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Originally Posted by RMiller2
My Lyman book does not have shotshell data in it. I was using a paper that came with the slugs. A bunch of internet searching reveiled the same page that was from a Lyman load book.

Before you do any more shotshell reloading, you really need to buy an actual shotshell manual. From it you will hopefully learn proper reloading procedures as well as the necessity of using the correct components. Just mix and matching components Willy-nilly like you are currently doing is a foolish way to go. At best it is a waste of components and at worst it can lead to damage or even injury. Shotshell reloading is not rocket science but it does take some knowledge and a heap of common sense. Lacking either is frustrating, lacking both is folly.

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The only substitute I used was the hull.

I do need to study a shotshell manual though.

I am not finding any 20 garage sabots so this project may be on hold for a while.

The problem I am having with factory slugs is the primers are so far in that my handi rifle is misfiring with them. The back of the shells looked dished. It was just Remingtons at first but now I am seeing it with Horandy rounds as well.


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This is the load data I got with the 200 Lyman 20gauge slugs that I ordered 3 or 4 years ago. The biggest problem is that most of the components listed do not exist anymore. Winchester AA20 were discontinued a while ago.


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Again, buy and read a shotshell reloading manual. The hull is a very significant part of a load and substituting "only" the hull can have consequences. One could deduce that from just the data you have on hand but a manual will or at least should give the reasons one should not do this. Once more, buy a shotshell reloading manual and read it. It will make the learning curve shorter, cheaper, and most definitely, safer.

IC B2

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