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Edge geometry has little to do with what you are asking that blade to do.

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Quit splitting the pelvis. And for 99% of applications splitting the sternum isn’t worth the bother either.

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Originally Posted by Delkal
Like many others supersteels S90V had outstanding edge holding ability but relatively poor toughness and is prone to chipping. I would not want it in a hunting or bushcraft knife that can be subject to abuse, save it for an EDC folder. For cutting into animals you would be better off with 1095 or one of the high carbon tool steels.

Not sure why that link said S90V was tough. It is extremely wear resistant but that is not the same. But here is everything you need to know about S90V and chipping from Bladeforums.


s90V


How about you post some pictorial evidence to support your assertions? I killed and processed my 3rd of 3 Alabama bucks at my winter home last week. Deer season ended Monday. Will now, through turkey season, stay down here then meander back up to my home in Idaho to sluice a spring bear. Killed 68 hogs during this period last year, and am betting it will be more this...


Originally Posted by RHClark
I have to agree with Vince here. I recommend assigning that knife to lighter duty and go with plain old 1095 carbon. Honestly, I have some very expensive knives, but I use an Ontario Knife company butcher knife for processing. I've actually hacked through leg bones, just to see if I could and not even micro chipped it as far as I can tell.

Dexter Russel Green River makes some great knives that will be perfect for you as long as you aren't hacking through leg bone. You won't have a problem with ribs.

The DR is flat ground from the spine and the Ontario grind starts much lower, giving it a thicker edge perhaps better for heavy stuff. It will still get shaving sharp easily.

Looks like Ontario may not be readily available, but I've bought several at thrift stores over the years. DR will treat you very well for $20.

In the last thread we discussed that you have done ONE hog in your life, and have none in your AO... Why do you feel qualified to keep interjecting on these threads?


You can no more tell someone how to do something you've never done, than you can come back from somewhere you've never been...
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Originally Posted by Journeyman
Originally Posted by Delkal
Like many others supersteels S90V had outstanding edge holding ability but relatively poor toughness and is prone to chipping. I would not want it in a hunting or bushcraft knife that can be subject to abuse, save it for an EDC folder. For cutting into animals you would be better off with 1095 or one of the high carbon tool steels.

Not sure why that link said S90V was tough. It is extremely wear resistant but that is not the same. But here is everything you need to know about S90V and chipping from Bladeforums.


s90V


How about you post some pictorial evidence to support your assertions? I killed and processed my 3rd of 3 Alabama bucks at my winter home last week. Deer season ended Monday. Will now, through turkey season, stay down here then meander back up to my home in Idaho to sluice a spring bear. Killed 68 hogs during this period last year, and am betting it will be more this...


Originally Posted by RHClark
I have to agree with Vince here. I recommend assigning that knife to lighter duty and go with plain old 1095 carbon. Honestly, I have some very expensive knives, but I use an Ontario Knife company butcher knife for processing. I've actually hacked through leg bones, just to see if I could and not even micro chipped it as far as I can tell.

Dexter Russel Green River makes some great knives that will be perfect for you as long as you aren't hacking through leg bone. You won't have a problem with ribs.

The DR is flat ground from the spine and the Ontario grind starts much lower, giving it a thicker edge perhaps better for heavy stuff. It will still get shaving sharp easily.

Looks like Ontario may not be readily available, but I've bought several at thrift stores over the years. DR will treat you very well for $20.

In the last thread we discussed that you have done ONE hog in your life, and have none in your AO... Why do you feel qualified to keep interjecting on these threads?
Why do you feel like you have to be an ass hole? To ignore you go. What a know-it-all SOB you are.

I've personally made knives from many different steels and have decades of experience testing them. What a dick you are.

Let's just shut the fuging forum down and install you as the know it all in charge. You are obviously a superior POS.

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Originally Posted by Journeyman
Originally Posted by Delkal
Like many others supersteels S90V had outstanding edge holding ability but relatively poor toughness and is prone to chipping. I would not want it in a hunting or bushcraft knife that can be subject to abuse, save it for an EDC folder. For cutting into animals you would be better off with 1095 or one of the high carbon tool steels.

Not sure why that link said S90V was tough. It is extremely wear resistant but that is not the same. But here is everything you need to know about S90V and chipping from Bladeforums.


s90V


How about you post some pictorial evidence to support your assertions?


Its obvious you didn't read the link I posted. It might make you sad that S90V has some faults but you can take that up with those mean people on Bladeforums. There are a number of high end knife makers and knife snobs there that know a lot more than you do, And in one of those links there was even a post by the person who developed this steel and he admitted it would chip more often than even S60V.

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My question - that I intent to answer by testing in the manner described - is, whether or not, I can get this knife to not show chipping at the apex after use in the manner described (splitting cartilage/tendons with possible bone contact - no hacking - as well as cutting hides and meat during field dressing deer and boar by simply changing the apex angle. Theory would lead me to Go larger ;-)

I will report back.

Meanwhile - i appreatiate your thoughts and Input in the matter.


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Originally Posted by RHClark
Originally Posted by Journeyman
Originally Posted by Delkal
Like many others supersteels S90V had outstanding edge holding ability but relatively poor toughness and is prone to chipping. I would not want it in a hunting or bushcraft knife that can be subject to abuse, save it for an EDC folder. For cutting into animals you would be better off with 1095 or one of the high carbon tool steels.

Not sure why that link said S90V was tough. It is extremely wear resistant but that is not the same. But here is everything you need to know about S90V and chipping from Bladeforums.


s90V


How about you post some pictorial evidence to support your assertions? I killed and processed my 3rd of 3 Alabama bucks at my winter home last week. Deer season ended Monday. Will now, through turkey season, stay down here then meander back up to my home in Idaho to sluice a spring bear. Killed 68 hogs during this period last year, and am betting it will be more this...


Originally Posted by RHClark
I have to agree with Vince here. I recommend assigning that knife to lighter duty and go with plain old 1095 carbon. Honestly, I have some very expensive knives, but I use an Ontario Knife company butcher knife for processing. I've actually hacked through leg bones, just to see if I could and not even micro chipped it as far as I can tell.

Dexter Russel Green River makes some great knives that will be perfect for you as long as you aren't hacking through leg bone. You won't have a problem with ribs.

The DR is flat ground from the spine and the Ontario grind starts much lower, giving it a thicker edge perhaps better for heavy stuff. It will still get shaving sharp easily.

Looks like Ontario may not be readily available, but I've bought several at thrift stores over the years. DR will treat you very well for $20.

In the last thread we discussed that you have done ONE hog in your life, and have none in your AO... Why do you feel qualified to keep interjecting on these threads?
Why do you feel like you have to be an ass hole? To ignore you go. What a know-it-all SOB you are.

I've personally made knives from many different steels and have decades of experience testing them. What a dick you are.

Let's just shut the fuging forum down and install you as the know it all in charge. You are obviously a superior POS.

Thanks for the reply. As everyone here expected you're talking out of your ass and don't have a clue. Actually, THAT is the very reason I'm an [bleep]. Di(kheads with no experience steering people asking honest questions in the wrong direction need called out for the poseurs they are...


You can no more tell someone how to do something you've never done, than you can come back from somewhere you've never been...
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Originally Posted by Delkal
Originally Posted by Journeyman
Originally Posted by Delkal
Like many others supersteels S90V had outstanding edge holding ability but relatively poor toughness and is prone to chipping. I would not want it in a hunting or bushcraft knife that can be subject to abuse, save it for an EDC folder. For cutting into animals you would be better off with 1095 or one of the high carbon tool steels.

Not sure why that link said S90V was tough. It is extremely wear resistant but that is not the same. But here is everything you need to know about S90V and chipping from Bladeforums.


s90V


How about you post some pictorial evidence to support your assertions?


Its obvious you didn't read the link I posted. It might make you sad that S90V has some faults but you can take that up with those mean people on Bladeforums. There are a number of high end knife makers and knife snobs there that know a lot more than you do, And in one of those links there was even a post by the person who developed this steel and he admitted it would chip more often than even S60V.


Poor try, troll. No one asked for a link to another forum (where by the way, most of the knife guys here have been members for decades). The question was YOUR experience...???


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Originally Posted by Journeyman
Poor try, troll. No one asked for a link to another forum (where by the way, most of the knife guys here have been members for decades). The question was YOUR experience...???


Did you bother to read the OP? He chipped his S90V blade and I don't think he made it up. nSo it can happen unlike your observation S90V is bulletproof. I don't have a S90V blade but have chipped a D2 blade and it was a PITA to try and fix it. I would have rather rolled an edge on a 1095 blade. Super steels can be brittle.

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Originally Posted by Ready
My question - that I intent to answer by testing in the manner described - is, whether or not, I can get this knife to not show chipping at the apex after use in the manner described (splitting cartilage/tendons with possible bone contact - no hacking - as well as cutting hides and meat during field dressing deer and boar by simply changing the apex angle. Theory would lead me to Go larger ;-)

I will report back.

Meanwhile - i appreatiate your thoughts and Input in the matter.

PM sent...


You can no more tell someone how to do something you've never done, than you can come back from somewhere you've never been...
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Originally Posted by Delkal
Originally Posted by Journeyman
Poor try, troll. No one asked for a link to another forum (where by the way, most of the knife guys here have been members for decades). The question was YOUR experience...???


Did you bother to read the OP? He chipped his S90V blade and I don't think he made it up. nSo it can happen unlike your observation S90V is bulletproof. I don't have a S90V blade but have chipped a D2 blade and it was a PITA to try and fix it. I would have rather rolled an edge on a 1095 blade. Super steels can be brittle.

I never asserted that S90V is bulletproof. Your reading comprehension is in line with your overall IQ.

Also, AGAIN...read the bolded part!

Question is YOUR experience...


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Originally Posted by Journeyman
Poor try, troll. No one asked for a link to another forum (where by the way, most of the knife guys here have been members for decades). The question was YOUR experience...???



And here is why you should have read some of the link I posted about people having problems chipping S90V. Since you are a long time member of Bladeforums you should know who EJT is. He makes crucible steels for knife making and had this to say about their S90V. It was a followup to someone saying S90V will chip.

Quote
dsvirsky is pretty much on the mark. S90V (yes, new name for our CPM 420V) offers higher wear resistance than S30V. S90V is a much higher alloy (higher vanadium) steel. Higher vanadium means it will hold an edge longer (when under abrasion, anyway) but will be harder to sharpen. S30V on the other hand will be more forgiving than S90V for chipping, and will be easier to sharpen than S90V. Wear life of S30V will be longer than D2 or 154 CM, but not as long as S90V. The S60V (new name for the 440V) falls between the other 2 for wear (30/60/90) All 3 are CPM (powder metallurgy) grades.


So why would the developer of this steel even mention S90V was prone to chipping? I guess you think you know more than he does.


S90V

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I'm done with this. It is obvious, and by your own admission, you have zero experience with the topic.

FWIW Ken Pinnow, William Stasko, and John Hauser developed and hold the patent, with Crucible as assignee for 420V.

Phil Wilson gave me his recipe for it in 2003 or so and I've heat treated a lot of it.

Have knives from (me), Phil, Scott Cook, Benchmade.... f it...whatever I say won't matter.... I'm out.

Sorry for trying to help.


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Originally Posted by Journeyman
Sorry for trying to help.

Many of us were trying to help the OP. But even with all your experience with knifemaking using this steel you were just blasting anyone even remotely dissing S90V steel and you didn't offer any advice to the OP about his issue.

You and I are done on this thread but why don't you help the OP and answer his question about the edge geometry? And recommend things he could do to prevent this from happening in the future?

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For what its worth - I am very happy for being able to ask such questions here and with the answers I am getting. Thx.


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I don't have a dog in this fight and don't know where it ran off the rails. With that said, Journeyman is a good dude who knows what he speaks of, based on a lot of experience and study. I am not saying any other poster isn't knowledgeable, just that Journeyman has my respect and I value his opinion.


Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
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Perhaps we also need to be clear about our vocabulary?

What I called a "chip" maybe another mans "nick" or constitute a "ding" for the next guy. The damage done is perceivable to the naked eye (light reflection on the blade), by touch (fingernail) and in paper. The chip is 0.2 mm long and not more than 0.05 mm deep. It constitutes really only a disruption on the very apex. Someone less a*nal might call it a stropping error.

I only mention it, because it is just deep enough to not be able to rectify with a slight pass on a ceramic hone. It will take a sharpen to apex the blade. Will report.


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