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Hi all,

Spent 3 days running around central PA in search of a bear with nothing to show for the efforts. Took my new 35 Whelen built on a Mauser action and after spending 1 day running around wet mountain laurel, I have NO finish left on my stock. Needless to say, the stock got wet, swelled and I'm assuming lost zero.

I used 3 coats of LinSpeed (sp?) oil on the stock initially. Won't be using that again. I'm looking for suggestions for a waterproof, durable finish. Thanks.


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Yeah, I used to use Linspeed too until I had the same experience you had. Stock finishes seem to involve trade-offs. Things like appearance, durability, ease of applying, and touchup. I've had decent luck with Brownell's Gun Sav'R Custom Oil in a spray can, either gloss or satin. Easy to apply and seems to be durable. I like the satin, but to get/keep the satin effect you can't do a final rubbing or it will turn glossy. OTOH, if you don't rub it out, the final coats will have a sprayed look, if that is a concern. Being an oil-modified urethane it seems to be pretty tough stuff. What really interests me is using epoxy, either as a base coat or a final finish. You could probably do a search here and get some info on how it works. I'm told the you can use epoxy as a base coat, and then rub an oil finish over it. Might give the best of both worlds, tough but easy to touch up. I haven't tried epoxy, but I'm planning to. Stock finishing seems to be a black art. I've done several stocks, but I'm still learning.



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I have used and like Pro-Custom oil. It is a combo of Tung oil and urethanes. I usually apply anywhere from 10-20 coats depending on the piece of wood. Remember you want the finish in the wood, not on it.

Here is link for Pro-custom oil, I get it at Brownells.

Pro-Custom


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bwinters,

As I re-read your initial post, I noticed that you used three coats of Linspeed. That is very little, and I assume you weren't trying to fill and level the pores. Like Steelhead said, to do that requires upward of twenty coats, filling and sanding repeatedly until the pores are filled and the finish is level. If you don't care about having all the pores filled and you just want a tough utilitarian finish, here's what I would do. I did it once on a grungy SKS stock and it worked great. Remove the old finish and sand your stock. Get some Brownell's AcraGlas and mix up enough for one coat, maybe a couple of teaspoons worth. Be sure to follow the intructions about mixing to a "T", as the stuff is really intolerant if you don't get it just right. Rub it throughly into the stock with your hand. Then take a hair dryer and go over the stock. it The heat will cause the syrupy AccraGlas to get watery, and the heat will help the stock to absorb it. Rub it some more, then wipe the excess off with paper towels, then let it harden. Do this as many coats as you want. Plan carefully and lay out all your supplies, then work fairly quickly as the AcraGlas will begin to harden in about 5-10 minutes and will be hard to wipe off. You may want to wear rubber gloves. I don't use a glove on my wiping hand, but some folks are allergic to epoxies. Have a bottle of rubbing alcohol and plenty of paper towels to remove the AcraGlas from your hands, tools, etc. Another thing about Acraglas, you can sometimes get away with saving the left over mix in your freezer for about 24 hours, but it still stiffens up, so for stock finishing I'd recommend a fresh batch for each coat. BTW, I was hunting bear in the rain when the LinSpeed washed off my rifle. Colorado, about 25 years ago,
Good luck!

Paul


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Paul, Steelie,

I did fill the pores by steel wooling the LinSpeed onto the stock till I filled the pores - not sure how many times I did this (~10-12). I applied 3 additional coats after I did this.

I really like the epoxy finish idea - should seal the wood. I'm hoping Mule Deer will respond as I seem to remember he had a waterproof stock finish technique that I can't recall.

Thanks for the responses.


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My stock finish is a coat of epoxy with whatever finish you want to use over the top of it. Oil finishes work great then. Oil finish will soak up more water, faster than bare wood.

I pre-heat the stock (in the oven) until it is at the edge of being too hot to hold... about 110F I would guess. Hotter is not better here. I use slow-set epoxies only as they are harder and the significantly greater open time allows the vacuum created by the cooling stock to suck the finish in deeper.

I put the epoxy everywhere and use my finger, which is not likely a good thing. The finish you choose to put over the epoxy is there for two purposes, looks and ease of repair (I guess you could go for a tough finish on top but that involves different compromises) and the best for that in my opinion are oils.

Urethanes and modified urethanes are not great looking finishes so they add oil for looks, which significantly compromises the finish. The idea of making it easy has come down to making it easy to explain, not make it better.

My whole process has been typed out here a number of times and if you have problems finding it just holler... it is fairly long when all the details are left in... and I type slow. <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
art


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steelhead
In my semi-lab tests of the Pro-Custom oil it did not fare too well for water resistance. It is a little finicky for a top coat IME, but the freshness of ALL oil finishes is critical. I hope it continues to work for you but I am a bit concerned about it as a stock finish.
best to you
art


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Sitka Deer,

I've been searching for the posts on your epoxy finishing technique, but can only find bits and pieces. I'd really like to get down to the details, if they are available. Maybe a PM, if you're so inclined. I understand about typing - I'm a two-finger man myself. Can you recommend a brand/type of epoxy, and where it can be obtained in the lower 48? I note that the stuff you use and Lee are Canadian. TIA for the help.

Paul


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Art,

I also did a search and found an interesting exchange amongst stock finishers a year or so back. I tend to agree with your statements concerning epoxy sealing prior to an oil finish. I've tried numerous finishes on recurve bows I've made and settled on polyurethane but it is far from perfect.

I can relate to your typing cause I'm a hunt and peck guy myself. If your up to it, I'd really like to try your finish method. Is there anyway to find your previous post and do a copy-paste so you won't have to re-type it? Or forward the post and I'll look it up.

I really appreciate your taking the time to respond.

-- BW


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Went back to search again and found a thread listed "Sitka Deer stock finish" in the Hunter's Campfire from 2/18/02.

See if I summarize your process:
1. Heat stock to ~110 in oven
2. Mix G-1 or G-2 Epoxy
3. Smear on stock in an even manner using God given utensils
4. Allow to cure, lightly sand to even out finish
5. Re-apply light coat to fill in sand-through's.
6. Apply oil based finish.

A. Epoxy - what is G-1/G-2 epoxy and what are suitable substitutes
B. Can I use the Linspeed as the oil finish after the expoxy?
C. Any tips to applying the epoxy? I auume you put it on as sparse as possible, while covering the entire surface. I've built a dozen or so recurve bows and always end up with more epoxy on my hands, bench, tools than on the bow.
D. Any opinions on steel wool vs sand paper for final sanding?

Thanks alot Art.


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BW pretty well summarized my questions. I'm also curious, what kind of oven does it take to fit a one-piece rifle stock? Two pieces no problem, but I don't think I could get a rifle stock in my kitchen oven! Thanks again for sharing your wisdom.

Paul


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bwinters, Paul
That is a fairly concise rundown of the process I use. The critical aspects are the slow-curing epoxy for strength and better absorption by the cooling stock.

I have the hot tub installation guy here finally... a very long story, but I will finish this up later... but quickly...
ANy slow-cure epoxy I have used worked very well except some that are water-thinned that are used for injecting rotting logs in cabins. Cold-Cure and West System are two I have used a number of times, in addition to the Industrial Formulators stuff from Canada which I believe I bought at Garret Wade last time...

Use lots as it really soaks it up, especially on end grain like the inside of the grip and in high-figure areas...

I do not use steel wool anymore...
more later
art


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bwinters, Paul
Pms sent to each of you...
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Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.

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