Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Gunsmithing Model 70 Action Wrench

Hi,

I want to pull the barrel from my Winchester Model 70 (375 H&H) and was wondering two things:

1) Do I need an action wrench to do this?

2) If so, does anybody know where I can get one? I searched the Midway catalog and called them too, but both I and the person I talked to came up with nothing for a Model 70 action wrench. Maybe there's a universal wrench that works? If so, could anyone give me a link or phone number to get one? Or if there's an easy work-around, please let me know!

I have a barrel vise already.

Also, if I pull the barrel and then later screw the same barrel back on, I shouldn't have to worry about the headspace changing, right?

Thanks!

Brownell's, part # 080-800-070AB

Price 109.97 + shipping..

1-800-741-0015


BEFORE you remove the barrel, ensure you use a punch to install a 'witness' mark (at the exact junction of the shank/receiver) so when you re-install it you can line up the marks to ensure HS stays correct..

Thanks! However, I just tried a search for the part number (copied and pasted)at Brownells and it came up with 132 items. I'm still working on it though...

Edit: OK, I found it...for $114 + Shipping! So now my question is will the one below (for $67 + shipping) do a good job? I don't anticipate having to pull use this wrench often. I was just thinking that rather than pay someone $50-100 to pull (and later re-install) the barrel, I would buy a wrench, do it myself, and then have the wrench to keep for the same price. $120 makes me think it would be cheaper to pay to have it done.

I did find this:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16140&title=ACTION%20WRENCH

It says it works with all but the round actions, by which I assume they mean Savage 110 and Rem 700. Anybody try one of these on a Model 70?

Thanks again!

Hey there Alaska sharp pointy stick daddy, try this link on for size.

Action wrench

Don't you just love Brownell's search engine. Takes less time to go get the catalog.

Thanks 3sixbits! Your link worked great. (I gotta learn how to post a link!) That's the Cadillac of action wrenches for sure! I was hoping to find one for cheaper, and maybe one that might work for some of my other actions too.

Someone on another forum suggested a Wheeler #1 wrench from Midway. It's listed for Rem 798, Rem 799, and Mauser #1 actions. Anyone know if it will work on a Winchester model 70? It's less than half the cost of the Model 70 specific wrench from Brownells!

Redneck,

Will a Mauser action wrench work for a pre-64 Model 70? I don't want to buy another wrench either. Thanks...Bill.

One handle and many heads. I think I have many of the heads and just one handle. I think I have all of the heads except two or three. I never get a call to have the need for the others.

Most guys that do barrel work will tell you that the object is to not damage the action. What that means is you have the best fitting wrench you can find.

I used to have a wrench that I used in a shop I used to work in that was built by a top smith from G&H. It was the slickest wrench I ever used and handled just about everything I had a need to rebarrel, Wish I had kept that wrench, when I left that shop. I tried to make one like it and had no luck. I broke down, bit the bullet and bought the Brownell's. I know a guy in this day and age needs to save a buck, but how much will you save if you mar or twist the action?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ACTION-WRENCH-mauser-winchester-ruger-flat-btm-receive_W0QQitemZ370166504393QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item370166504393&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50


try this one it is reasonable

Yes.. And when you're installing the wrench on the action, make SURE you place a shim of non-marring material between the wrench and the action to ensure no marks end up on the action..

I use a piece of aluminum from a Coke (or similar) can.. Works every time..

...which reminds me: I HATE the new catalog.. NOTHING is in places it used to be from all the catalogs before.. I wish they'd bring back the old format..

Thanks to all who responded, and especially to those who took extra time to help me search for what I needed! By the looks of things I'm not the only one who learned from this! That's the beauty of these forums:you can learn something new and you don't even have to know you have a question!

Since I have an order going in to Midway soon anyway, I'm going to go ahead and order the Wheeler Mauser action wrench (#1) from them. For one, it's the cheapest, which matters since I may only use it once. Second, it sounds like it works not only for the Model 70, but also on most non-round actions, and since I have a few Mausers (I don't plan on pulling their barrels, but who knows?) it could come in handy in the future.

Thanks again, and good shootin'!

Hmmm... I know a pretty well respected smith who just uses a really big crescent wrench on Model 70's... And he's built some super rifles!

Many thanks to you Sir!!!

I believe you need a action vice and an action wrench to safely/properly remove a barrel.

You should have matching marks on the barrel and receiver if you intend to return the old barrel to the action..If you have done anything to that action in the meantime you need to always double check the headspace, that takes about 5 minutes max.

The fact that you must ask these questions tells my your in need of some instruction before you do this. It will save you a ton of grief in the long run.

That's what was taught at one of the gunsmithing schools apparently. That's was Derrick Martin uses and clamps his vice to his mill stand. Gunsmiths are creative!

The pre64 model 70 has some features of the receiver that probably influence the action wrench design. The reciver is roundish on top, has a flat bottom, and an intregal recoil lug. Most action wrenches feature an abiility to use bushings in order to better fit the grip. In the case of the 70, a roundish bushing(semi circular) can be used to grasp the top of the action, while a flat section on the bottom applies pressure there. Some of the flat section types will have a notch for the recoil lug, some do not.

My homebrew wrench is typical of a semi circular feature on one jaw and a reverseable bottom jaw(flat or semi circular feature) in the bottom jaw. Wrenches can be elaborate or simple in makeup, I do favor the ones with the ability to take semi circular inserts to better fit the top of the receiver; especially handy in the round actions.

I have not ever tried a wrench that has a "v" in one of its jaws, pretty flexible I guess, but always used the bushings; just my opinion over the years. I have always had the fear of the v type possibly slipping a bit(mar), probably just my own lack of working knowledge with such.

One slip of the wrench is a heart breaking affair, as it usually mars the receiver, so the time/effort to set up is important. I have found over the years, that one can apply a lot of pressure to the action/thread area with the bolts of the wrench, and actually makes the job harder to remove(can compress). I had to learn that the hard way I am sad to say. Some people use at least masking tape over the barrel and action surfaces during removal/assembly, some even use a lead or soft brass shim on the action surfaces. One last comment is that sometimes a sharp blow like an impact wrench can break a stubborn barrel over placing say my 275 lbs gradually. In some of the military surplus stuff or even some current brands, the shoulder of the barrel has to be relieved to release the pressure and remove the barrel; which of course disfigures the existing barrel.

To say the least, the first time barrel removal(or even later ones....:-)) can be quite an event, good and bad. Do your homework, visit with your gunsmith to pick up technique; a 375 pre 64 is quite a nice piece you have; just a great rifle.

FWIW

I will not argue with the fact that some coaching would do me some good. That said, notice I didn't just go for it? I'm asking lots of questions, my eyes and ears are open, and I am learning. Furthermore, I'm even asking questions that I think I know the answer to, such as the question about headspacing. The barrel already had witness marks on it when I asked the question. I also have the appropriate headspace guages. I just wanted to be sure my understanding was perfect.

Thanks to everyone who have contributed, and especially to redz06 for taking the time to discuss details. Through (even more) questions elsewhere I've already learned a lot. I found a local store where I can get thin brass sheets to make shims out of. Others have used copper tubing (split lengthwise), plastic pipe, etc to keep from marring their actions. See? I'm listening and learning. Certainly it would be best if I had a gunsmith buddy who lived in my area who could have me over to his shop and show me how to do it, but lacking that, I'm humble enough to ask lots of questions, and wait to start the job until I feel confident I can do it well.

I confess that the real reason I haven't just taken this to a gun shop and had a "qualified" smith do it for me is that I'm a chronic tinkerer, and I'm excited to learn how to do as much as I can for myself. Even if it costs me more to buy an action wrench than it would to have a gunsmith pull and re-install the barrel, I'd rather spend a few dollars and a few hours extra, learn a new skill, and have a useful tool to boot. I think that's a sentiment lots of people on this forum can understand!

Thanks again to all who took the time to contribute to my education, as well as (I'm sure!) to the education of many other forum members. That's what this is all about, isn't it?

Well its too bad that you don't have a good gunsmith locally to help you out..it always saves a lot of grief, but learning the hard way is always the best way if you can learn by your mistakes. It is a costly process however. there are some good books out there on smithing but having a hands on smith and someone to call when you hit a stump is really a good thing. Good luck and be patient.

Two things come to mind. Patiences is the best advise in gunsmithing, never get anxious and in a hurry, if it gets stressful, walk away from it and come back in an hour or the next day. The other is "if it ain't broke, don't try and fix it"

Ain't that the truth. I'm in the process of installing sights on a friend's TC muzzle loader and the cleanout screw is seized and the head buggered. In talking with him he is having no problems with it that way but it is SO tempting to fool with it.

AKArcher, thinking through each step before starting, and giving it a rethink when it doesn't go exactly as planned, is absolutely necessary or you will be learning from mistakes. (Guess how I know )

We had a retired machinist here that took up gunsmithing and was generous with his time and knowledge, and a helluva nice guy. I'd read the books but watching him actually do it made it all clear plus learning a trick or two. He's sadly missed. If you find a guy like this, don't pass up the opportunity.