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Tim,

How do you check runout on NPGold slugs?

We just do this here: [Linked Image] and guess some more [Linked Image] [Linked Image] [Linked Image] The things you can accomplish when you don't know anything....

GB1

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Lots of input to the discussion. Thanks.

Can you show a coin collection?


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Quote
Can you show a coin collection?


That's actually kinda funny.


"Dear Lord, save me from Your followers"
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I`m not the enemy as you guys portray me.....

I can share hard earned knowledge, with anyone.

I just ain`t hip on solids, but love Noslers.

I do have radar to Bullshit tho, and it goes off on many posts.


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I can show you a coin collection if interested.


"Dear Lord, save me from Your followers"
IC B2

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With high antimosity I say "sure".


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Back to the original subject about concentricity guages.

To make an analogy with cars, there are some people who just want to turn the key and drive. Others are always tuning their cars adding an new exhaust, new tires or whatever. Some people just want to load up and shoot, others are going to tweak every variable that they can to try and get the most out of their guns.

Neither is right or wrong. People just have different levels of interest. If you don't have or want to spend a lot of reloading time maybe concentricity isn't something you'll want to pay a lot of attention to. If you are someone who enjoys the details of reloading a Concentricity guage CAN help you improve the quality of your loads.

So give a little thought about which type of reloader you are and spend accordingly.............................DJ


Remember this is all supposed to be for fun.......................
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Very well said.....

I have gone way out of the way on hunting rifles to insure top accuracy.

It is a priority with me as many here know.


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With high antimony, I say DJ, yessir.

A gauge is handy to check your decap rod, your chamber, whatever. If your stuff works, it works. Nothing wrong in striving for the Nth degree in your equipment; just don't spend all your time worrying about stuff that doesn't matter, Hondo.

To fiddle with stuff while much larger things are broken is folly.

No, Tim, you are not the enemy. I'm sure you are a grand fellow.

For the record, YOU were the one who posted the coins......

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Well, those are what happened when I got my head screwd on to win our local 600 yd matches.

They mean a lot to me, as the competition is tough.

We shot today for the October match, and as luck would have it I won the match, and earned the small group coin for a 2.109" group at 600 yds.

I am celebrating and the beer is flowing and fixing to cook outside for the sweet wife, some deep fried catfish and hushpuppies. She just ran to the near beer store for reinforcments, and all looks grand.


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Sounds like a good time Tim!

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Thanks Sam, you`re a good person, let me just say,

Life is good..........


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Vote...........REPUBLICAN.........to keep it that way!!!


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I've own the Sinclair and it has been a wonderful and very helpful tool on my reloading bench for years.

It will only drive you nuts if you don't know how to respond to what it's telling you, but that's what forums like this are about.......

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Nicely put.

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Originally Posted by VAnimrod
Hondo;

How far do you, really, shoot at game? Punching paper might require every nth degree of whatever you can muster to get a group size half-a-silver-[bleep]-hair smaller than the other guy...... but shooting critters, unless they are REALLY damned small, or REALLY damned far away ain't that hard. 1/2 MOA will keep you in the vitals to 1600....... 1 MOA to 800+. If you aren't getting better than 1 MOA (and seeing some of your results, I KNOW you are) with handloads, some fancy meter ain't gonna get you there any faster than better loads will. If you're sub-MOA, how far away are you, really?

Ask Jamison what works to plunk pronghorn in the punkin', at 500+...... I don't reckon it'll be one of the two things you asked about, but whatever his answer, it works.


I'm just one of those guys where often the pursuit isn't whether or not it's good enough, but rather, "how good can I make it?"

John


If my people, who are called by my name, will humble themselves and pray and seek my face and turn from their wicked ways, then I will hear from heaven, and I will forgive their sin and will heal their land. 2 Chronicles 7:14
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In that case, you just answered your own question; and either will probably get you closer to "there".




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Originally Posted by Tim_in_TN
Life is good..........



Damn right brother!

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Thumper, You bring up a good point. In my first post I was trying to keep my explaination simple of the two methods for setting up the RCBS gauge, and I was aware of that. What I was getting at is that sometimes the run-out is greatly exagerated by cases that blow the back end of the case out (and this is exagerated more when you partial FL size,) and cause a lot of run-out that really isn't there. When I tip a case down steep in the gauge and place the front block towards the case mouth, I drop my allowable amount of TIR down to .002". Most of my chambers have been cut by gunsmiths or barrel makers and I usually set up the front block right behind the shoulder.

How I happened upon that was with one of my 308's. All my ammo was around .010" TIR, and just eyeballing it, you could tell it was the back end of the case causing it. I moved the front block up to the case mouth and the TIR went all the way down to zero on most loaded rounds. Sometimes, you have to be smarter than the gauge. That was primarily what I was getting at.

On a 308 length case, I would agree, you need to add a thou and a half to measured TIR when using the method in which the front gauge block is placed at the mouth of the case.


I'm Irish...

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I have the Casemaster and it is fine


That which does not kill us makes us stronger

Friedrich Nietzsche
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