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Or more correctly what functions dose the recoil lug have on accuracy?

Planning on adding a little bedding to an old birch stock Savage 110 in 7MM rem. And have not found the reasoning behind the gap or space the bedding should have around the recoil lug.

Thanks in advance!

Kevin


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Full contact on the rear surface perpendicular to the bore to resist the rearward force of recoil.

No contact on sides or forward perpendicular face to ease assembly/disassembly.

No contact on bottom to eliminate upward torque on bedding system from heat expansion or debris under lug.

Or something like that.


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That looks more like a Remington lug, the savage 110 has an indexing notch, but they do the same thing...

They are there to transfer recoil from the action to the stock, absorbing most of the energy there rather than incidental parts touching bedding and stock sides flexing outward.

There should not be any clearance on the rear of the lug. There should be clearance on the bottom of the lug to provide clearance in a broad range of ambient temperatures. Some give the sides some clearance to make it easier to take the action out of the bedding. Some also give clearance to the front of the lug.

I make clearance on the bottom only. The sides are easier to justify the logic on, but I still do not accept it. The action will not move side to side, regardless the room on the sides of the lug... However, the idea of making room forward of the lug really makes me wonder...
art


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To expand as we were obviously typing at the same time... Some actions can move forward a little bit in the bedding if the forward surface is not bedded tight... the Remingtons... Allowing them to work a little will allow them to wallow a little bit and once loose things will get looser...


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Thanks, that makes it a lot clearer.

Yes, the picture is not a Savage lug, picture shamelessly borrowed from the web.

What I think was making me question it's function, if it is touching the bedding, it seems that it would be very critical to point of impact.

This also takes away an idea i had if I made a couple of pillar blocks, my thoughts were to make a near zero tolerance block - screw fit,that would not allow the lug to set right.

Thanks!

Kevin


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If the lug isn't tight against the stock the rear tang screw will probably crack the stock.
The rifle won't shoot very consistently unless the action is properly bedded.


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Quote
The action will not move side to side, regardless the room on the sides of the lug...


But the action will twist in touque on firing.

Quote
However, the idea of making room forward of the lug really makes me wonder...


Clearance to assist in disassembling the action from the stock. Otherwise you could damage the bedding.

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See, there you go, differences of opinion on how it works... wink

I use bottom clearance only and have never had an issue. I have fixed problems repeatedly caused by forward clearance...the lug had worked itself "looser" and would not return 100% aft after each shot. Palpable increase in recoil...
art



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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
AJ
See, there you go, differences of opinion on how it works... wink

I use bottom clearance only and have never had an issue. I have fixed problems repeatedly caused by forward clearance...the lug had worked itself "looser" and would not return 100% aft after each shot. Palpable increase in recoil...
art



Thanks Art!

Having never bedded an action, my questions are far to basic i'm sure, thank you for putting up with them!

I am thinking that I can make it a very snug fit front and back, as the action just has to osculate, it makes sense. But that indexing tab on a Savage just has to go it seems, As a front and back flush-fit, it would bind.

I do have another idea, has anyone ever tried a softer type of bedding in the front of the lug?

Before there were other products available for horses hooves, we used RTV-Silicon gasket materials with a little regular bondo hardner mixed in to make them cure faster and set up harder. Now we use dental impression material, it sets up, but dose have some give.

The question...

Would bedding the front of the lug with something that would act as a vibration damper and cut down on the forward osculations be of a benefit?

I fully expect that this might not be an improvement in group size of a particulate worked up hand-load, but could it cut down the differences in point of impact between one size bullet to the next?


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It is pretty well accepted that the first 3/4" of the barrel should be supported by bedding.
I use electrical tape on the front of the lug to create a gap on the front. It is only a few thousandths of an inch thick.
As was previously mentioned there has to be enough clearance for assembly. Otherwise you could just epoxy it in there permanently
and hope you never need to work on the trigger.
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I am thinking that I can make it a very snug fit front and back, as the action just has to osculate, it makes sense. But that indexing tab on a Savage just has to go it seems, As a front and back flush-fit, it would bind.

Would bedding the front of the lug with something that would act as a vibration damper and cut down on the forward osculations be of a benefit?

"Osculate- v. os�cu�lat�ed, os�cu�lat�ing, os�cu�lates. v.tr. 1. To kiss."

I have too much sense for a JO scope mount job and I do not want anything rifle-related to "Kiss" me! wink

No, soft bedding compound is not the right idea. Getting it to stay with the package reduces vibration through mass-dampening. Allowing it to move would only introduce problems.

I always bed with no forward clearance and always get the rifles apart. SOme are a little tight and that is just fine with me. Mostly they are easily taken apart and it is a complete non-issue. I have a Tubbs lug on my 375AI and I believe it has a little draft ground in it from the start.
art


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Thanks! I am pretty sure that I am the worst speller on the site.
(for lack of a better word, I think I should have stuck with the word 'vibrate')

Yes, not worried about getting it apart, the idea of permanently gluing it in crossed my mind,

So you get this snug fit with just the relief of the release agent. or is there a trick to getting this closer?

Or am I totally over-engineering this and pour the bedding already?

Thanks, as I do want to do the best I can here.


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Just bed it, already! No rocket science needed. Just take it apart after the epoxy sets and before it cures fully. It will come apart much easier then. Put it back together and let it cure. No big secrets or voodoo needed...


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If you hit me with your hat now I'll be good!

Thanks!


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