.

....

Thank you! I would have cut them to length if you wouldn't give us the warning. What kind of cutting tool do I need to cut them to length/to let them shoot perfectly?[/quote

I always had use of a professional arrow cutting tool but I've been told a Dremel would work. I always bare shaft tuned, cutting from the nock end.

One other thing. Shoot lots of bare shafts only using the average as an indicator. Any inconsistency will affect them so much you don't need to cut after just a couple shots. Also always confirm your evaluation by adding or taking away tip weight, this will prevent a false reading from an arrow bouncing off the riser.

When I was shooting competition no one cared if they had an inch or three inches of arrow sticking off the shelf at full draw.

Last edited by RHClark; 06/06/23.
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Exactly. Shoot them full length and go from there. If you have the correct spine, you can tune with points or washers. Video your arrow flight from behind with your phone and watch it in slow mo. It will be a game changer and you'll be throwing darts.

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How well you can bare shaft tune will depend on your shooting form. If you are really good, you can shoot them as far as 60 yards and really see what's happening. I've seen guys try bare shafting that thought they had the correct spine. Some spines were so far off they would slap a target sideways at 10 yards. I will shoot 20-30 shots though before cutting because everything has to be perfect with release and form or it will really show.

One caution. Don't try bare shafting broadheads at long distances. Some designs can catch wind and do exciting things. I've tuned my target bow so that you couldn't tell the difference between feathered and bares shafts at 60 yards. You have to be really on your game though. I was shooting over 100 arrows every day back then while competing. It would take me a while to get back to that level..

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RHClark is spot on. Has been my experience as well.

That is why I like carbon, can tune them to perfect bare shaft flight. I have shot bare shaft carbons out to about 40 yards. It is pretty cool when one can stack bare shafts on top of each other at that distance.

If you want heavier arrows, cut them a little shorter and increase insert/point weight. Likewise, you can leave them longer and go with lighter inserts/points to decrease arrow weight.

Have never had any luck trying the same tuning procedure with wood arrows, in fact, pretty dismal results. Have never messed with aluminum.


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Good luck guys. Just cut small amounts at a time. I've been able to tell the difference with just 1/4" cut. If I had cut a half inch, it would have been too much.

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I find aluminum easier to tune. Less effect on trimming than carbon.
I shoot both, but for hunting, I go with aluminum. The carbon arrows that most guys shoot just don't have the straightness and consistency of weight and spine found on the XX75. If you can find them in your size, the X7 is fantastic. Same specs as XX75 but a harder alloy that resists bending more than the XX75.
There are some very good carbons but the price is a reflection of their quality control

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I’m a KISS guy when I tune carbon. I cut them to length to remove that variable then tune with point weight…hasn’t failed me yet. Plus I’m not fighting with arrows longer than they need to be….YMMV

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Originally Posted by Biathlonman
I’m a KISS guy when I tune carbon. I cut them to length to remove that variable then tune with point weight…hasn’t failed me yet. Plus I’m not fighting with arrows longer than they need to be….YMMV

I would hope there wouldn't be much of a fight with an arrow an inch too long. Your approach will possibly work if you don't care how heavy your arrows are. I prefer picking the point weight I want to shoot. When you find the correct length, all are cut that length.

Your approach likely won't work at all for someone with a short draw. Let's say someone buys arrows spined for a 50 lb bow but has a 26" draw. Cut those arrows that short and it might take 300 grains to get them shooting. Personally, I prefer not to shoot boat anchors.

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I agree with RHClark. I like to build for weight vs length. Only downside might be different length arrows could mess up gap shooters.

Too heavy, they drop too fast. Too light, not good for bow longevity.

When down to final tuning, I have even gone to cutting an 1/8 of an inch off.


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Originally Posted by CRS
I agree with RHClark. I like to build for weight vs length. Only downside might be different length arrows could mess up gap shooters.

Too heavy, they drop too fast. Too light, not good for bow longevity.

When down to final tuning, I have even gone to cutting an 1/8 of an inch off.

I want to make sure everyone understands that once you get the correct length for spine,all the arrows will be the same. You don't have to tune each one to the extent that they will be different lengths. Sometimes gap shooters like arrows a certain length but I've shot with a couple world champion gap shooters that just tuned their arrows to whatever length worked and shot them. They just figured their new gap if it was any different than their old one.

The good gap shooters I've shot with didn't really consciously put their arrow tip in a calculated way over, on, or under a target. Now they might know their point on is 40 yards and if they miss that target once they will have a much better estimate next shot if the target is very close to their point on either way. They just have an awareness of their arrow tip in relation to the target and through repetition know what the sight picture needs to look like. They always shot just as swiftly as anyone else. One I know was an excellent wing shot on foam discs with flu flu arrows and he made videos on his gap shooting technique.

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54 pounder at 29/30. Get a 400 spine and a 175 grainish point and shoot your bow. You'll have 450 grains of arrow. Forget cutting anything. Just shoot. I have nailed about 20 deer with a black widow kb 3 pulling 52 at 30". All pass throughs but 2, which hit the opposite shoulder on one, and the spine of another. I've used about a dozen different points, 2 blade, 3 blade, 4 blade, with carbon. Your arrow fish tailing (side to side) out of your bow will tell you what needs to be done. If the arrow fletching kicks right, it's too weak, cut arrow or use lighter point. If fletching kicks left, your arrow is too stout. Look up the archer's paradox, may explain it better. Tune for what your bow likes. I like a fast arrow, but I'm a deer guy. An elk or bear guy may want heavy. But I'll bet you money, marbles, and chalk your bow will shoot darts with a full length 400 and a 150 to 175 grain point.

Last edited by Coyote10; 06/10/23.
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Might want to look at the 3 Rivers arrow spine calculator.
Its pretty good.
If you enter in the correct data.

30.5" GT 400s, w 100gr insert and 125 gr tip bare shaft fine out of my Blackwidow PSA2 at 46#.
Came out perfect on the calculator, once I fudged it by changing shaft length input by .5" since the brass 100gr insert is longer than the reg aluminum one.
Form factor was zero.

Not that I have great form, but am average size/build and consistent. Consistently bad or good or mediocre? LOL

I did have some 340s from my compound and I got them to fly decent, but the tip weight was a lot, and even when calculator and shooting proved them good, I found excessive frontal weight made the arrows slooooooooooooow, and not as forgiving of release.

My 400s fly faster, shoot great and are forgiving. Currently am running the regular Hunter series. Have shot the Pros before, in compound and recurve and like em. But for popping deer under 25 yards (no more 3 D shoots for anything other than fun)..........I just don't need to run the more expensive shafts.
Would go Hunter XT if a shop has em.

FWIW, will broadhead test each shaft, before hunting with it, in case one is outta whack.

Last edited by hookeye; 06/11/23.
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I have a longbow that I shoot both 400's and 340's out of.

Weight difference is about 90gr of weight. 540 vs 630.

Hunt targets, deer and antelope with 400's, and elk with 340's


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Well chit. Been using GT carbons since 2002 and put inserts in w hot gun glue. Works great. Am careful about heating tip w insert attached, (propane torch). Glue that and then slide into shaft ( tip and insert assembly held by pliers ).

Have done it hundreds of times, even remove and replace. Think I damaged one. One.

New batch of lower end GTs, damaged 3 out of 6. Scrapped em all, tossed my 100gr brass inserts in trash too. Not worth my time to remove adhesive.

Must have gotten a less than ideal batch.

Last edited by hookeye; 06/12/23.
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