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OP
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If a guy wanted to replace his factory recoil lug on a Remington 700 (during a build of course) was planning a using a ADL build and a Laminated stock, what after market recoil lug would he be best suited to purchase for best results if he wanted accuracy and dependability?
Why is one thickness offered over another?
What is the difference between going with a parallel v/s tapered?
Is one brand head and shoulders over another?
Just looking for general discussion b/c I'm as "lost as a rat's turd in a bucket of buck wheat" with respect to recoil lug differences and what they mean to me in the end...
Enjoying Each Sunrise...
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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The thicker ones are supposedly stiffer and often come drilled for a pin. Aftermarket lugs are supposed to be more dimensionally true and many are tapered for easy bedding with less likelihood of creating a mechanical lock. I've never run into a bedding issue with a factory lug but I use Holland's lug when possible. It pops in and out of bedding fairly easily.
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Campfire Tracker
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OP
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Are there any CONS to going thicker? Should one go as thick as possible?
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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I couldn't see any point in going thicker than .250" but the aftermarket will create whatever folks claim they "need".
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OP
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Can you explain the pinned aspect?
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Having the lug pinned to the receiver allows the lug to be removed and replaced in the exact same position, via the pin. Should you choose to swap barrels, the lug positioning will not be a problem in utilizing the bedded stock.
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Campfire Outfitter
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Can you explain the pinned aspect? Since M700 lugs are a separate "collar" arrangement, they can tend to spin just a hair when you tighten the barrel down, taking them out of plumb (straight down below the center of the barrel). Frustrating, and if off too far, could lock it into a glass bedding job. The pins are drilled into the face of the receiver, and go into corresponding little holes in the lug. Prevents them from moving. Handy, but they require precision drilling (don't do it with a handheld drill). They also make a nifty little jig that will hold it, or as most do, just scribe a small witness mark, and give it a try or two till the barrel snugs down and the lug is exactly where you want it.
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Campfire Tracker
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and last thing, JPro - you are the wikipedia of custom builds today... I appreciate you putting up with my repeated questions. I assure you, your help is very much appreciated and I hope this thread goes further to help other "green horns", like myself, answer questions that they have before diving head first into custom builds...
God Bless...
Enjoying Each Sunrise...
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Campfire Tracker
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Can you explain the pinned aspect? Since M700 lugs are a separate "collar" arrangement, they can tend to spin just a hair when you tighten the barrel down, taking them out of plumb (straight down below the center of the barrel). Frustrating, and if off too far, could lock it into a glass bedding job. The pins are drilled into the face of the receiver, and go into corresponding little holes in the lug. Prevents them from moving. Handy, but they require precision drilling (don't do it with a handheld drill). They also make a nifty little jig that will hold it, or as most do, just scribe a small witness mark, and give it a try or two till the barrel snugs down and the lug is exactly where you want it. Thanks for the note... Seems having it pinned would be wise.
Enjoying Each Sunrise...
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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Nothing wrong with a factory lug after it's surface ground, which should be part of the rebarrel process, along with the action work.
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Nothing wrong with a factory lug after it's surface ground, which should be part of the rebarrel process, along with the action work. I think my DONOR is going to need a little TLC or replacement of the lug... ![[Linked Image]](http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f121/Muscadine36269/Donor700_009.jpg)
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
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I use Holland lugs on all my rifles builds. The thicker lugs are supposed to flex less under recoil but that is debatable unless the rifle is a super magnum, the taper makes it easier to remove the action after glass bedding from the stock. If you are building a rifle the 30.00 dollar spent for a custom lug is well worth it, especially if you don't have a surface grinder available. Pin only if you plan on building a switch barrel rifle.
A Doe walks out of the woods today and says, that is the last time I'm going to do that for Two Bucks.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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and last thing, JPro - you are the wikipedia of custom builds today... I appreciate you putting up with my repeated questions. I assure you, your help is very much appreciated and I hope this thread goes further to help other "green horns", like myself, answer questions that they have before diving head first into custom builds...
God Bless... I'm no guru, but the folks here have always been nice enough to answer my questions. Share and share alike....
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Campfire Outfitter
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I think my DONOR is going to need a little TLC or replacement of the lug... I would NOT want to try to get that out of a fresh epoxy bedding!  You could try having it ground, but are probably better off trying to pick up a used factory lug, cheap, from guys that swap out to aftermarket lugs. Or check www.brownells.com for a good selection of various shapes, sizes, and thicknesses.
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Campfire Outfitter
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I use Hollands on all my builds, and .250 is the perfect thickness in my opinion,$ 30.00 well spent! good luck on your new project!!
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Joined: Aug 2005
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Campfire Outfitter
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My smith has been putting Hollands on mine. Would the factory lug work? Pretty sure it would be fine, but what the heck. Kind of like pillar bedding, might not need it, but it eliminates potential issues down the road.
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Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
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IMHO, the standard lug is ok up to a point, but if you're building a big boomer it would be wise to use something like the Holland lug..
Ex- USN (SS) '66-'69
Pro-Constitution.
LET'S GO BRANDON!!!
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OP
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IMHO, the standard lug is ok up to a point, but if you're building a big boomer it would be wise to use something like the Holland lug..
For $30 +/- it seems to be a non-issue now that I know more about what they do, how they do it and what the differences are.
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Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
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One last thought to consider....
The thicker lugs, for the most part, rule out buying any factory or custom take off tubes for a switch barrel gun in the future w/o work.
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One last thought to consider....
The thicker lugs, for the most part, rule out buying any factory or custom take off tubes for a switch barrel gun in the future w/o work. Ah... Good point... Hope once this one is built that I don't have to switch barrel any time soon though...
Enjoying Each Sunrise...
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