Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing weaver vs fillister heads on scope bases

I'm changing some bases to 8x40 screws (rifles are already done)

since i'm buying all new screws and tools and can go either type, is there any advantage or disadvantage to either style?

thanks in advance

Torx.

Torx first, slotted second, everything else dead last...

i must be misunderstanding something, isn;t the weaver head the tapered seat, and the fillister the flat bottomed seat style of machine screw head? regardless of the drive type (torx/slot/hex)?

OOOPS.. My bad.. I read the post too fast and wasn't paying attention, obviously..

Scope bases should have the tapered heads (Weaver style) while the filisters are usually found on the rings..

And just use blue Locktite, not red, when seating the screws..

+1 for Weaver style base screws. A far better choice for bases as they locate the base precisely.

RAN

thanks guys thats what i needed to know. I will go torx drive for sure as well

Wait just a minute........

The question was "weaver vs fillister heads on scope bases".

I must be missing something here as I went 8-40 fillister heads and 8-40 counterbore on my Leupold DDs and Talley lightweight mounts. A recessed fillister in torx style is what most scope bases use (Leupold, Burris, Talley etc). Weaver style heads are for shallow bases like the cheapie alloy weaver bases. I've even used the filisster heads (recessed) on steel weaver type bases, looks waaay cleaner.

If you use DD bases, STDs, Weaver steel bases or Talley alloy go fillister head style.

MtnHtr

And so do recessed fillister heads just as well if not better.

MtnHtr

Huhhhh?????? With all respect, I think you mis-read again. Many factory bases use fillister style heads.

MtnHtr

This is what a fillister head screw looks like:

fillister head screw

Fillister head screws can have flat bladed, phillips, Torx and other drive methods.

On bases, I usually spot face the base screw openings and use button headed Torx screws for more contact area between the screw head and the base.

button head screws

Do you mean oval heads versus fillister? I've thought of this before and think oval heads would be better because the bases are countersunk and would get full contact from the screw. Bases which use fillister heads, which are nearly all of them, permit some slop in the screw hole. I always wondered why all bases aren't countersunk as I would have to think this would be a more secure system.

I hate tapered head screws for bases/rings with a passion. -Al

It makes little difference. The fillister (flat)head screws allow some movement of the base prior to tightening if such is necessary. The tapered head locates the base poitively. In either case, the base is properly held in position by the friction between the base and the receiver. The screw provides the force which produces the friction load. I'm a firm believer in epoxy under the base and am not overly concerned with the screw type. GD

The problem with the tapered base holes/screws comes when the holes in the reciever aren't perfectly aligned....the countersunk screws will jack the bases out of alignment when tightened.

I like the base holes to have a bit of wiggle room around the screws but still have a good flat area for adequate clamping between the screw head and the base. The button heads are great for this. I bed every base to the reciever to assure 100% contact...once this is done you don't really need to tighten the beejeezus out of the base screws.

I use this alignment jig to make sure the bases are in line with each other. Works great.

Al,
I like that jig. I'll have to make myself one. I also agree with your screw choice. As you said, a flat surface gives a bit of wiggle room. It's not really something I worry about though.
I also bed all bases to the receiver. It's just the best way to ensure full contact and no tipping. GD