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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
I finally have achieved the same velocity as factory ammo in my 41 mag Ruger using 210 gr bullets.I had to go considerably over book maximum to get there but I'm satisfied that pressure is not exceeding factory ammo.<P>Now,if I readjust my crimp die to load different brass and primers for my Taurus,and then back for the Ruger,do I need to start over with less powder?<P>------------------<BR>Boone and Crockett was rednecks


Never holler whoa or look back in a tight place
GB1

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,092
Campfire Tracker
Campfire Tracker
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,092
Gene, buddy...it is my understanding that pressure signs are often nonexistant in revolvers. They let you know when they have had enough by loosening up, or worse, by dividing themselves into pieces. I sure would be careful about those loads that are considerably over max listings. As I have said elsewhere, I tend to shoot mostly mild mid-range or less loads in mine, so the following is simply a guess.<P>As far as the crimp goes, I don't really know, but I would assume that a tighter crimp would increase pressures and if you are working over max, I would at least back off a little when I changed anything. Be careful out there.


"When we put [our enlisted men and women] in harm's way, it had better count for something. It can't be because some policy wonk back here has a brain fart of an idea of a strategy that isn't thought out." General Zinni on Iraq





















Joined: Mar 2001
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E
Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
E Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 18,881
This is a subject that I always try to jump in on. I back what If It Flys says 100%. Revolvers, and pistols, don't give you the clues that your in excessive pressure country like rifles do. I've found that even rifles don't do that reliably. When I develop loads for handguns I never stray from published data. I've only been reloading for about 43 yrs., and I've been a "gun nut", even longer. I've watched lots of others load for their pet handguns. I've listen to people brag for years how their .45 Colt will equal, or beat, my Smith .44 Magnum. Or how their Ruger will beat my Smith. Yawn. Well, I'll tell you something. My Smith has had almost 15,000 rds. through it. All of them near, or at, factory pressures. Most of it double action. I had a gunsmith check it not long ago. It's fine. It still shoots 6 MOA groups with factory soft points. My buddys .45 Colt ? Oh, it doesn't work so well. My other buddys .44 Mags ? Well, when they could, they got'em fixed. Some of them were junk, and got trashed. A shooter, or two, lost a chunk of finger, etc. Need I go on ? I know. Handguns aren't as powerful as we would like them to be. That's why the magnums are so popular. Then come the folks that say the various bullet/powder companys are whimps, and fear lawsuits, etc. They tell you that you can go over the recommended loads because they have done it, and it works fine, etc. Yeah, I know. Heck, when the manufactures proof test their guns, and all them must be proof tested, they fire over loads in them to make sure they will hold up. They do, or they can't be sold. They fire stuff that 50%, and 100% over what's considered maximum. You can too. But not for long. Enough said ? E.

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
I appreciate your concern,Erimicus.If you check out the "Does anyone shoot the 41 anymore"you can see some good info on this cartridge.The one thing I didn't find out- and still dont know- is how much a deeper crimp contributes to pressure.<P>One thing I've learned about reloading for handguns vs rifles or shotguns { been doing that since 1965 } is that recoil is a more reliable indicator of increased pressure.When my reloads give noticably less recoil,and my chrono shows 200 fps less velocity,and I'm comparing them to same weight bullets in two factory loadings,I'm not concerned about moving up gradually to a load another more experienced shooter says is working for him.<P>When there is much difference in published data,which book do you suggest using?And when you get different results than the book you decide to follow,what then?<P>All things in moderation,and that includes caution.<P>------------------<BR>Boone and Crockett was rednecks


Never holler whoa or look back in a tight place
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 18,881
E
Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
E Offline
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 18,881
Yeah, Gene it's a delima. There is an excellent discussion in Speer's No. 12 manuel about how much handguns vary as to velocity, chamber dimensions, etc. Even guns of the same manufacture can vary a fair amount. Not the sort of thing that instill confidence when you charge off on your own. My only advice concerning crimp would be to start on known, no question, safe ground and work up. Actually, I've found that muzzle report is a pretty good indicator of higher/close to the edge pressures. When it get noticably sharper your there, or too far. Have fun. E

IC B2

Joined: Feb 2001
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Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2001
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Much obliged,E.As it turns out,I picked up a HODGENS brochure and it lists a powder,lilgun,made just for 41 bore.It shows highest velocity with low pressure.I'm going to get some of it so I have to start over anyhow.<P>Interesting that the brochure says "dont reduce the load shown for H 110 by more than 3%.It happens that the load shown is already over max for the Hornady manual,and a 3% reduction still leaves it over max.{ this is from memory,but I think it's true!]<P>Contradictions like that are what makes it so nice to have a place like this to get other ideas from real folks.<P>I suspect that a crimp has little to do with pressure but I'm taking no chances until I know for sure.I've loaded for my 45 70 for 20 plus years and never gave it a thought.


Never holler whoa or look back in a tight place
Joined: May 2001
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E
Campfire Greenhorn
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 29
Gene,<P>Your question on crimp affecting pressure certainly has merit.<P>If a crimp is used on rifle cartridges, the result is usually lousy accuracy unless the cases are all the same make, age (# of firings) and all trimmed to exactly the same length.<P>This is due to the looser bullets having lower start pressures, and thus less velocity.<P>Friction-fit is the way to go, most times, unless an AR-15 or other auto is used, then the Factory Crimp is called for to keep the bullet from being forced back into the case. Again, uniformity is a must.<P>With handgun rounds, the same principle seems to apply, but it is less pronounced due to shorter barrels and faster powders. Mostly the problem is having your revolver slugs scoot out past the end of the cylinder, thus binding the action.<P>With auto pistols, even a small setback of the bullet can drastically increase pressures. A Taper Crimp is what I use here.<P>What concerns me about your post is that the factory ammo is likely using powder you cannot get in component form, possibly even a mixed charge. If I were you, I would try Lil Gun or Power Pistol, and the like, to attempt the same speeds at lower pressures. LG is supposed to be custom-made for this purpose.<P>And yes, you will need to work the load up in each gun, unless you want to change your handle to Stumpy! [Linked Image]<P>Good shooting,<P>Jonesey<BR>

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
Campfire Ranger
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 24,239
Jonesey,I'm much obliged.I'll post on here how the lilgun powder works out.My idea is to try and find a load that works in the Taurus and then use it in the RUGER,too.<P>I dont mind giving up something in velocity in the ruger to get interchangeability.It may not work out that way.<P>------------------<BR>Boone and Crockett was rednecks


Never holler whoa or look back in a tight place

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