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Hello, my name is James Langston, I have a J. PeterLongo Austrian Drilling 1912 that I purchased from Gun Broker a month ago. It's been a challenge also with the cartridge but still working it. I have fired the drilling about 40 times so far but my brass has an issue. Had to purchase a scope and make my own rear mount base. I have and issue with the brass from Bertram USA so this is what I emailed them.I purchased 100 pieces of 6,5x70R brass from Bertram Brass USA. On the bottom of the rifle barrel it is stamped 6,3 1/2. Back then they measure from the lands (this is just for your info). I have some questions about the brass that may have to be answered by the techs or your re-loaders/sizers. I inserted some pics also to show. Here is the issue that I am having. I have a set of RCBS dies. Every time I size a round of brass it leaves a small crack about 1/4in around in the same place (middle). Ample amount of RCBS case lube is used, and also have taken the center of the sizer and looked inside if there were any defects, none that I can see. After sizing and trimming, the brass fits perfectly in the chamber. At the range the ammo all fired perfectly but the cracks lengthened, I do believe that this is only to be once fired brass, and at almost $5.00 a piece of brass, this is not feasible. I do not believe with the craftsmanship and technologies of the old Austrian gun makers that this was an issue. I have come up with some theories that may explain the issue.
1. There is too much brass to resize in the die. (extremely hard to resize) Bertram should test the brass in RCBS dies in your factory to look for cracks.
2. My RCBS dies are not made correctly/incorrect tolerance.
I was wondering if you have heard any other issues with this round being reloaded, or please give me what is causing the problem.
I only have about 55 piece's of new brass left and I don't want to reload anymore since I can't fix this issue. At $479.00 per 100 pieces, you should understand. I have been reloading for over 20 years and this is the first with the main body cracks. Thank You, James (I would like to begin a thread with anyone, or others that have this obsolete cartridge). I also have all the load data and I had to pay for it from a European site.I am having difficulty and cannot insert my photos so this is my address if you want some photos and info. jimmysabrinagmail.com Thanks,

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Suggest you anneal the brass before reloading, down to below the mid point. Usually brass cracking or splitting upon firing indicates an oversized chamber.

Because an old rifle is marked xyz does not mean it has not been altered or changed over the years. Next step would be to make a chamber cast and make sure the chamber is of correct size or is not defective, like cracked or gouged.


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I did that on 2 cases. They still cracked during/after resizing, and were still hard as hell to resize. I sent an email about this issue also to RCBS. Hopefully next week, Bertram Brass and RCBS will contact me also with recommendations. till then I am on hold with reloading this brass. After firing the 40 rounds that I reloaded on the range, I did not have any cracks on the heads or bases, just extended the initial sizing crack in the center larger. I am going to look into different makers of 6,5x70R dies. All of the makers might have different tolerances.

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These are not high pressure rounds you should be able to just use something like a 6.5 Grendel die to size enough of the neck to hold the bullet. Then if the brass gets hard to chamber just run it into your 6.5x70 FL die a little at a time until it chambers again.

In tried some Bertram brass in my 6.5x58R ànd it would split on the first firing.and I had to anneal it before I could load it the first time. The stuff I got was hard and brittle and very thin... I had much better luck making brass from 9.3x72R, a lot of work but it ended up being much better than the Bertram stuff.


After the first shot the rest are just noise.

Make mine a Minaska

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First of all, I will be calling Bertram Brass USA tomorrow to see what their Aussies have to say about it. For the price I paid for this ammo it should be in better tolerances and thicker for all makers of 6,5x70R dies. Second, I understand it is an obsolete cartridge, but if you have a world wide business, you would want to make good stuff to stay in business. Third, did they test this brass and run it through multiple die's for defects before selling. Forth, after fully sized and trimmed, through hell on my tendons,muscles, re-loader, and numerous stuck cartridges,the brass fits perfect and bullet fits perfect and snug, I can pull it out with my little pinky finger nail, which I am purposely growing for this drilling, I still have to deal with the small crack. I bought this brass so I can reload to save money.

Now lets talk about you making brass out of 9,3x72R. Does the 6,5x58R/9,3x72R have the same head size as the 6,5x70R? Who makes the 9,3x72R brass that you used?
All I want is brass that does not crack while loading, and after shooting, and can expect to reload many times after. My old bones hurt for days after sizing this brass from Bertram. The 40 rounds fired at the range was a breeze to resize.But your right about the thickness in the brass, much better for reloading and no cracks for longevity.

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Post a picture of your new brass alongside a piece of unsized once fired brass and a piece of the cracked brass. Trying to imagine from your description of the problem is hard às I've never heard of brass cracking in the middle from sizing. Firing yes, sizing no.


After the first shot the rest are just noise.

Make mine a Minaska

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Pic of new brass,crack while sizing, larger crack after firing.

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Maybe a better pic

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What cartridge are you loading for? You bought 6.5x70 brass and dies and then cut a half inch off the case. Is this basic brass that needs to be trimmed to 70mm?

If so I'd trim first then size and then only size enough for the brass to chamber. It sounds like you have a large chamber. The 9.3x72 Brass I use has a much larger head for the 6.5x58R Sauer.

Last edited by erich; 04/29/24.

After the first shot the rest are just noise.

Make mine a Minaska

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Yes, bought the brass from Bertram Brass USA. Has to be formed and all cases are around 76mm long, and not all all annealed. Will be buying an RCBS Rock Chucker Press. I have and old cheap Lee that has broke over the years and last time loading the 6,5x70r had to weld. Will anneal a little lower and trim before sizing. Do you recommend a better case lube than RCBS case lube?

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Yes, Imperial sizing wax.


After the first shot the rest are just noise.

Make mine a Minaska

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Ordered Imperial size wax. Also attached a pic and rear mount setup of my Drilling. Had to make the rear clamp that is welded to the rear scope mount. Kahles Helia Wien Super 8x

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Finally corrected the cracked sized brass. Thanks to "Rapier" for telling me about trimming first and then the annealing process, and "Erich" about the Imperial Cass Lube.First of all, I purchased a used RCBS Rock Chucker press, you need a good strong press. Make sure you use Imperial case lube. Now these are the corrections that I took . First, trim the cases to the specs (70MM). Then anneal the top to the bottom to about 9mm from the bottom of the rim. I used a drill,drill bit, and a propane torch. Once annealed and cooled, give each case an amply supply of Imperial case lube (amazing stuff). When resizing only go down about a fourth at a time, and then go back all the way up, and milk the case like you are milking a cat's nipples. Do this every time. Stop on the press until around 9mm, don't go all the way down. You must take your time and milk the case (stroke the cat nipples) every one forth inch. If you do it to fast you will crunch your case, (pic attached), only happened once. Once all cases are formed, trim to specs (70mm) again. Note, some cases were harder to size than others, just take your time and remember the one forth rule, (milk/stroke with Imperial). Out of 27 sized, no cracks. Before loading your brass, run each one through your chamber to see if it locks with no issues, if you have issues, just run that brass through the die a little deeper to get it right. I loaded 21gr IMR3031, Remington #9.5 primers, and 129gr Spitzer bullets. Hopefully this will be my pet load. Now I'm hoping that none of these cases crack at the range, and I will have many more reloads from this brass. P.S Bertram Brass and RCBS never contacted me back from the emails that I sent them. With my trials and errors, I am hoping that other people will read these threads and keep the old 6.5x70R still alive. Lone live J. PeterLongo

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Success!! Went to the range, shot all of the 27 rounds that I loaded (one bad primer 26) and no cracks in the brass. Did notice that the 100 grain Hornady spitzer boat tail that I had 11 still left from the previous reload, and all cracked midway in the body brass, grouped better than the 130 grain spitzer off brand name bullets that I got from Midway. The Remington primers 9.5 with the 130's mostly leaked and some came out of the brass case, so I will not reload with them anymore, and had one that did not ignite, will stay with the CCI. Ordered from Ebay a Neo Weight reloading scale. I noticed my old school Lee powder measure dispenser and scale is getting harder and not as accurate on dispensing the precise weight of grains. Will stay with the IMR 3031 powder, but does burn dirty. Next in the future, I want to purchase a chronograph. Did have to make some modo's to the rear scope mount to secure it better and adjust/line up the left/right recticle to the barrel. Made sure the scope adjustments were set to 0,center,even distance before that. Will go back to the range in about 2/3 weeks to set the zero. This will only be my main shooter at the land and farthest set range is 125 yards. Pic attached of my other land/camp rifles 1941 Mauser 8mm, and 1956 Savage 99 in 300Sav. Long live J. Peterlongo!

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I have owned several drillings and ran into a similar difficulty with a Thieme & Schlegelmilch in 9.3 X 75R Nimrod. Brass had to be made from Bertram 9.3 X 82R brass at about the same price. I only lost two before I solved the problem with much the same practice as you.

I have a Johann Peterlongo, 98 Mauser in 9 X 71 Peterlongo cartridge that is simply magnificent. The last deer I killed I shot with that rifle.


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Please send me a pic. Also go to www.germanhuntingguns.com to read up on J. Peterlongo.

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I've been a member of the GGCA for 14 years and have had that site bookmarked for.....10 years? I've read all of it at least once, great site.

How do I send you a picture? I don't see how to post it here without a host and I'm finished with hosts.

Last edited by sharps4590; 05/16/24.

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Send me a pic at jimmysabrinagmail.com I hate posting pics on this site because of the max KB's. Pics are so blurry and spotty. I hope this info that I put out on this site will help others with the 6.5x70R. It sure was a challenge for me, but I conquered it with no help from Bertram Brass USA and RCBS. I wish there was more info on J. Peterlongo. All they talk about is JP Saurer and Sohn. I could only imagine how there were so many gun makers in the late 1850's to the 1930's world wide that were creating there own amazing cartridges.

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I thought Peterlongo was still in business but I might be confusing him with Johann Outschar who I'm positive is still building high end firearms in Ferlach. I have an exquisite Johann Outschar stalking rifle on a Henry Jones underlever action.

Some previous owner mounted a Lyman 57 or 58 on my Peterlongo. I love those old steel Lyman and Redfield receiver sights. I haven't used a scope in 30 years.

I'll send the picture next time I'm on my desktop, I don't have e-mail on my laptop.


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Very cool Drilling, I love the offerings from Peterlongo/Mahrholdt for a number of reasons. I believe the scope mount you show a depiction of is designed by Schüler, I have the same bases on an early Oberndorf Mauser.


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